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e23 trailer / launch question....

rbonilla

"don't tread on me" member XVXIIIII
question for folks w/a e23 trailer and lunching expierence.....our gmc truck will require a extension or chain or some sort of device to allow the trailer to be backed down aprox 10 - 15 feet further into the water than it sits hooked up to the trailer hitch ( in the towing config ) ... i was thinking of a ridged bar or extension ... does anyone use one of these, or have you ran into this issue ? i am thinking a ridged bar is much better than a chain ... does all of this just depend on the local ramp charistics (sp) , such a water level, depth and angle of the particular ramp .. ?? thanx for any tips :nerd:
 

Steve Swann

Member III
Ramp launching

rbonilla,

Your questions are good ones. I trail both an Ericson 25 (7,000 lbs) and a Nor'sea 27 (13,000 lbs) for ramp launching.

Here is my 2 cents worth. You can purchase a piece of glavanized steel that will work for a temporary tongue extension for running your boat down into the water and back out from any steel supplier. Make sure it is at least as stout as the trailer frame and you can store it on the trailer while travelling. You'll have to add a tongue hitch to this extension and you may have to have a good tongue wheel that rolls and supports this longer extension. These can be found as bolt-on items so you won't need a welder. A couple of large "U" bolts will attach this alonside your hitch ( you may need a bit of a standoff to keep your new extension parallel to the trailer tongue to get around the towing trailer hitch.

I would still add a safety cable from the trailer (aft of the extension) to the bumper of my truck. Trailers do not float, I'm told.

You can run your truck down to the water all the way to the exhaust pipe without too much trouble, but make sure water doesn't go over the top of your rear differential either! You may ingest some water into your rear differential - and this isn't good either. Grease and water mixed makes gray goo. Gray goo needs to be removed as soon as you can because it no longer lubricates and will cause rust inside the case and gears.

Avoid dipping your trailer axles into the water when the hubs are warm if you can can help it. They, too, will suck in water if they are hot. Use waterproof grease to grease your bearings. Repack often, don't blow the seals. Check grease in hubs every 500-600 miles of travel.

Repack your bearings at least once a season. I actually replace mine every year, they are cheap insurance. They cost $17 ea. to buy and about $12 ea. to repack. No brainer here.

Remember to have adequate guides on your trailer to guide it back into the correct position returning it to the trailer. Don't be afraid to have someone ready to get in the water to assist on aligning the boat and the bunks. Avoid putting this person into situations where they could get pinned between the boat, trailer, or dock!

Disconnect your lights before backing into the water!

Many lakes with multiple ramps will have certain ramps that are steeper than others and better for sailboat launching. Find out where the steepest one is and always prefer this one if you can.

Watch for overhead lines and overhanging tree branches!

I would never submerge my trailer in saltwater - ever.

Go slow, think it through, and you'll be fine.

Steve Swann
E25 c/b
 

sleather

Sustaining Member
Trailer 101

What Steve said!:0305_coff

Two things I could add to the mix after dealing w/ a friends J24. The tongue extension on his was housed in two steel sleeves that were slightly larger square tubing, welded to the tongue and held the extension in place w/ a pin similar to the retainer pin in the hitch receiver. When the boat's lined up and positioned at the ramp "top", block the trailer wheels(beveled 4x4's) and pull the extension out, re pin, and attach to the vehicle. Remove the blocks and launch.

We added a skid plate under the existing tongue(optional), as it dragged badly on the grade break at the top of the ramp(be sure you have no protruding bolts that can snag the joint between the concrete and asphalt) . We also added 2-45* welded wedges in front of the front trailer tires as it was quite common to drop the trailer wheels off the submerged end of the concrete ramp. When this happens you can't get the trailer tires up and over the "lip" w/o the wedges.:mad: You can "probe" the end of your ramp, but most have a hole at the end of the concrete from "drive-on" powerboats.

BTW, The extension tube doesn't have to match the existing trailer tongue. It doesn't see the abuse the trailer does. Start w/ the standard 2" non-brake hitch unit and size the tube to match. Also remember "DO NOT" try to maneuver the trailer much w/ the extension. They should only be used for a "straight shot", in and out.
 
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mgray003

Member II
Our local sail club has an extension like described....and this is a fairly small club. You may be able to find one that you could borrow. Our's has a set of 6" wheels under the end with the trailer ball. The wheels don't touch the ramp when attached to the boat, but makes it easier to move around. Good luck.
 
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