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Yanmar 2YM15 Going IN!

skipper007

Member II
It has been almost a year since my big overhaul of the steering quadrant in our 1974 E32-2. Steering is working great now. We thought we were done until......Blown engine!

We pulled the Yanmar 2GM20 Raw water out to replace what we thought was a bad head gasket. Well it was bad, but one piston had seen water at some point and the gear and cam assemblies were amazingly rusted AND the fuel injector pump was toast as well. Rebuild cost (after we pulled the motor AND disassembled it) was about $4500. OUCH.

So we got a great deal on a new Yanmar 2YM15 ($5300 fully upgraded/delivered, not including tax). Went with the 15 instead of the 3YM20 because the length of the 20 would have caused problems. Went Yanmar again mainly because the port to starboard motor mount separation matched (16" I believe) and fit our existing engine bed. Kubotas and Volvos required another inch plus.

I have some questions, if you could lend a hand.....
1) What oil? Amsoil reads well, but Delo 400 seems to win popularity. San fran area - 15-40? or straight 30?
2) Does anyone know if the 2GM20 Fram Oil Filter (PH3593A) fits the 2YM15? Any cross reference for this new engine?
3) What diesel lubricant do you use for the injector pump?

And I have a huge basket of 2GM20 parts if someone needs something, give me a holler.

Skipper007
 

skipper007

Member II
Talking to myself

Here are some photos to spice it up.
The bottom of the 2YM15. Line is only a safety.....

1. I have bought Delo400 SAE 30; Awaiting Yanmar dealer approval.
2. The Fram does fit although the outter diameter is larger. Yanmar cross references the 2GM20 to the new narrower filter that the 2YM15 uses. It should fit. Photo shows slightly larger diameter.
3. I'll ask BlueJacket.....(again)....
 

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Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Not aware of any sort of special lube for a fuel injector pump...
The filtered diesel fuel going to it and thru it takes care of all lubrication.
Sump lube oil for our Universal diesel engine is indeed Delo 400. http://www.chevrondelo.com/en/products/engineoil/default.asp
Interesting info a ways down this web page -- it now is available in synthetic.
(Never seen that version for sale, but then I only buy a new case of gallons every few years...)

FWIW, here's a prior lube oil thread: http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?t=4058&referrerid=28

Loren
 
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amaxopulos

Member I
Pictures Please

I am very interested in your project as I to am looking to repower my 71 32ft. Is it everything you imagined or would you of done something different and did it fit into the stair hole going into the engine compartment. Did you have to do any modifications and how do you like the engine performance. And why not a Kubota that is what i have in mine now. Thanks Alex
 

skipper007

Member II
Thanks for joining!

Loren, I'm finding out the oil addititve. As I recall it is something like 1TSP per 100 Gallons or something. Blue Jacket is an old truck driver turned tug boat live aboard.

Alex, The actual prep and removal of the engine was like 2 days prep and 1 day haul. Then we polished the diesel using the existing fuel primary with a 3 micron filter, jabsco drill pump, and a 5 gallon can, 1 day. Cleaned and painted the bilge, 1 day. Putting the new one back in has been way longer.

Main issues with a repower are, in no particular order:
  • You have to drill new holes for the motor mounts. Very tough with an engine in every available inch. Maybe a template would have been smarter. MackBoring sells one for some engines. Looks like a great idea. A 90 degree drill with very short bits would (have) be superb.
  • The engine throttle cable doesn't match up - need to redesign the holder.
  • The engine panel doesn't match up, the new one is smaller.
  • The water feed to the engine is larger.
  • The exhaust is in a different location. Redesign required.
Basically - the diesel requires air, water, fuel, and electrons. We've completed the exhaust and water. Need to finish fuel and electrons. Each system has it's unique installation challenges.

But it can be done by the DIY. And it saves at least 40-50% of the cost.

I'd have gone Beta/Kubota, but our engine bed was designed for Yanmar. You have to be very very careful about clearances. Get the mechanical drawings of any and all engines you are considering. As I recall the Kubota required at least 1-2" more width on the engine bed. We didn't have it. That would have added a day or two to the project. For us time at the boat is the premium more than anything else except money. The engine bed was also the reason we went again with a 2 cylinder instead of the 3 cylinder Yanmar. For the 3YM we would have need another 2 inches of length we didn't have.

Til, I'm not sure I believe the dealers explanation of the deal. It was they were doing inventory (mid November) and wouldn't have to count it. But how hard is it to count an engine? I think economic slow down - blow it out! I was given < 2 weeks to decide. A very nasty time clock. My source was Stockton, CA Yanmar dealer through BoatSwains in Southern Cali.

A few more pictures. I'll let the pictures speak for themselves.
MacGyver on the safety watch.

Lesson Learned: GET AN ENGINE SURVEY BEFORE YOU BUY!
But what fun would life be if everyone was born so smart.....
Skip
 

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Matey

Member III
Engine removal

Skip,

Wow .. pictures do tell a tale. You're smart enough to be putting a new diesel in before summer ! That will be a nice set-up

I had an engine survey done on the Atomic 4 in the E32-2 I bought in December, had $3200- in receipts for engine repairs & maint. from the last year, monitored the motor closely during my 70 mile transit from Alameda to the Delta for winter repairs and still blew a head gasket 5 miles from the finish. Stuff occurs ..
As my motor appears to have been re-built 200 hrs. ago I'm ready to pull the old girl out of the boat to replace the head gasket and go thru it in the comfort of my garage. I'll likely replace the very corroded engine beds in the process.

I've read all the threads I could find here and on the Moyer forum on pulling the engine and I'm still nervous about yanking it with the boom as I see you've done. The stock 32 boom seems pretty skinny. Did you have any issues .. do you have any pointers .. or addl. pictures that might help me out ? I'd be much appreciative. I have the cabinetry out and am ready to pull it.

When the engine went .. I was very grateful to just pull up the jib along with the main I was motor sailing with and sail to the marina to finish up the trip !

Regards, Greg
gregrohde@gmail.com
 

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skipper007

Member II
Use the boom!@?

Hey Greg,
After giving it many sleepless hours of engineering considerations we decided to use the boom. The engine isn't too heavy, < 250lbs and for us pulling probably <200lbs since we had torn all the accessories off.

A couple of general recommendations. One, always have a safety - a secondary that could carry some if not all of the load weight; it may at least slow it down. Two - use a V configuration to "walk" the engine back aft on the boom. Three, 2 person minimum, 3 people at the critical drop it on the dock moment. A 4th person could take pictures. I have none because I didn't have a volunteer. :confused:

We broke the engine loose from the motor mounts and jacked it up using a Honda car jack on a 2x6 in the bilge. We blocked with 4x4s between the motor mounts so that we could slide the engine forward 2" or so and then drop the mounts down on the 4x4s.

To lift we used a fore/aft arrangement with the tie-down straps as lifters/ratchets/come-alongs. We marked them with F and A to indicate so that we could independently adjust the fore and aft lift. These were combined in one large D ring and then attached to a third tie-down strap. Basically we had an inverted Y and we could lift ALL or just fore or just aft of the engine.

The biggest trick was getting it past the sink. You need to come forward off the mounts. Port 2" to clear the sink and then forward again about 8" to clear the cockpit. ONce you get there you can lift up. It was tricky, but with a couple well positiioned 2x4s and the car jack and an engine that isn't too heavy it can be done. We did dent our sink with the primary fuel filter.

Once it was dangling in the cabin off the boom, we raised it to clear the compainionway step. Then I created a triple harness to walk it back to the end of the boom. Basically I split the distance from where it hung to the aft Tang of the boom and added two straps. So I had 3 straps total. One aft, one mid, one foreward. The One foreward was used to pull it up past compainionway. Attach Mid to D ring and tighten to pull toward aft of boom. Tighten Mid and loosen foreward until forward is slack. Then attach Aft to D ring and repeat until the engine as at the end of the boom.

Then lift the engine. The aft lift strap was the boom vang inverted so you can pull down to lift. I attached the shackle to the boom tang (metal piece at the end with the main sheet and topping lift). For the safety I attached the main halyard directly to the shackle. Then the boom vang was tightened until it will clear of lifelines/winches etc. Swing boom and quickly drop to the furniture dolly with a 4x4 sled mounted. This step can really use 3 people. One on the Vang, one as the engine stabilizer/driver, one positioning the dolly.

A couple of lessons learned.
1. When you get the boom swung over the boat really wants to heel over. In your slip watch your angle and your neighbors rigging. We quickly went and tightened the opposing aft dock line to try and stabilize the boat some.

2. Make sure the straps around the boom are tight to begin with. Tie a bowline or something so that it won't tighten and drop the engine down as you are pulling it up. The distances are tight. The Y and 2 ratchets and the D ring are probably 2' in height total and this consumes valuable height you need to clear the compainionway

3. The tie down straps aren't really made for lifting, but they have less height profile than a typical come-along. We had both but used the tie downs because they were shorter and the Y was already long. They are ok for tightening, but loosening is very tricky. We had one break under this pressure and the loosening isn't very controlled.

One other thought - we had one (the 4th) tie down attached to the mast to gie us a pull vector. This was used as our safety to make sure the engine didnt slide aft.

Another thought - Our boom is not original, it was replaced by the PO.

Sorry this is rambling on and on and on. I spent 9 hours doing exhaust plumbing, electrical wiring, motor mount tightening, fuel bleeding etc etc today. PM me and we could setup a phone call. I'd be happy to discuss it with you.

Good luck and be safe!

Skip
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Heave Ho!

Skip, Great narrative and, for me, a little trip down memory lane...
Several years ago I was part of a "labor gang" that removed an old 3 cylinder Pieces (actually a marinized Isuzu from the 70's) along with the V-drive from a friend's big cutter.
We used the boom as a gin pole, also. No threat to the boom, as we secured the main halyard to the same point on the boom as the tie point for the chain lift device. Actually, the old goose neck was probably more at risk, FWIW.

And even a 17000# boat can heal quick... quite a bit ... when we slung about 400# of reluctant diesel engine over to the dock! :rolleyes:

One of the guys took some pictures of the gang of 6 or 7 of us pushing this ancient diesel monster up a long steep ramp on a pallet. Guys in front with ropes, rollers underneath, and guys in back pushing. Whenever I meet one of that "elite" group nowadays for coffee we still joke about our day of portraying "Egyptians" reenacting pyramid building! :)
 
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skipper007

Member II
Chalk it up to life's experience

Our attitude has been we can do it. Why not - it isn't rocket science, but we do have some engineering and mechanical backgrounds to pull from.

Funny - the picture of the gang pushing the engine down the dock. We got some strange looks from a couple of folks. We joked with them - "we thought we'd take it home to change the oil" or "we're just taking her out for a stroll and some fresh air, it is good for the engine!".

I can now look back fondly at the engine pulling. It was so easy! The installation of the new engine isn't that it is hard, it just has so many more little problems i.e. Why did they put the control for the throttle there?

All that is left is mounting the engine panel and refilling fluids. We should start this week - if I can find time to get to her! Hooray. But I'm waiting eagerly for the first rotation of the shaft and dripless packing. I sure hope our alignment is good. :egrin:

I forgot to take pictures of our last Sunday escapade but here are a couple of new ones from the previous week. Throttle cables, shift cables, exhaust (hope it doesn't get too hot) oh my...
 

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skipper007

Member II
Marvel Mystery Oil for your injection pump

Mr. Miles says use it to keep your injector pump running top notch.
http://www.marvelmysteryoil.com/

From Jamestowndistributors (cost is $7.66/quart):
Marvel Mystery Oil lubricates the entire fuel system-fuel pumps, fuel injectors or carburetors and the top-portion of the cylinders. These are areas, that by design, motor oil does not reach. Using Marvel Mystery Oil in your fuel extends the life of these vital components by providing them with lubrication that fuel alone does not provide.
And:
Use 4 ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil for every 10 gallons of fuel.
 

Matey

Member III
Going for it !

Thanks Skip,

I'm gonna go for it, close to how you've outlined as soon as the weather mellows and my help is available. I have the starter, water pump, alternator, head and exhaust manifold off .. so it should be pretty manageable.
What kind of paint did you use for the engine space ? It looks good.

I'll let you know how it goes

Regards, Greg
 
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