E-38 Cutlass bearing

Happy New Year all!

I tried to do a search on this, but didn't find it. Anyway, does anyone know the correct size Cutlass bearing I need for my 1982 E-38? I measured 5 1/2" long x 1 1/4 OD, does that sound correct? Also, I don't find any set screws in the strut, is that correct? Should I go ahead and try to press it out.

I've been searching on line for a new bearing, but can only find a 6" long, I guess I can just cut it down, or is there 5 1/2" long available somewhere?

Thanks,
Don

Cutless bearings are sized to your shaft. With a 1 1/4" bearing OD, do you have a 7/8" shaft perhaps?

Some struts have setscrews, some don't. (My 32 with a 3/4" shaft has none.) If yours doesn't, don't worry, there's plenty of friction in the press fit.

If your shaft is out I wouldn't press the old fitting out. Just cut it, it'll take 1/4 the time--you'll find out then if there's a setscrew.

You can find bearings online for much, much less than West Marine sells them.

There's quite a bit on the forum about this process. Tom Metzger put of pictures of his press, which he used to get his bearing off without removing the shaft from the engine.

I replaced mine this year, with the shaft out. I have a 1" shaft and I think it is the 1-1/4 strut diameter. The previous owner had installed a 6" but did not cut it down, so it stuck out the aft end of the strut. The 6" is only available from one of the two outfits I checked out. The one I installed is the 4" and it is flush with the aft end of the strut. It is the Duramax brand.

The old bearing was extremely hard to get out and there was no set screw. I added a set screw, but it really wasn't necessary right now. The replacement groaned quite a bit when it was forced in.

The brand I installed isn't very close tolerance around the shaft and the shaft is still a few thousandths thicker than 1". I hope I don't get a knock when changing from Fwd to Rev. The old bearing actually dragged on the shaft fairly significantly. Whether that was the design or from age and swelling, I don't know.

If you can find or fabricate a press to press it out, I would advise that approach - and good luck. We ended up cutting and curling and bashing mine out. I was a little fearful of strut damage from cutting or bashing, but after the old one was out we saw a significant number of cuts from previous removals. The strut is fine.

Cheers,

Thanks, I removed the bearing yesterday in the snow storm. My prop shaft is also out so, I elected to cut it out also, using a kingpin saw, I think that's what my buddy called it. It's basically a hack saw. I've done this before, on my previous boats, I was just was unsure about the no set screw thing. Everyone I spoke with told me it has to have set screws, but it does not. It was just pressed in. I'm wondering if a little locktite was used.

Also there was two pieces of cutlass bearing in there, one was 4" the other was 1/12" to make up the 5 1/2". I'm not sure if Ericson did this or not but it worked just fine.

I think I'm going to go with a 6" and cut it down to 5 1/2" and if the press fit is nice and tight go without the set screws.

You don't really need to cut the bearing down, it's fine if it hangs out of the forward end of the strut by half an inch. Or the back end, if it doesn't interfere with the prop -- but it will definitely be OK if it hangs out the forward end of the strut.

Once you start cutting it, you risk perturbing the bond between the rubber center and the bronze shell--by heat, by tearing, or by otherwise subjecting the rubber part to forces it wasn't designed to accommodate.

I cut mine down from the 6" about 4 years ago no worries so far, but I don't think I would bother next time.

e38-200 cutlass removal

I have just started pressing the cutlass bearing on my e38. It has proven much more difficult to press out than I expected. I have a jig created to press it out and it started to push it through towards the aft. It has pushed about a 1/4" in on the forward end of the struc, but it is not coming out the other end. It seems like it is crumpling up inside the strut and pinching the shaft (The shaft cannot spin now). My initial thought is that the cutlass is a softer metal so I would just keep on pushing. It was darn cold so I stopped to give it more thought.

So ... Is this normal? If I just keep pushing can I damage the shaft? If I keep pushing will it put pressure on the coupling (since the shaft is pinched) and potential damage the connection to the trans? I am glad to hear others have not seen set screw as this was my first thought. Thoughts??

I'd take a wire wheel and get all the paint off the strut. It sounds as though you've got a setscrew in there that's gumming up the process. When I've done this (without a shaft and without a setscrew) progress has been slow but steady.

I wouldn't worry about the transmission coupling too much. The set screw is a really good thought, but if there is no set screw then I think you should get the shaft out of the way. Just what you wanted to avoid. You probably haven't hurt the shaft, but the pinch you've got now is not going to get better.

These things are incredibly hard to get out sometimes, as other threads on the board will tell you. Don't forget to ask the yard for help. Most of the foremen and supervisors are experienced and have seen us DIY-ers get into a little trouble now and then. Might cost you a few bucks, but you might avoid a larger bill by getting some help. Good luck - sure hope it warms up for you.

(I expect you'll be wanting to get out and sail around a few icebergs this spring, too.)

e38-200 cutlass and a bunch of other stuff removal

Well, I managed to get the cutlass out and a whole pile of other stuff. After much effort on the cutlass we decided the best bet was, as others indicated, to remove the shaft. The coupling looked pretty corroded. We used a grinder to remove the coupling bolts with a bit of time but not much pain. One step led to another and we ended up with the engine out. Once we had the coupling broken I figured it was just as well to do a thorough job of it. In hind sight it was pretty painless. I removed the shaft, cleaned it up and had it checked for true rotation. The couple cleaned up nicely, engine mounts cleaned up and repainted, engine compartment cleaned up, stuffing inspected and replaced, engine cleaned and painted, inspect control cables, hoses etc.

In the end the thing that ended up being the most work, was the darn thing that started the whole business. Even with the shaft out, there was 4 hours of cutting pulling, prying and swearing just to get the cutlass bearing out.

For anyone else that would consider this route, it is not that difficult, however, putting it all back together and cleaning it up did take a couple of friends with various peices of equipment, such as a lathe that can turn a full steel shaft and reform some other things like retapping, making small steel parts, etc. We were able to complete the whole thing in a few days, but only because I had stuff made up pretty easily. If you cannot make up parts from steel then make sure you have good access to parts. Most of the stuff I needed are not readily available, at least around here. It also helps to have some good knowledgable friends.

All done now, and if nothing else I am more familiar with the boat and a couple of friends, given the tight spaces I spent with the other guy.