• Untitled Document

    Join us on March 29rd, 7pm EST

    for the CBEC Virtual Meeting

    All EYO members and followers are welcome to join the fun and get to know the guest speaker!

    See the link below for login credentials and join us!

    March Meeting Info

    (dismiss this notice by hitting 'X', upper right)

Chainplate E 26 II

stobias

"Alibi"
I have an E26 (1987). The chainplate for the starboard main shroud has a leak. The starboard is the one that does not employ rod to the hull, but has flat plates thru-bolted to the main bulkhead. The bulkhead is in turn bolted to the grid at the settee and floor. I didn't realize, that for a time, water was dripping down the bulkhead plate, down the bulkhead, and collecting at the bottom of the bulkhead, probably causing the beginnings of rot.
I can't get the headliner zipper to budge, so I assume that I can remove the framing at the face of the bulkhead and this will release the vinyl. I hope that I will be able to gain access to the forward most nuts, because they are on the other side of the bulkhead, in the head.
Does anyone know if the inverted u's that stick up out the deck, are welded (or otherwise sealed) to the deck plates? Someone, in an older post mentioned a penetrating sealent that can be flowed under the plates. Will this keep the water out? I am hoping not to have to do surgery to actually raise the deck plates! This looks like a real pain!
Also, I can see how, on the other side of the boat, the rod is integrated into the underside deck plates (aluminum), because that side's zipper works! How does the flat plate on the leaking starboard) side join the chainplate?
 

SurabyaKid

Member III
I can't answer your chainplate question, but I did have the same problem as you with my headliner zippers. I noticed a buildup of white gunk in the zipper, and I think this is what caused mine to freeze.

I was able to free them by first spraying a directed spray of a rust buster (using a rag to keep off the headliner) directly into the front and back of the zipper. I let that sit for about 10 minutes and then followed up by spraying with silicon track lube.

I then just started working back and forth with gentle pressure and was able to get all mine working again. I finished by a silicon lube after getting them open and now do a complete zip unzip about once a month and have no problems.

I think the zippers need to be exersized just like through hull valves on a regular basis.

Pat
"Pronto"
1988 E26
 

Emerald

Moderator
I had a zipper that just would not let go, and I used a jeweler's flat blade type screwdriver to gently work apart the zipper slide, which was really shot from corrosion. I removed the slide completely and bought (well wife bought...:))a generic zipper repair kit at JoAnn's Fabric, from which I was able to pick out a matching slide and have a working zipper again.

You will probably find the headliner has a couple million tiny rusting staples securing the edges, and will have to remove some around the end of the zipper to get the slide on and off if you do replace it.
 

Mike V

Junior Member
I have a 1987 E26 as well. My headliner does not have any zippers at all. The only way to access the chain plates is to unfold the plastic headliner trim and remove the staples. I had to remove about three feet of staples so i could view and get my hands inside. My chainplates appear to be dry and very clean. I do not have any leaks that i can see, i was more curious than anything to inspect them. I am currently trying to decide if I should leave it alone or remove and re caulk while i am inside. It did not take me very long to remove the staples so i may just put it back for now. I would be interested in seeing any pics that you have. Next time I am at my boat i will take a few pictures and post so you can compare.

Mike
 

Jeff Asbury

Principal Partner
Don't know if this applies to a E-26 but on my 1973 E-27 I recently sealed leaks on all six of my shroud chain plates. Much easier than I thought it would be. There is a stainless steel, rectangular cover over each chain plate on the deck with two screws on each cover. I just un screwed them and then I had to carefully pry them up. With out disconnecting the shrouds I was able to lift up the covers just enough to dig out the old calking. I then cleaned them out with a little acetone and re bed them with Boatlife calking. Boatlife drys much quicker than 3M 4200 by the way.

Then I also removed the panels below decks and inspected them, found some rust around one shroud chain plate. I cleaned the areas around where the chain plates are glassed into the hull. I used soap, fresh water and then Ospho that is a liquid that stops corrosion, kind of like Naval Jelly. I then sealed the chain plates under the deck where they come through as well as where they are glassed into the hull with Boatlife.

No more leaks. I just got around to it this year. I should have done it years ago because I used to get quite a bit of water collecting below the chain plates after the few big rains we have here in LA.

http://www.ospho.com/

http://www.boatlife.com/
 
Last edited:
Top