bigtyme805
Member III
Just had my 2 blade replaced with a 3 blade in the water, very easy. What a difference it makes, especially in reverse. I went with Max-Prop. Remember when you change to the 3 blade you will have to lower pitch. On mine the specs for 2 blade were 13 x 10 and for 3 blade they recommended 13 x 9.
tenders
Innocent Bystander
The prop is pounded onto the shaft, which has a slight taper to it, and it's held on by two bronze nuts tightened against each other and a cotter pin.
Replacing it shouldn't be hard IF you have the right tools, a way to lock the shaft in place while tightening the nuts, and the old prop hasn't frozen to the shaft to a point at which it requires heat to loosen.
If it were me, I'd do it myself if on the hard but in the water I'd pay a diver. Here's why: if I do it right I risk rusting out some tools. If I don't do it right I drop the prop, nuts, or tools into the water, end up with a vibrating prop which will screw up my cutless bearing, and/or risk having important stuff shear off at the worst possible moment.
Replacing it shouldn't be hard IF you have the right tools, a way to lock the shaft in place while tightening the nuts, and the old prop hasn't frozen to the shaft to a point at which it requires heat to loosen.
If it were me, I'd do it myself if on the hard but in the water I'd pay a diver. Here's why: if I do it right I risk rusting out some tools. If I don't do it right I drop the prop, nuts, or tools into the water, end up with a vibrating prop which will screw up my cutless bearing, and/or risk having important stuff shear off at the worst possible moment.
bigtyme805
Member III
I had my dive service do it, no problems at all.
WhiteNoise
Member III
Beware, Be wise, Be happy
Of course having someone do it is easy and a fine option if that suits you but I would agree with tenders.
As someone who is hands on with all my boat projects (I want to know the ins and outs of everything aboard) and speaking from experience in this matter, I would caution against doing it youself while in the water, epecially if you are installing a feathering/folding. But I would encourage you to do it yourself.
I've recently installed a 15" two blade Max-Prop and setting blade angle and pitch is challenging on the hard with two hands. I couldn't imagine doing it in the water, not impossible but not something I would want to attempt unless in a dire situation. I did it on the hard with 4 hands and 4 eyes on the manual, haha.
That being said it is a project that I think anyone is capable of and would encourage you to do it yourself. I would just spend a little for a short haul and if you are installing feathering/folding read the instructions thoroughly beforehand.
Additionally, if your prop has been in the water for any period time, it will probably not just slide off. There will have to be some "negotiations" which should not be done with a mallet. Not only will you potentially bend you original prop but you could bend the shaft or damage the cutlass bearing. If you have to give it a "tap" for any reason you should be sure not to touch the blades.
To make the removal easier I would suggest you purchase a bearing puller. A tool you can find an most automotive suppliers. Should only be around $30.
I hope that helps and wish you luck with your project.
-Chris
Of course having someone do it is easy and a fine option if that suits you but I would agree with tenders.
As someone who is hands on with all my boat projects (I want to know the ins and outs of everything aboard) and speaking from experience in this matter, I would caution against doing it youself while in the water, epecially if you are installing a feathering/folding. But I would encourage you to do it yourself.
I've recently installed a 15" two blade Max-Prop and setting blade angle and pitch is challenging on the hard with two hands. I couldn't imagine doing it in the water, not impossible but not something I would want to attempt unless in a dire situation. I did it on the hard with 4 hands and 4 eyes on the manual, haha.
That being said it is a project that I think anyone is capable of and would encourage you to do it yourself. I would just spend a little for a short haul and if you are installing feathering/folding read the instructions thoroughly beforehand.
Additionally, if your prop has been in the water for any period time, it will probably not just slide off. There will have to be some "negotiations" which should not be done with a mallet. Not only will you potentially bend you original prop but you could bend the shaft or damage the cutlass bearing. If you have to give it a "tap" for any reason you should be sure not to touch the blades.
To make the removal easier I would suggest you purchase a bearing puller. A tool you can find an most automotive suppliers. Should only be around $30.
I hope that helps and wish you luck with your project.
-Chris
Last edited:
Randy Rutledge
Sustaining Member
If you do it in the water find a shallow clam spot and anchor fast or tie up to something. Use a piece of pipe and a piece of rope to hold the shaft to loosen and tighten the nuts, make a short loop in the rope and place it over one blade of the prop and stick the pipe through it as the shaft turns the pipe will come in contact with the shaft will tighten the loop against the pipe giving you leverage to hold the shaft. Have a can of WD-40 and paper towels ready to wipe the tools.
The prop will probably come off with pressure from the puller and a slight tap. Be aware of the square stock key that fits in a groove in the shaft and the inside of the prop. Have a couple of friends hold a towel under the prop as you work to catch the stuff you drop and if you can lay a tarp on the bottom to catch things it will be easier than finding stuff in the sand, mud , rocks or whatever bottom you are standing on.
Steps
1 Remove cotter pin
2 Remove the nut/nuts
3 Remove the Prop (catch the square key)
4 Turn the shaft so the grove in the shaft is up so gravity helps hold the key in place during reinstall
5 Slide the new prop on the end of the shaft about an inch and place the square key in the grove in the shaft and whild holding the key in place slide the prop on aligning the grove in the prop with the key. WHen the prop is in place make sure the prop feels solid and does not wobble or it is not seated..
6 tighten the nut/nuts and replace the cotter pin.
& hoist anchors take her out and have an amber beverage.
The prop will probably come off with pressure from the puller and a slight tap. Be aware of the square stock key that fits in a groove in the shaft and the inside of the prop. Have a couple of friends hold a towel under the prop as you work to catch the stuff you drop and if you can lay a tarp on the bottom to catch things it will be easier than finding stuff in the sand, mud , rocks or whatever bottom you are standing on.
Steps
1 Remove cotter pin
2 Remove the nut/nuts
3 Remove the Prop (catch the square key)
4 Turn the shaft so the grove in the shaft is up so gravity helps hold the key in place during reinstall
5 Slide the new prop on the end of the shaft about an inch and place the square key in the grove in the shaft and whild holding the key in place slide the prop on aligning the grove in the prop with the key. WHen the prop is in place make sure the prop feels solid and does not wobble or it is not seated..
6 tighten the nut/nuts and replace the cotter pin.
& hoist anchors take her out and have an amber beverage.