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1975 e27 strut bearing question

marcusn

Member II
Mechanic working on my a4 says the bearing is worn. In his words it's shot. I know he's very overly cautious, and I appreciate that. BUT, I really want to FINALLY get her wet and begin sailing! (she's on jacks currently)

He insures me that if I don't fix it (as I'm inclined to wait until October), the only damage I might incur, is a worn shaft. It won't sink the boat, fall off, etc.

Can anyone weigh in on whether or not I'm crazy to delay this?
I'm betting it won't be the first season she's had a worn bearing.
Understand that I only plan to use the iron horse to get in and out of the marina, and don't mind traveling slowly.

Thanks vikings!
 

sleather

Sustaining Member
How much slop is there now? Like he said it can't fail and doubtfull that it would harm the shaft because the shaft is a harder material. There may be an increase in vibration if the props not perfectly balanced. On the other hand it's a quick fix(depending on his schedule).
 

marcusn

Member II
quick fix

he estimated 6 hours.
He said he has to pull the shaft out to even check for wear.
So, I'm kind of playing roulette, but I think the hard shaft will outlast you and I.
 

tenders

Innocent Bystander
If you grab the prop, one hand per blade, and wiggle it up and down, does it bump back and forth or does it shimmy a little?

Bumping is a problem and can mess up your transmission.

If it isn't bumping, unless you motor a lot, I'd give it until October. Even if the shaft is badly worn, and it probably isn't, a replacement is not all that expensive.

By the way, some yards have a tool to remove cutless bearings without pulling the shaft. It involves a split pipe that gets assembled around the shaft, forward of the strut. The force is applied to the split pipe from the tip of the shaft and pushes the bearing out of the strut towards the propeller. (The prop has to be removed, which is easy.) It is not a six-hour job that way, and if the shaft isn't worn, the replacement bearing is straightforward to press in with the shaft in place.

Getting the shaft off of the engine coupling can be a huge job and can open up a Pandora's box of other stuff that oughta be done while the shaft is out. Don't ask me how I know this. I'm not in the water yet either.
 

sleather

Sustaining Member
Thanks

By the way, some yards have a tool to remove cutless bearings without pulling the shaft. It involves a split pipe that gets assembled around the shaft, forward of the strut. The force is applied to the split pipe from the tip of the shaft and pushes the bearing out of the strut towards the propeller. (The prop has to be removed, which is easy.) It is not a six-hour job that way, and if the shaft isn't worn, the replacement bearing is straightforward to press in with the shaft in place.

Thanks for elaborating, that's exactly what I was thinking.;)
 

Dave Hussey

Member III
The bearing itself is a rubber sleeve bonded inside a bronze (or now-a-days you can get fiber) tube which is a friction fit in the cutless strut.
I replaced mine, and found that in order to do so, and retain my sanity, required cutting the shaft because the coupler flange would not budge, no matter what technique was employed. This information is just so you know it can justify the mechanics 6 hours of labor. I figure by doing it yourself, you will still spend the money, but you will have a new shaft, bearing, and satisfaction of a job well done.
Now the first thing to do is unbolt the flange from the transmission, and pull the shaft as far out as you can, and see if there is any corrosion on the shaft hidden inside the worn out cutless bearing...mine was pitted and would have destroyed a new bearing in no time. That gave me the justification and vindication I needed to go ahead and cut the shaft, a decision I had already made after busting my knuckles and scaring all the women and children in the vicinity of the boat yard after trying to remove that damnable coupler:mad:
Good Luck.
 

Dan W

Member I
Having just done this project I thought I would offer up my 2 cents worth:

I read somewhere that 1/16" is the max play you should get at the bearing . When I purchased my boat in 2003 it had just about this and the surveyor suggested I replace it asap --- I put it off for 4 seasons with no ill effect... however there was always a little more vibration than I cared for, but never unacceptable...

My local boat yard on Long Island indicated the only risk was possible damage to the seals on the transmission with resulting oil leak. But this required extreme vibration issues.

I had to cut my shaft to get it out (coupling was severely corroded on), new shaft was less than $300 -- the old one had minimal wear at the bearing and was salvageable. The trick is whether or not you can get the coupling off the shaft.
 

Emerald

Moderator
I'd vote for getting this done and behind you. Why put off what you know is needed, especially since you could take your shaft from good to bad, which just means more money. Same on transmission related stuff. Why risk it? My experience with bearing failures (not prop shaft, but just general) is that they can run a period messed up, but then just go, and go big. No need to get out in a storm and suddenly having a vibrating disaster because the last bit of rubber gave up the ghost. If you do need a shaft, check these guys:

http://www.a1discountprop.com/

I got a coupling and shaft from them when I did my prior A4 powered E-27, and I was quite happy with price and service.

BTW, really appreciate your desire to be in the water. I'm trying to finish a gelcoat blister repair by this weekend so I can join the Chesapeake raftup, but now facing the reality that I'm probably going to miss being ready to launch by a day or two, but in the long run, it's not worth shortcutting just to get in the water a few days sooner. Just my $.02
 
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ChrisS

Member III
While my 32-2 hauled out this year, the yard was able to replace the bearing without pulling the shaft--I think they charged me one hour, plus the cost of the bearing. There's much less vibration. Well worth it if you are hauled.
 

Mort Fligelman

Member III
Cutlass Bearing Replacement

Marcus: I am assuming that your boat is a fresh water baby from day one.....this being the case replacing the bearing should be a simple no brainer....not a six hour job. All of the above suggestions will work to change the bearing.....Also.....there should be no corrosion on the shaft UNLESS the boat was in an area with extreme electrolysis......and even then...fresh water it would have had to have been monumental.

I would agree however that if you feel the play in the bearing is not that great you would not do any harm.......BUT....if you get in the water and have an inordinate amount of vibration you would be looking at a haulout....

My .02 worth.

Mort Fligelman
 

Gary G

Member II
Just did this job

Marcus,

I see we're in the same neck of the woods... I just had a new bearing put in my E28+ by Larsen. It turned out to be a significant job as they had to pull the shaft and in order to do that had to drop the rudder. We splashed the boat over the weekend and the difference is pretty impressive - vibration greatly reduced. Although there seemed to be little play in the bearing prior to replacement, one other thing to note is that in our area the constant freeze/thaw cycle can result in small cracks in the rubber part of the bearing that can cause big trouble. I had to look closely but could definitely see them on my old bearing. The engine by nature is something you really need when you need it, and Murphy being the SOB he is will take advantage of any opportunity to have at you; so IMHO I would bite the bullet and get this job done and behind you and sail happy!

Gary
s/v Imi Loa E28+
 

Tom Metzger

Sustaining Partner
See Tom Metzger's tool here:
http://ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?t=3253

I don't believe this would have worked with my bearing. The stress on the wood would've been too much. The parts would need to be metal.

Tenders - Back in the day, when I lived in Scarsdale, there was tougher wood than you have today. ;)

Upstate 4 X 4s are still pretty tough. If you are concerned, though, cut a washer in half and use it to spread the load on the wood.
 

tenders

Innocent Bystander
> Tenders - Back in the day, when I lived in Scarsdale, there was tougher wood than you have today.

Hmmmm. When did you live in Scarsdale? And where? I believe old-growth Greenacres wood is quite a bit stronger than the new-growth stuff they hawk nowadays in Home Depot (and use in some of those newfangled Quaker Ridge homes).

(Those are 4x4s? They look half that. I do like that tool and will try it if I ever have to replace the bearing without pulling the shaft. But so far, I've never had to replace a cutless bearing for reasons of wear or failure. It's always been a "while you've got the shaft out..." situation.)
 

Dave Hussey

Member III
Regarding the corrosion discussion: unfortunately, my stainless shaft was done in by something called crevice corrosion as I was informed, not necessarily electrolysis. This phenomenon is apparently due to a lack of oxygen on the ss surface, as was the case where the rubber bearing enshrouded the shaft. I would think no boat is immune to this, in salt or sweet water. I'm afraid that's all I think I know on that. :egrin: YMMV
 

dk100

Sailor Dick
E27 Cutlass bearing replacement

I have read the various notes on replacing cutlass bearing. But I have not seen anyone say where to get the blinkin' bearings. I have an E27. My bearing just started making a squealing noise on the last date of usage. it's hauled out now and when I spin the prop by hand, I can get it to squeal again. Guess it needs replacement. Part number anybody?

Thanks,

Dick
 

Gary G

Member II
Bearing source

Dick,

You might want to give Larsen Marine Service in Waukegan a call. Back in the day they were one of the largest Ericson Dealers on the Great Lakes and still service dozens of Ericson owners around the area. They replaced my bearing last winter. If they don't have the part in stock I'm sure they can get it for you or point you to a source.

Gary
 

dk100

Sailor Dick
Gary,

Thanks for the suggestion. Of course, Larsen makes sense as a source. I know them well and should have thought of calling them. Currently keeping Mariah at Skipper Bud's up the street. SB gave me a quote but I always like to shop around. And I am a strong believer in repairing what I can repair. Then I know what the boat's all about. Besides, it's part of the "deal" and gives me a sense of accomplishment when the repair works!

Thanks again.

Dick
 

tenders

Innocent Bystander
These (technically "Cutless" bearings, a brand name, not cutlass, though very few make the distinction nowadays) are specced by the diameter of the shaft.

West Marine sells them at an absolutely outrageous markup; Defender less so
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|311|314178&id=1032593

Here's Hamilton Marine's; $50 for a 3/4" shaft (which is what my boat happens to use):
http://store.hamiltonmarine.com/browse.cfm/4,3136.html

If you poke around froogle.com you might save a few more bucks. I bought one this spring from some outfit in Florida and I think it was $50 including shipping.
 
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