Prop log tube glassed in

I started replacing the packing for the prop shaft and intended to change the rubber tubing at this time on my 1978 E29. I started removing the clamps and realized that the rubber tubing is glassed into the prop log. Has anyone else seen this and any recommendations for the removal of the glassing to get the rubber tubing off?

The rubber seems solid but it is 30 years old and I would like to replace it with about an inch longer to give a new contact spot on the prop shaft.

Brute force?

If this is about the short,heavy duty rubber/fabric/wire hose section (resembles exhaust hose) that is double-clamped to the frp tube on one end and clamped to the bronze stuffing box on the other....
After many decades it may have bonded (!!) to the frp shaft tube.
It should be possible to wiggle it loose after all the ss clamps are off, but I can see where it may have "become one" with the glass.

On our '88 boat, it came off fairly easy in '95 when we put the PSS shaft seal on, but Posidon Only Knows how much it would take to separate it after three decades...


Good Luck,

Loren

There is glass laid up over the rubber tube at the end that attaches to the hull.

Help

I do need to know if anyone else has seen the rubber tube for the prop shaft glassed in and two hose clamps outside the glass. This looks factory and has the gray inner hull paint over it. I gouged out a little glass and the rubber is at lease half an inch into the glass. I really want to replace this 30 year old rubber.

Even if it looks factory, do you think it could be a PO modification (to glass in that hose)? Perhaps it was leaking a bit and they thought adding some epoxy/glass would resolve it? I dunno.

We have the same boat, and I took mine off stuffing gland/hose off earlier this year to replace it with a PSS shaft seal. I had no problems. What is the ID of the hose? I think mine was 1.5" (or near that anyway). If yours is close to the same, I would probably just grind away the glass until I got to the end of the hose (being careful not to grind into the hose and thereby risking grinding into the log). A shaft log of 1.5" OD would indicate enough reinforcement around the log where I would feel comfortable grinding away the skin outside the hose and still sleep at night. This is unless of course the hose goes into the hull itself (which I can't imagine it does), in which case you can still grind away to get hose out of there and do a proper patching job with a 12:1 bevel and alternating layers of mat and cloth. Bottom line though, you need to be able to replace that hose - it is a sinking hazard being 30 years old!. How you get there is the question.

Photos would help. Keep us posted, and good luck.

I removed the prop log tube today. The rubber tube was glassed over on the end at the hull by about ½ inch. The glass did not bond to the rubber tubing so I could remove it without cutting away all the glass. The challenge now is that the rubber tube is 1 3/8”
on one end and 1 ¼” on the other end. I think that the hose will crush to seal on the smaller end.

Is exhaust hose what is used or is there a special hose for this purpose?

There is a specific type of hose. Do not use Exhaust hose. Also try and match your components so that they will be the same OD at your prop tube. The hose needs to be the same ID at both ends.

You should also double clamp your hose attached to the seacock in the photo, as well as all entry/exit fittings below the water line.

It looks like you have the same original hose my E29 had when I bought her (the ridged hose in the photo). Mine was so brittle I was able to break it by hand - learned that the hard way when I was removing my batteries on time - thank goodness for working seacocks! Anyway, if it is the original hose, I'd recommend replacing it as that is a definite sinking hazard.

From the Horses Mouth

I need to replace the original Shaft Log Hose Connector on the
E35II. Never seen a Log hose glassed in, which I doubt was a Factory install.
Sounds like a PO thing to improve sealing, which you do not need.
I talked to Jim Lombardy / Applications Engineer - Shields Hose at
217.324.9400 for the correct Hose to use. Shields recommends Series 200
Neoprene Water/Exhaust Hose - Without Wire Spiral for this application.
Jim indicated that Shaft Log Builders use this Hose exclusively for the
connection between packing glands and shaft logs.
I would recommend (2) solid type hose clamps on each end. When I went to
tighten the old open thread clamps they DISINTAGRATED to a pile of RUST !
Luckily I was at rest and had no Leaks :nerd:

Happy Shaft Log

Replacing cheap, rusty hose clamps.

Dan & all, For what it's worth the Swedish ABA or AWAB (can never remember what name they are now) hose clamps are 100% 316 stainless steel and won't disintegrate into a pile of rust, ever. In addition their threads are not cut all the way through and are more perpendicular to the screw than cheaper ones. Because of that thread angle, the result is that they won't loosen under vibration, etc and according to one of their mechanical engineers who I spoke to, they can be used alone without a second clamp for below the water installations. They don't promote that in any of their literature because of the prevailing thought that all clamping installations below the waterline need double clamped based on the performance of "Ideal" brand and type clamps and not theirs. That said, I have double clamps on my shaft log because an insurance survey noted only one clamp per end and I don't want to be out of compliance with my insurer. All the rest of these installations on our boat are single clamped and have been so for years with nary a loose clamp or a drop from any of them. Might I suggest that when replacing rusted ones to look for these Swedish ones available at most chandleries including West Marine? Glyn Judson, E31 hull #55, Marina del Rey,CA

The hoses are the next project after the bottom job and new halyards. My hoses are old and ugly but not brittle as of yet. I plan to run the cockpit scuppers out the transom and get them above the waterline.
The prop log is definitely original from the factory the grey paint on it is the same that is everywhere on the boat even under the gas tank I removed. The glass was over but not bonded to the rubber.

Somewhere on this site is a cartoon of a guy driving to the dock throwing money at his boat and driving home whistling all the way.

Very interesting. On our E32-3 the stuffing box hose is also glassed partly over near the most aft clamp. I had thought some PO had done that, maybe to stop a leak. Now I am thinking, and I have heard from another Catalina owner, that sometimes this glassing over occurs when they build the boats. If that is true then my stuffing box hose is 22 years old. It sure looks old, but is not leaking. Next haul out it gets fixed right, at least that's my plan.

Randy-

I'd be interested in your plan to run scupper hoses out of the transom. I'm doing a bottom job on my boat right now, and plan to do something similar. I will grind a 12:1 bevel and patch up the two existing 1.5" thru-hull openings for the scuppers just forward of the batteries, and either move them aft with 2" thru-hull openings (per Seth's advice) or go thru the transom. This is all to allow greater drainage capacity and shorten the hose run (thereby reducing friction and improving drainage). Sounds like we both have Bermuda on our minds.

I'm also considering Maggie-K's sump project.

John