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36C Re-power?

fewpossesions

New Member
Well we made it to Wetsbroork, CT before the 1986 BUKH 24 ME began to devellop quarts of water in her crankcase over very short running periods(20 min). After a new water pump ($430)and a failed head gasket proved both to be "not it". We hauled "Frankie" ($700) and trucked her ($1500)home to Maine for an aggonizing re-think of the situation. there goes the kitty:esad: Florida-bound were going to have to try again next summer,but in the mean-time..... What is the best re-power solution??
 

chaco

Member III
Repower...that is the Question

Replaced an M4-30 Universal Diesel with Beta 902 :nerd:
The best Diesel replacements for our little boats is Beta and Yanmar IMHO.
Universal is still selling old technology left over from all the Engines sitting
around that never Moved. The Beta Replacement for the Atomic 4 is a great engineered product and
the Factory BackUp out of BetaMarine, NC (252.249.2473) is incredible:)

Get your Wallet Out :egrin: :egrin:
 

JMS

Member II
Another vote for Beta Marine.

(Insert standard IMHO disclaimer)

We did a lot of research on replacements for an A4 and the Beta diesels were the clear winners.
 

wurzner

Member III
Hmm Something does not seem right here

Gents,

I just put in a universal M35 which is definately a new design engine. Opposed to the M40 which was derived from the 5432 engine, the 35 puts out 35hp opposed to 32 from the 40. I wanted a low turning 4 cylinder engine which put the Yanmars out of scope...they are 3 cylinder turbo's in that range if I'm not mistaken ( I may be). That being said, I believe the Beta and Universals are all based on newer kubota blocks. The westerbekes are all based on mitsubishi blocks.

I was really interested in the Beta's but the pricing is out of touch based on the currency enchange. I paid around 9K for my engine last year and have been very happy with around 250 hours on the clock.

I don't think you can go wrong with Beta, Yanmar, Universal, or Westerbeke. I would personally say find what is going to be the best cross footprint wise and take it from there. Unless the folks on the list know something I don't, the diffferences in Beta and Universal is more on the aftermarket side than anything else, at least for what I put in.

I like it but I'm sure any new engine I would have liked...hell, I like my old M40!

Cheers
Shaun
 

Blue Jeans

Member I
36C Repower

I have 'Blue Jeans' in Seattle, WA, an Ericson 36C. We recently got an engine full of water after having run all summer with no problems. Removed the head, gasket is OK. New gaskets on order, expensive and come from the East coast. While the head is off the valves have been ground and the injectors serviced.
After talking to a local engine repair, I think the problem may have been in the vented loop system that siphoned water into the engine and not an engine problem. I still need to get a better understanding of the loop to see if that was in fact the problem.
Is it possible that your water intrusion is from the same cause? It may be you don't need a new engine.

Bob McKee
Dean Ronhaar
'Blue Jeans'
 

chaco

Member III
Vented Loops

Best info on vented loops is in www.westerbeke.com "Installation Guide"
and the Vernalift Site www.centekindustries.com.
Most misunderstood and engine destroying subject on our site :confused:
A very common source of water in your engine is OVERCRANKING and sending
raw water in to your Exhaust Outlet from the Cooling Injector as your lift
station fills. All Engines below the water line need to START right away to avoid this problem.
My engine was DESTROYED by the PO in this Fashion :mad:
Follow the Vernalft Guidelines and you can't go wrong.

Happy Cooling :egrin: :egrin: /) /)
 

NateHanson

Sustaining Member
Seawater can also back up into the cylinders on some boats when underway for a long time in following seas. The waves can push water through the exaust line, filling the muffler, and eventually pushing water up into the exhaust manifold. Some builders specify (or cruisers retrofit) valves in the exhaust line that can be closed in rough conditions, or flapper valves that will cut down on waves forcing their way in.

Prolonged cranking is certainly a more common source of water in the cylinders though.
 

Tom Metzger

Sustaining Partner
It doesn't take long...

Seawater can also back up into the cylinders on some boats when underway for a long time in following seas. The waves can push water through the exhaust line, filling the muffler, and eventually pushing water up into the exhaust manifold.

One squall on Lk Ontario is enough to kill an M-25XP. :mad: It wasn't mine and it wasn't an Ericson. We had up about a postage stamp in front with no main in about 50-60 kts down wind and didn't know we had a problem until we tried to start the engine in the Oswego River.
 
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