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E-27 Wet Deck Core

I recently drilled a through deck hole to install a fresh water deck fill. When I drilled the hole I observed that the balsa core (particularly the forward facing part of the hole) was very damp. Soft to the point I could clean out some of it with my finger. As part of the project I'm replacing the waste pump out as well and when I removed it the core was very damp there as well (however I wasn't surprised at that one). My intention is to do the whole overdrill-epoxyfill-redrill-thing but I'm very curios why the core around the new hole is wet. There are no deck openings anywhere near the new hole. Perhaps the core all over the deck is wet (which cannot be good). I'm not aware and have not noticed any soft spots in any of the deck. I'd be interested in any and all thoughts or ramblings on this. Here are some particulars -

1. The hole is 1.5 inches in diameter.
2. It is placed on the exact opposite side of the boat from the waste pump out (incase anyone is familiar with the layout).
3. The hole is 3 inches inboard of the toe rail.
4. The hole is approx. 14 inches forward of the the forward chain plate.
5. Water drains off the deck aft of the location where the hole is drilled.
6. The nearest deck mounting or hole forward of the hole is a stanchion mount approx 18 inches forward of the new hole.
7. The coach roof has a small port light but it is aft of the new hole by approx. 7 inches (and thus "downhill").
8. The boat has been in a dry garage since October.
9. The boat is a 1977 model.
 

treilley

Sustaining Partner
Balsa can wick moisture which allows it to migrate from the original entry point. Most likely coming from a nearby portlight that has been leaking into the core. Get a moisture meter to help find the source.

BTW, wet decks do not always feel soft.
 

stuartm80127

Member II
E27 Wet core

On My E27 which I am almost done restoring I had a similar problem with rotted core 1 foot from forward pulpit mounts aft and then another 2 feet of wet core before it went dry. You have to dry out the wet core (else it rots) and remove rotting core by cutting out top deck glass layer to access it(yuk) or fully drying and then injecting something like rot doctor epoxy into the delaminated/rotting areas(double yuk). Don't try the 1/4" hole trick in the topsides as mentioned by Don Casey in his book(as did I) unless you are willing to paint your deck(a lesson learned) or are good at gelcoat matching. In my case, the leaks were caused by the stanchion bases and the cleats and along the beam by the leaky chainplate covers. I had drilled 6 to 8 1 inch holes inside of the deck by removing the wood trim in the v berth area and then accessing the bottom of the deck. After 6 mos of drying with a heater and fan inside the boat, I drilled a couple of 1/4" holes topside to verify things were dry. When Dry, I covered the holes inside using several layers of biaxial cloth and West epoxy. Then around each cleat screw hole I drilled a 3/4" hole through the top layer of deck through the core, if any. I then filled with thickened catsup-consistency West epoxy and colloidal silica (I think 403). When cured, Drilled the hole through the middle for the screw and bedded with 3m101 including the sides of the bolts to make completely waterproof. Did same around chainplate areas and then sealed with 3m-101 too.
 
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