Can't get flange off shaft

I'm trying to install my PSS and can't get the iron drive flange off the shaft.
I have tried penetrating lube, heat and a BFH.
I would use a gear puller but only have 2 1/4" of clearance.
Any other ideas?

Getting a rusted in cast iron flange off a prop shaft can be a bitch.
The obvious solution is simply to move the engine forward enough to
get a puller on but before you do that, you might try this:
Find a shim the same or slightly smaller than your shaft diameter
and place it between the flanges. centered on the shaft. A socket set comes to mind.
Then get some longer bolts and bolt up the coupling to the trans carefully tightening them
in an "x" pattern and with any luck, you can get the flange to move off
the shaft. You can bend or break something doing this, so go slow and
careful when attempting this and if it's not moving then stop and figure
out something else. Good luck.

PS. The best penetrating oil I've ever used is Kroil, from Kano Labs.

What Martin said. It works, I have spent over 2 hours with a socket, and bolts of 2 different lengths. If you have the time, as soon as you get it to move some, stop and put more penetrating oil on. Wait till morning and attack again.

I had the same problem. I opted to remove the propeller, hoist the engine a few feet, then remove the shaft by pulling it forward into the cabin. After that, removing it with a gear puller was a cinch, and nothing broke.

Not sure if you can remove the shaft by pulling it aft on your boat so it clears the rudder (assuming you get the coupling off). Servicing the whole shaft assembly is certainly easier when it's completely out. Replacing the cutlass bearing, shaft seal, even inspecting the shaft for scoring is better done with the shaft out. It only took me an hour to completely disconnect the engine, raise it, and get the shaft out. It'll likely take the same to get it back in, and I get to refamiliarize myself with all the wiring again. Fun.

Let us know how it goes.

Sometimes if you get some pressure on it as Martin describes above and then hit it with some heat it will pop. I plan to replace my shaft this year in any case so if it gives me any grief at all i will simply cut the shaft and get it out that way.

Thanks for all the good ideas.
I'll try it putting a spacer and use the trans housing as my puller.
I'll go slow and apply heat, penetrating oil and some precision "whacks" with my BFH.
If it doesn't want to go, I don't want to break the trans coupling. Then I'll move the engine and get a puller on the end.
Thanks!

Ditto Martin King's comments and suggestion.

Toughest most infuriating project I've ever had to do on a boat. Really puts the F in BFH (I had to look that acronym up).

Don Moyer is in the process of testing split flanges for Atomic Four shafts.

I've experienced this frustrating task too. Have you determined that the shaft is a keeper? I discovered pit corrosion on the shaft at the cutless bearing so decided to cut the shaft and replaced it...not terribly expensive and saved hours of expletives and busted knuckles.

Check this out.
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/pss_shaft_seal

The shaft is a keeper, it is not pitted, it's in good shape. The flange was painted so it is not rusted. It is just froze on to the shaft.

The more I think about it, making a cutting two pieces of flat steel, drill some slots in them, overlay them in a "x" pattern and put 1" pieces of pipe on the bolts sounds much better than cracking my transmission mount. A little extra work now vs. a possible lot more work and $ later seems like a great idea.

I dunno though, with penetrating lube, time and heat it should come off right?

Confused at the moment as to which to try, I really don't know how much tension I can put on that transmission coupler... *sigh* I'll let it roll around in my head for another couple days.

Thanks again for all the help, that web site with pictures is great!

a Whacking Good suggestion

tenders said:

Toughest most infuriating project I've ever had to do on a boat. Really puts the F in BFH (I had to look that acronym up).

Click to expand...

One suggestion about the required "percussive maint." tool...
After never seeming to have the proper hammer around for boat work, I found that the Very Best one is a short-handled "drill hammer" from Harbor Freight. It must be about 3#, and can deliver good force with only a very short swing. Whether chipping some old poly putty off or appying diplomacy to a fitting, it has been a main tool for us for years. Most other hammers are designed for a long swing with a long "normal size" handle, and you just never have any room to work inside a compartment on ye ol' family yacht...

We call it "the thudder."

Regards,

Loren