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Ericson 41 Florida - Norway

sveinutne

sveinutne

Member III
Thanks Sven :egrin:,
Just a question about hull number. I see a lot of people in this forum mention their boats hull number. How can I find the hull number on my Ericson 41? Is the hull numbers from Ericson using only one series, or can there be several boats with the same hull number like hull #1 for the first Ericson 41 and hull #1 for the fist Ericson 39?<O:p</O:p
 
treilley

treilley

Sustaining Partner
Each model has it's own sequence. This is Pre-HIN requirements so check on the insides of cabinets and under the sole. Lots of time they labeled the components with the hull number before they installed them.
 
G

gareth harris

Sustaining Member
One technique for tracing sources of water intrusion is to get a package of food dye at a supermarket, pour a different colour at each of the potential entry points, and then see which colour comes into the boat. The tent sounds like a very good idea - Ericsons were built in California, where annual rainfall is about equivalent to a good month in Norway, so water intrusion did not receive all that much consideration in the design.

The only place my hull number was written was on the back of the cushions for the seat backs of the main salon, and it was just the three digits 241, so keep any eye out on the boat for such a number written anywhere.

Gareth
Freyja E35 #241 1972
 
E

Emerald

Moderator
It must feel very good to have her at home and after so much uncertainty. It will be good to see her restoration progress. You know we expect many pictures ;)
 
sveinutne

sveinutne

Member III
I have not managed to find the hull # yet, but I had a visit from a professional fiberglass boat builder today, and he looked it over. Most of the right side over the waterline will have to be sanded down and repainted. Before I start this work I need to know if the boat is build of epoxy or polyester, so I use the right components. The V-drive is almost loose, but the is one bolt I can not get out, so I need to think how I can get it out.
 
treilley

treilley

Sustaining Partner
HIN requirements started in 1972 in the US.

I believe the Ericson boats were all Polyester resin. Epoxy is more expensive and rarely used in production boats.
 
sveinutne

sveinutne

Member III
Sven said:
Svein,



There isn't a long molded in number near the upper starboard edge or corner of the transom ?

Maybe that was introduced later.



-Sven
Click to expand...

Should this be on the outside or inside? I will try to look tonight if I get home before dark. Every Wednesday we have a sailing race, and today is almost no wind, so it might take some time to finish.;)
 
sveinutne

sveinutne

Member III
treilley said:
HIN requirements started in 1972 in the US.

I believe the Ericson boats were all Polyester resin. Epoxy is more expensive and rarely used in production boats.
Click to expand...

If it is made of Polyester, I think I can use both, but if it was made of Epoxy it should only be repaired with new Epoxy if I have understood it right.
Did some sanding on the right side yesterday, and the bobles and cracks are not so deap, and there were still some Polyester left before the fiberglass when the cracks were sanded away. It looks like the hull has a very thick layer of Polyester, so that might save me and the boat.
 
G

Glyn Judson

Moderator
Moderator
Hull number location.

Sven and all, I'm not familiar with the start date of hull numbers being required on the transom, but I do know that all E31's had them there in the upper right corner. That said, several E31's have no trace of the numbers there, I presume due to previous damage and repairs in the area, etc. For a handful of owners who didn't know their hull number and who asked me, I was able to accurately tell them based on my records showing hull numbers before and after theirs. Is it possible to do the same with the E39? I wonder if anyone is keeping records of that nature? Glyn, ERY31X55M79I
 
sveinutne

sveinutne

Member III
Did some test sanding today and found that most of the cracks are just in the top layer. Most cracks are less then 1 mm deep, and only some are maybe more then 2 mm deep.
Did also remove the V-drive. It was almost as hard as taking out the engine. All the bolts had to be grinned down. The two bolts I had manage to loosen, but did not remove, had to be cut too. Looked for the hull#, but it was not to see anywhere I could think off. The six windows that can be opened need new rubber to be water proof, but I do not know where I can order it. I think I will have to remove the windows and sandblast the frame to get it back to old glory.
 

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G

gareth harris

Sustaining Member
The listing for the boat is no longer on ebay, but my memory is that it mentioned work on the hull at one point - have you kept a printout of the description to see if that is correct? It may well be that you have epoxy as an outer layer on the hull below the waterline, which is common in hull work as it is less prone to blister than polyester.

When I was thinking of buying Heart of Gold I had the same idea of standing the boat on my front lawn, which would have become a rather dominant feature of the neighbourhood; so I laughed out loud when I saw your picture.

Gareth
Freyja E35 #241 1972
 
sveinutne

sveinutne

Member III
Gareth,
Most of the sanding will be above waterline, and I will use polyester on that, but there are also some spots below waterline I will look at, and if I do any work below waterline, I will use epoxy on that part.
The bow is missing part of the railing on the last two feet, and I wonder if some got a picture on how the bow should be, so I know what to get? I am also thinking of putting in a room for the anchor chain and maybe an electric windlass at the bow, but I am not sure there will be room for it, because of the second Genoa.
 
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G

gareth harris

Sustaining Member
I am trying to do the same job in building an anchor locker for my boat. With such a pointly bow it is hard to find the space for everything, but I have placed the roller just to port of the forestay, to a windlass (which I have not yet installed) which will be aft of the rest of the hardware such as cleats, genoa hardware etc. By keeping it to port of the centreline it will not interfere with the sails.

The rail (sometimes known as the 'pulpit' due to its shape) will be the last addition, built to fit around everything else - you can have that built however you want it.

I have built a base to the anchor locker out of 3/4" thermolite with a drain to a new through hull just above the waterline, meanwhile the aft of the locker is a new bulkhead just forward of the V berth. I expect there would be room for the same on the E41.

The only drawback is the extra weight in the bow, but it would be possible to remove the anchor and rode for racing.

Gareth
Freyja E35 #241 1972
 
sveinutne

sveinutne

Member III
I bought an Autohelmet ST4000 from a member here. To my surprise there was a ST4000 instrument next to the engine instruments, but it was not in working condition, so I think I will now try to install the used ST4000. The instrument is easy to mount, but the black wheel; I am not sure where to put. If there is an installation manual online, it would help, so I do not make any mistakes.
There is also something wrong with the rudder. When I turn to right is turns smooth, but when I turn to the left, it is makes some vibrating you can feel in the whole boat. Maybe I need to take out the rudder and put in a Teflon film to make it turn smooth both ways?
 
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