AC drain and micro wave oven

I have a "Webasto" AC unit on our 32-3 that can turn the cabin into a meat locker if I let it. The small problem that I'm having is that the unit drains into the bilge. I been wanting to keep the bilge dry but this is not going to happen when I run the AC. The marine HVAC guy just ran the drain into where the old unit did, I guess. I was thinking of putting a small through hull in above the water line, if possible, to run the AC drain through. Has anyone ever done this with their boat?

Also, on a completely different subject, if you have a 32-3 and use a small micro wave oven where do you keep it? I've thought long and hard about where to put one and the only place I can think of in in the gas oven space. Our oven dose not work and we'd probably not use it if it did. But there have been plenty of times when we could have used a micro wave. Only at the dock, of course.

ac drain

there is a kit that will allow the condensation water to be pumped overboard with the cooling water thru the same fitting. its a simple change where you just cut the cooling water overboard hose and install inline. the condensation drain hose tees into this fitting. its a simple fitting with no moving parts and works by using Bernoulli's Principle. (venturi and pressure drop)

http://mermaidmarineair.com/marine-division/mermaid_condensator.html

i have run one for a couple of seasons with no problems....

Bought one.

Just bought one on-line with Defender for $190. Thanks for the tip!

Bud, we have been trying to figure out where to put a small M/W. Our boat is a bit different then yours but it looks like you have found the perfect spot. Questions, is that white plastic (like a cutting board) that you used for the shelf? How did you support the shelf? And how did you secure the appliance to the shelf?
Sorry for all the ?'s but I just gotta know. Thanks,

Well, it’s a pretty simple really. The white board is a piece of pre painted pressed board shelving with a “Bull nose” front that you can find at Home Depot or Lowe’s. Have them cut it down to an inch or so longer then your M/W. I spray painted the cut end white so it wouldn’t stand out.
I also bought the shortest length of 2”X2” dimensional lumber and cut those to a length that supports the back (along the wall) in a manner that makes the top level with the front (Bull nosed end) resting on the coaming. You can’t just put the 2X2’s up against the back wall as it runs at an angel so just move it out a bit so it’s sitting on the floor of the coaming and the table top is level. When you get the 2X2’s cut to the right height, use a little white glue and a 1 1/2 “ dry wall screw and screw from the top of the table into each leg.
Put the shelf back in place and you will want two 1” corner braces (While the table is out attach a corner brace to each of the 2X2 legs so that when you put it back you can screw it down into the floor of the coaming.
Now when you reposition the table on top of the coaming simply screw in the four remaining screws (two into the back of the coaming and two into the floor of the coaming) and your shelf is secure.
On our boat I had to take a hole saw and make a hole for the plug end of the cord to pass through the wood divider between the nav station and the dinette area as the closest plug was in the nav station.
At Home Depot I bought two heavy duty bungee cords that wrap around the M/W and under the shelf the long way that hold the M/W tight to the shelf.
Hope this is somewhat clear. I could take some more pictures this weekend if that would help.

Thanks Bud for the detailed description. Photo's would be great but I think I get it. If you ever get up our way (Spokane) let me know. We can go out on Windfall for a sail. I think my wife will be happy to have a M/W again. Pretty handy for a quick cup of tea when plugged in at the Marina.