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Ericson 23 Traveler

fredn56

Member II
I am the new owner of a 1976 e23, which has the mainsheet attached to a u-bolt on the cockpit floor.
Can I get some suggestions about specifications and installation of a traveller?
What differences will this make on sailing performance?
How hard will it be to install? Where to put it?
How much can I anticipate spending?

Thanks from a newbie, and plan on more questions in the very near future.
 

TwistedLogic

Member II
Welcome:
I also have a 23'. My boat is a 1975 c/b I sail out of Venice, FL on the gulf coast, without a traveler.
I posted a similar request last month and only got referred to an old post that doesn't exist.
I am planning on mounting the traveler just forward of the seat hatches.
I plan to use a piece of 1" thick starboard (Marine Plastic) to span the seat gap.
I think that will be easily tended from the helm without interfering with the tiller, and still use the same bail on the boom.
I haven't priced hardware yet.
Let me know if you find a deal, and I will do the same.
Happy Sailing !
:egrin:
 

sleather

Sustaining Member
Doh!

Sorry guys, been busy and the boat's a mess!:esad:

I'll really try to post some pics and a description tomorrow. I was hoping for a rigged and in-the-water shot but I'll get something SOON!
 

sleather

Sustaining Member
My Traveler

Ok guys, My 23 came with an aftermarket Harken traveler that spanned the entire cockpit. I found it very annoying because it really didn't allow for two people to sit forward of the hatches(or lay on the seat). It was mounted directly over the stock floor mounted location(see orange dots) and the turning blocks and cleats were mounted on the vertical face of the coaming(comfortable, NOT!:mad:)

I cut down the track to fit the footwell 4 1/2" further aft and mounted it to a 2"x4" piece of solid teak. The track has a 1" threaded aluminum plug inside(home made) w/ a 3/8" bolt at the ends(see interior shot). The teak bridge has 2-5/16" lag bolts x 2 1/2"lg. each side w/ a 2"x 4"x 1/8" backing plate(watch the spacing of the vert. track screws). Eye strap and cam cleat for the line. This still allows for two to sit comfortably and still use the controls(female passenger preferred ;))

:0305_alar Word of caution! The angles for the bridge are really ODD. The cockpit tapers fore and aft and also vertically so measurements are critical. Start slightly forward and trim-to-fit as you reach the final location.

Another note: The top of the track is 3/4" below the seat. That acts as a stop for the traveler car. It's slightly easier to step over too, and allows access inside for the top traveler track bolt(the seats are plywood cored).

I've spent a ton of time on racing boats and this allows "more than adequate" main control(although it "looks" short).

All the items are '79 vintage so track and hardware may vary. If I remember correctly(not gettin' an younger) I cut about ~6" off the tiller to allow for a comfortable workplace behind the traveler. Anyway the distance from the tiller bolt to the end is 4'-2". The winch handle holders are PVC pipe heated and shaped to 2"x 2 1/2"(handy items!)

Have at it! The system works great!:egrin:
 

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WhiteNoise

Member III
Starboard

While I would agree that starboard is a great material with many uses my only recommendation would be to use wood for this project. I don't believe starboard possesses the rigidity you are looking for.

Just my 2 cents for what it's worth. Good luck!
 
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