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Looking for thru hull strainer (pic)

marcusn

Member II
This is off my E27.
had to put a hole in it to remove the old gate valve.

Anyone know where to find one like this?
I can only seem to find the 'scoop' kind, or strainers that seem to attach over a thru hull.

This original appears to be one piece, and fairly simple.

Thanks in advance,

marcus
 

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Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
"Search" and ye shall find...

I would suggest changing to a regular open type 3/4" thru hull. Put a proper sea strainer inside where you can clean out flora and fauna easily. If you get some crud or a plastic baggy stuck in those little slots it would be hard to remove even by diving on it.
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?t=3251&referrerid=28
Here is a link to a relavent thread and it in turn has links to some others here -- some of which have pictures.


Best,
Loren
 
Last edited:

Emerald

Moderator
what Loren said - do a normal thru-hull with a nice interior strainer.

While you're at it, upsize it from 1/2" to 3/4" and put a proper flanged seacock on the other side. Replace the wood backing pad while you're at it with a new piece of epoxy coated exterior/marine grade plywood. If you have problems finding the right size thru-hull in a recess flush mount (was a special order for me), contact me back channel - I've got a left over from when I had an E-27 (have a terrible disease of buying "extras" for onhand future inventory).
 

Glyn Judson

Moderator
Moderator
Strainer pipe size.

Marcus,

David makes a good point, be sure that you increase the raw water intake from 1/2" to 3/4 (the minimum size made to fit a proper seacock). My boat had a 1/2" through hull fitting and gate valve when I first took delivery almost 13 years ago. I was new to inboards and accepted the steam that came out with the exhaust and water. Shortly thereafter I hauled, and replaced that fitting with a 3/4" seacock, used USCG approved 5/8" hose coupled with full flow bronze fittings to and from a Groco strainer and more of those fittings and approved hose to my raw water pump. The result was that I had greater water flow from the exhaust and no steam to speak of. Give it all a try. Good luck, Glyn Judson, E31 hull #55, Marina del Rey, CA.
 

marcusn

Member II
Freshwater?

Just wondering -
knowing I'll only ever be sailing her in Lake Michigan, do I still need to worry so much about upgrading to 3/4?

Also, is the Atomic 4 able to intake 3/4?

Thanks,

mn
 

Glyn Judson

Moderator
Moderator
Installing a 3/4" through hull fitting.

Marcus, If you plan to upgrade to a seacock (the smartest and safest thing to do) as opposed to fitting a tapered thread ball valve (a real no-no), you haven't any choice but to replace everything with 3/4" hardware. Why is that? Because the smallest seacock commonly available to us is 3/4". As far as mating the hose and barb to your A-4 is concerned, a 5/8" barb can be readily found at West Marine or other large chandler with 1/2" threads that probably are what you'll need for the pump on your engine. Yes, the size of that fitting is reduced at the pump but all smaller diameter restrictions will have been done away with by using the larger plumbing hardware and hoses up stream, the result being that more unrestricted water volume will be avaliable for use at the pump. Glyn Judson, E31 hull #55, Marina del Rey, CA
 

marcusn

Member II
upgrading to 3/4"

I have to admit it... I'm a complete novice with larger boats (this e27 is a huge jump from my (formerly owned) Mariner 19'.

I'd really like to keep it simple, and keep the 1/2".
But
If I were to upgrade to 3/4, I'm thinking I'd have to drill out the threaded hull 'casing' that currently accepts the 1/2" thru hull. I'm not sure how this fiberglass/casing is working. The 1/2" thru hull screws in thru the hull, and I'm not sure how to open it up to 3/4".

thoughts?

-Marcus
 

Glyn Judson

Moderator
Moderator
Enlarging a through hull fitting hole in your hull.

Marcus, There are two simple ways I know of to do this. If you want the larger 3/4" hole to be exactly slap-dab in the same place as the existing 1/2" one, buy a tepered wooden plug at West marine that you can pound into the 1/2" hole. Mark where it exits the hull with a pencil all the way around the plug, remove it and make a saw cut on or slightly outboard of that mark. Reinsert the shortened plug and mark the center of it with an awl or ice pick. Now use a 3/4" hole saw with pilot drill to exactly cut out a larger hole. The plug will keep everything centered and within seconds you'll have the 3/4" hole in your hull. If you can live with the hole being 1/8" off center then simply use that same 3/4" hole saw and cradle the bottom teeth in the bottom of the existing 1/2" hole. Using a variable speed drill (aren't they all like that today?) cut a new hole slightly (1/8") higher than the original. Tilt the drill down a bit so only the bottom teeth of the saw begin to cut the new hole. As it bites in, level the drill and finish the hole. That's the easiest and fastest way to cut a new hole, I've done it that way many, many times. Marcus, you really need to replace what's there with the proper plumbing, a 3/4" seacock. The problem with using a 1/2" through hull fitting (straight threads) and adding a simple ball valve (tapered pipe threads at both ends) is that the threads will only engage to a depth of about two threads rendering the assembly extremely vulnerable to any side blow which could result in the ball valve snapping right off the end of the through hull fitting, something none of us want to have happen in our waking hours, only in our nightmares. If you plan to have family or firends aboard, consider their safety and do it the porper way with a seacock. If tragedy were to occur, you'd never forgive yourself for not spending what would be chump change compared to injury or loss of life by reinstalling 1/2" mismatched plumbing. Do the right thing, Glyn Judson, E31 hull #55, Marina del Rey, CA
 

RCsailfast

E35-3 Illinois
As a short term solution could the grate be cut out without weakening the through hull for better water flow?

I ask because our through hull is blocked by a cradle pad. Could carefully cut part of the pad off but wouldn’t gain full access to the complete fitting. I already plan on installing a perko filter under the sink.
 

toddster

Curator of Broken Parts
Blogs Author
Wow, dipping into a 12 year old conversation... Not exactly sure what you’re asking?
Cutting the grating away wouldn’t improve flow because the area of the grating holes is already greater than the area of the pipe. Which in turn is greater than the area of the water pump intake on an A4.

My grating was half-rotten, so I just cut it all away and let the strainer in the engine compartment do the work. (On the rare occasions that the through-hull got blocked by sea weed, I just opened a bypass fitting and blew into it - No great bugling talent was required and gratifying bubbling noises ensued.)

If your pad is blocking the through-hull. (Funny how that always happens...) just put a boat stand or two nearby to take up the load and back-off the offending pad. You have to do it to paint, anyway.
 

RCsailfast

E35-3 Illinois
Toddster thanks for the reply. Didn’t realize I replied to an ancient thread. Must have ran across it when looking for strainer recommendations, or the other thread about strainers and through hull sizes.
Just saying I search allot before asking questions.

Basically I would rather empty a strainer basket then try and clear a grate. I noticed it just before it splashed, before we bought the boat last year. The lack of strainer was also noted on the boat inspection and was on my list for the off season projects.

You more than answered my question. I will just cut out the cradle pad and grind out the grid and add a strainer.

Adding jack stands and lowering the pad isn’t an option. We put all new cradle pads on last fall and the adjustment nuts are frozen solid. Tried soaking with PB Blaster and big pipe wrenches with no success. The previous owner used drywall screws to hold packing foam on the really old plywood pads resting with hull gouges under all of them. Thankfully Larsen Marine noticed it at repaired everything on the spot and it won’t happen again. Sorry to babble but it still gets under my skin.
 

Kevin A Wright

Member III
As long as we are replying to ancient threads, I'm with the replace it with a 3/4 with an inboard screen crowd. Had a devil of a time with the original one on my E27. With the A4 it would plug up every fall when the eel grass was dying off and floating around. Once I switched to a diesel, not only did it plug all the time, but the inlet was too small and my inlet hose would partially collapse from the draw of the raw water pump. The increased velocity of the raw water demand on the diesel would jam the eel grass into those tiny holes so deep I couldn't scrub them off with the boat brush and several times had to sail back to the slip and hook a freshwater hose onto the intake to back flush it. Got so bad I made up an emergency substitute raw water intake with the plug from my knot meter paddlewheel that I was able to swap out while underway. Needless to say once I figured out what the problem was I hauled out next season and replaced the damn thing.

Just looking at that little bugger brings back very unpleasant memories. One of the very very few bad experiences I had with the E27.

Kevin Wright
E35 Hydro Therapy
 
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