Ericson 35 anchor setup

We recently purched a 1987 Ericson 35 Mk 3. She is a beautiful boat and well designed accept for the anchor setup.We have a very large and shallow anchor well with a knotch on the starboard side for the rode to exit the well, which seams a bit odd since the bow roller is in the proper location on the bow.Has anybody delt with this problem,I would like to have the rode exit stright out towards the bow roller and also maybe a deeper anchor locker with a windless. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.Thanks

anchor locker

HI Jeff: there are lots of posts on this site pertaining to the anchor setup; just search and they'll pop up. the notch just allows the chain to exit while the anchor is on the roller; or exit the locker while the anchor is deployed; while deploying the anchor the lid would be in the up position; so the notch location would not be a problem. But i theenk your driving at a windless which is a whole nother story; search the various solutions on this site. good luck.

Jeff,

I know what you mean about the starboard rode exit from the well. On my E38 the exit notch corresponds with the starboard bow cleat, which might indicate that the anchor rode should be tied off at the right side cleat and then it can be led directly into the well.

The PO of my boat installed a centerline cleat for the anchor rode that I have since removed. I repaired the holes and for the time being I am tying to that starboard bow cleat.

Is your notch similarly located? Where do you tie off your rode?

There is a thread that discusses how to prevent the anchor rode from riding on the bow pulpit on this board somewhere, also.

We removed most of the shallow locker shelf , added a lower shelf, and added a windlass to ours. As a nice bonus we can now easily get to the underside of the bow cleats and bow pulpit.

I'll be heading to the boat this afternoon and if theres enough light I'll take a couple of pictures and post them - I've been meaning to do that for a couple of years now...

I never could figure out how to deal effectively with the lack of a centerline cleat. So I just used an extra line to tie the rode off across both cleats (see photo).

Why not bring the anchor rode off the roller, outside of the pulpit and cleat it off that way. It is not centered but that should not make a huge difference.

treilley said:

Why not bring the anchor rode off the roller, outside of the pulpit and cleat it off that way. It is not centered but that should not make a huge difference.

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Well this is going to end up being a repeat of the earlier discussion, but my main concern with the solutions that most folks end up using is that the leads are not fair, and the rode ends up chafing on something, whether it is the side of the roller or one of the stanchion bases for the bow pulpit. This isn't really an issue for the occasional night on the hook, but it you do it long enough it will be a problem.

35-3 Anchor Locker

I did an extensive anchor locker project a couple of years ago on my 35-3. I wanted to install a horizontal anchor windlass inside the locker and have the rode feed through a hole in the pan doen to the forepeak below the pan. I removed the pan and reinforced it with additional core and glass on the bottom. I'll post photos this weekend. I also installed an anchor lock on the anchor locker lid which locks in the chain rode. This arrangement has worked well for us.

Anchor Locker Modifications

Heres what we did a few years back. I took a look at what others had done and tried to borrow ideas that we liked.

My goals were:
1) Bigger anchor locker
2) Windlass securely mounted
3) Windlass not a toe snubber on deck
4) Windlass not intrude into cabin
5) Access to undersides of bow cleats/pulpits
6) Not drain into the bilge
7) Not totally look like an amateur hack job (well, only somewhat success there )

The new anchor shelf is strong enough to stand on, and uses the existing drain.

The cut in the pan is just forward of the forward "bulkhead" at the foot of the V-berth, so none of these changes were apparent from the interior. There is wall from the bottom of the new locker shelf to the bottom of old shelf.

I hadn't posted any pictures of this yet because I really wanted to clean things up and give the locker a coat of nice paint rather than the quick splash of HomeDepot special which has already mostly worn off (I did encapsulate all the potenitally wet wood with epoxy). I also still need to make a plug of some sort for the old rode exit in the hatch. We usually tied off our snubbber the same as Steve mentioned upwards in the thread.

We anchored quite a lot last summer and this setup works good for us.

Nice job!

My compliments - that is a nice job! I especially like that you designed it to use the existing bow drain to keep water and mud out of the bilge.

Cory, it looks great, and you found a way to put the windlass forward of the locker. Kind of a novel solution, well executed.

I'd like to see Laura's pictures, too, especially if she submerged the windlass below the deck. That appeals to me, also.

Thanks to everyone who responded,some really great information. I like what Cory did it's nice to have the widless tucked into the bow,where its out of the way.A very nice job. I can't wait to get started on this new project.
Thanks again for the help.
Jeff

CoryBolton said:

I also still need to make a plug of some sort for the old rode exit in the hatch.

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Cory,

If you ever add a wash-down pump and a hose, that old exit hole would be perfect for a hose to exit through, also. You might want to keep it for that, although a removable plug would be a nice compromise.

Getting ready to cruise!

We have been living aboard our E38 in Maine for 3 years and are now getting ready to retire and sail away. Our next project is going to be removing the anchor locker and installing a windlass for a new 44 lb Rocna anchor and 90 ft of 5/16 G4 Acco high test chain with 150 ft of 3 strand triple braid nylon 5/8".
I love everyone's anchor locker improvements and think I have found all the threads to read. I am looking at a maxwell Hrc 8 windlass. Cory, did you mount a vertical or horizontal? How did you reinforce the deck under the windlass? Did you reinforce the bottom of the "shelf" left when you cut away the locker pan?
Here are some additions I am thinking about. I'd like to be able to store the anchor inside the locker when we are in stormy weather, and perhaps a watertight lift up or screw on deck plate to allow the chain to fall lower in the forward compartment. Thanks so much. All advice is appreciated
Jane Jameson

Details

Newbee said:

... Cory, did you mount a vertical or horizontal? How did you reinforce the deck under the windlass? Did you reinforce the bottom of the "shelf" left when you cut away the locker pan?
Here are some additions I am thinking about. I'd like to be able to store the anchor inside the locker when we are in stormy weather, and perhaps a watertight lift up or screw on deck plate to allow the chain to fall lower in the forward compartment. Thanks so much. All advice is appreciated
Jane Jameson

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Hi Jane,

I installed a Maxwell vertical windlass. I wanted something low profile.

I heavily reinforced the deck under the windlass all the way across the deck. Its been rock solid.

You can't see it from the pictures, but I added a "bulkhead" (using the term loosely) on the aft end of the new anchor locker floor that connects to the bottom of the remains of the original locker. It keeps any water or mud or stinky stuff that gets into the locker from getting to the bilge. The shelf is pretty strong. I wouldn't stand on it, but my young kids do.

There have been a lot of good anchor locker mods posted here since I did mine. Its great to be able to see all of them and pick and choose the features that make sense for you.

Can anybody tell me your thought process for where you ran the large anchor windlass cables for your 35-3. I am using the Cory B Locker Modification scheme so they would run from the traditional house bank to the bow. Did you run Port Side / Center / Starboard Side or a combination of the above. And where did you mount the solenoid, fuseblock, etc. We race so I would prefer them to run as low as possible. Thanks in advance.