Oberdorfer pump - worn seals

Hi all,
My 1988 Universal M25XP has raw water Oberdorfer pump.
The Shaft and seals had worn and water started dripping.
The pump has one graphite bushing and two rubber/spring seal.
Is anyone can tell me how to replace the seals and bushing?
Thanks,
Mike
E32-89
Scotch Plains, NJ

Lots of info here

There are lots of threads on the subject. Search on Oberdorfer. These are two on the subject.

http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?t=5214

http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?t=3315&highlight=raw

Water pump

I have a Universal 25XP as well on my E-36c. I had the same problem. The boat came with a rebuild kit (but shouldn't be hard to find one). I had a mechanic do the job and it leaked even worse afterward. I bought a new pump and it performs perfectly. I learned two things, one, try to fix it, but be prepared to get a new one $$$$$$, two, the former owner just let it leak for years, since it essentially worked, but the leaking water rusted my dip stick where it meets the engine and now I have an oil leak, right where in my case, no one can reach and I'm going to have to get the engine pulled to fix it! Moral of the story, don't hesitate-fix it now.

Russell

I don't the official answer to changing the seals. I carefully dug out the inner seal in pieces without damaging the carbon bushing or the pump housing. Took about an hour. If I had it to over I would have changed the carbon bushing too as that would make getting out the inner seal much easier. And, no it doesn't leak a drop now. Go for it.

The key to success is to get the seal in square. I have heard a "trained" mechanic say you can use a hammer to tap them back in. Not so. This is why they continue to leak. I have lots of experience replacing seals and such on car engines. What I do is use a variety of sockets with a wheel puller to carefully press the seals and bushings back in. I rebuilt mine at the beginning of the season and still no leaks.

BTW, I heard a story of someone who put a piece of rubber hose around the shaft casing with a hose clamp to stop the leaking. This works great to stop the leaking. Unfortunately it also works great further destroying your seals and forcing raw water into your oil. Result: New engine!

I got new pump -200$
Thanks,
Mike G
e32-3 /89

Ouch you guys are killing me

http://www.skf.com/portal/skf_us/ho...40&contentId=513135&action=viewDetail&lang=en


The issue is that there is a small grove worn into the shaft, you need to replace the seals, and fix that small grove, the last one of these that I bought coast something like $15.00. And that might have been for two of them. Yes they are stainless and work like magic. Save those pumps, and send me a donation for the margarita fund instead


They work like a charm. I have used them on a ton of projects on boats, with the same issues.

Guy

Hi, Mike,

Could I ask where you found a pump for $200?

Hey Guy,
What did you mean you need to replace the seals and fix that groove... you made it sound like you purchased something to fit into the groove... is that what you meant? If so, what was it, and how did you fix it? More info would be great. Thanks,
Duncan

The link

Any good bearing shop has all that you need to do this job:

1: A SKF ‘Speedi-Sleeve’ or equivalent to go on the shaft of the pump where the existing old seal has cut a tiny groove.

2: A new set of seals

3: A new bearing (I remember it only having one, but you may need two depending on which pump you are rebuilding)

I recommend dissembling the pump taking all the parts to the bearing shop getting all the parts, and then reassembling.

Dissemble pump, lightly clean the shaft with some mild solvent to get any visable junk off of it. Carefully tap the speedi sleeve onto the shaft where the seals go, break off the speedi sleeve installation ring. Reassemble the pump using the new bearings and the new seals. Note depending on the pump the bearings may have to be installed before the speedi sleeve. Look at what you are doing and how it all goes together before putting the speedi sleeve on.

I generally carry two pumps on long cruises, extra seals and bearings, and a couple of speedi sleeves for rebuilding them. It makes the whole process easy, and you are never long without a functional engine.

Guy

Guy, that is an awesome chunk of information. I think I will send the Atomic Four forum guys to your thread, we all have oberdorfers for the most part. This is really great info, thankyou.
Duncan

I'm not a machinist and I had never heard of Speedi-Sleeves before, but I did take the liberty of referring Don Moyer to the concept and this post on his A4 maintenance forum (moyermarine.com).

Yep, thanks Tenders... that's where I saw the link for this post! (and I am already a member here — I have a 1976 E29).
Duncan