Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 19

Thread: Awlgrip or Interlux perfection?

  1. #1
    Contributing Member II raslocum's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    North Texas
    Posts
    24

    Awlgrip or Interlux perfection?

    My e-25 is now ready for paint after literally weeks of prepping and sanding. After this much work, any cost differences in paint are irrelevant. I want the absolute longest lasting, most durable stuff I can get. I don't want to do this again for many, many years, if ever.

    Where I live, we have West Marine in several locations. For interlux paint, Its an easy run to the store to get the paint I need, but they don't sell Awlgrip. Even the clerk at the store sheepishly told me that Awlgrip is a better paint. Is this really true, or is this a common opinion because Awlgrip has been around the industry longer. The Interlux perfection appears to be the same type of 2 part polyurethane product. I wouldn't even consider it except that I will have to fedex the other paint and thinners in from another source. Kind of sucks for me if I run low of anything in the process.

    Has anyone had experience in both of these paint types?

    By the way, I'm spraying. I hear all this talk about awesome results with roller and tip or brush. That would make my life easier probably but I've never seen a brushed on car finished that I didn't laugh at.

  2. #2
    Principal Partner
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Ellsworth, ME
    Posts
    769
    Just to throw another contender into the confusion - I used Detco Sterling paint because I'd heard a lot of people rave about it.

    I've been very happy with the results, but I don't have anything to compare it to myself.

    Nate

  3. #3
    Principal Partner
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Location
    So Cal
    Posts
    651
    Blog Entries
    3
    I've used Awlgrip, Sterling, and Imron both brushed and sprayed.
    I would go with Awlgrip.

    Martin

  4. #4
    Contributing Partner JORGE's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    LONG ISLAND
    Posts
    113
    I read about a paint job on @triton381.com, plus he did a huge amount of restoration to the deck, something I have known first hand with my E32 deck work. I had to rebuild a great deal of it. The triton381 used Awlgrip, he explains the details.
    However, I am probably going to use Perfection since my whole deck has been preped with Epoxy Primekote(the primer of choice) for Perfection, and I will brush it on the smooth areas(no brush marks).

    Probably will use epoxy/silica/microballoon mix for the non-skid surfaces with plastic grid screen since my non-skid is gone or just roller it on, as explained @ triton381.

    Please research your primers too.

  5. #5
    Principal Partner treilley's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Portland, ME
    Posts
    1,625
    I am in the middle of stripping and repainting my spars. I am using interlux products all the way through to the final 2 coats of Perfection.

    Spraying vs. roll/tip: Many people use the roll/tip method(as I will) because it is much easier to get a better result than with spraying if you do not have a lot of spraying experience. Unless you spray cars at Maaco for a living you are very likely to get a better finish with roll/tip. Also be sure to have a very high quality respirator or the paint will kill you. I mean a professional quality air fed respirator. Nothing Home Depot sells. BTW, the key to getting the paint to look good with either method is thinning and environment. Tim Lackey(Glissandro) can tell you how much paint he wasted by trying to paint a mast outdoors. So make sure you do this on a day when the temp/humidity are right and constant so you can thin properly.
    Tim R.
    Living aboard in Portland, Maine
    TKR on a boat Blog
    Boat Projects and Photos
    -----------------------------------------------------

  6. #6
    Contributing Member III
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Chelan, Wash.
    Posts
    57
    Jorge,
    Great point! If it hasn't ever had a barrier coat applied then this might be the time to do it. It would be a pitty to do all that work only to find that the original gel coat or old barrier coat has been abraided by sanding, scraping and the cracking of age to find blisters aften a year of being in the water. Of course if it one of those rare cases of a stored trailer boat this might not be so important, but then you change modes of storage to a slip, and the whole course fo sanding and painting was for not. We are talking about the hull here? - Chris

  7. #7
    Moderator
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Annapolis, MD
    Posts
    1,829
    I think I would go with the Awlgrip (have it on Emerald). I hate the "I have a friend reference", but, I have a friend very experienced painting boats, and his feedback is the Awlgrip is much harder than any of its competition. This translates into durability.

    .
    -David
    Independence 31
    Emerald

  8. #8
    Principal Partner treilley's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Portland, ME
    Posts
    1,625
    Don't rule out Imron. It is hard but can also be polished where I do not think Awlgrip can be. Here is how my boat looks after 18 years. It was painted with Imron.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Tim R.
    Living aboard in Portland, Maine
    TKR on a boat Blog
    Boat Projects and Photos
    -----------------------------------------------------

  9. #9
    Moderator
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Annapolis, MD
    Posts
    1,829
    You are correct that Awlgrip does not like to be machine buffed. The Awlgrip Awlcare is somewhat like a hand applied cleaner wax in the way it performs (but it has nothing to do with wax). I do have a couple blemishes that didn't come out with the Awlcare this winter, and I am getting ready to try to buff them by hand. If interested, I'll get my rear moving and do this by the end of the weekend and post back as to success or not.


    BTW, she does look very nice


    .
    -David
    Independence 31
    Emerald

  10. #10
    1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Nanaimo, British Columbia, Canada on Vancouver Island
    Posts
    1,916

    Tim, I just don't understand....

    Tim,
    I just don't understand why you are trying to sail such a beautiful boat in the woods!!!! I think she'd look even better in the water where she belongs.
    Frank.

  11. #11
    Principal Partner Chris Miller's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Saint Leonard, Md
    Posts
    686
    Interlux & Awlgrip are both part of the same company. Not sure how that works out between the 2 products-- maybe call one of their tech lines and ask?

    We're using perfection on the mast... fwiw.

    Chris
    Chris Miller :cartmann:
    S/V [I]Sequoia[/I]
    1988 38-200 Hull #262
    [URL="http://svsequoia.blogspot.com/"]http://svsequoia.blogspot.com/[/URL]

  12. #12
    Contributing Member II raslocum's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    North Texas
    Posts
    24

    more questions

    Quote Originally Posted by treilley View Post
    Don't rule out Imron. It is hard but can also be polished where I do not think Awlgrip can be. Here is how my boat looks after 18 years. It was painted with Imron.
    So the consensus is Awlgrip, but I'm curious about the Imron. A decade ago, I used to paint cars. I've shot a number of dupont paint systems. I know that Imron is supposed to be the most durable of their finishes. I've never considered using it on a boat. No doubt it is uv resistant, it works brilliantly on aircraft for many, many years, but I wasn't sure about its durability, especially for say a top deck?

    Also, seriously, this roller and tip method is comparable to spay? I've only seen two boats that appeared to be done this way. Honestly, they looked like absolute crap. A house painter could have done a better job. I'm sure they were bad examples. Anybody have some good up close photos - bad or good? I actually have more experience shooting cars than I do brushing anything, but considering I'm not in a controlled paint booth, but outdoors working on this thing, and I've never shot anything of this size, or this brand of paint, maybe the cards are stacked against me. Perhaps I should at least look at it. Since I'm having to also do my top deck, I'm starting to wonder if i wound'n't get a thicker mil. thus more durable finish by brush. Seeing brush marks will drive me banannas after this much prep work though.

  13. #13
    Moderator
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Annapolis, MD
    Posts
    1,829
    Hi,

    I'm like you in that I've done some automotive paining, but it's been a long time. I also agree that I haven't seen a roll tip job that looked good, but I've only seen two, so I don't have a reference of whether it was the guys doing it or not. They (two different boats) thought it looked great. I thought it looked terrible, but glossy. I am thinking if you have spraying experience, try it. Do the transom first. You can stop if it's a disaster and only have one small surface to recover. This may sound nuts, but I've had decent success spraying out doors where I soaked the ground all around with water. This has helped keep the dust contamination to acceptable levels. Obviously, it must be a windless day. The other thing to remember is this is not a show car. Usually you're at least 5 feet from the sides of the boat, probably closer to 10. I call this the 10 foot concourse. Only you need to know about the bugs that fly into the paint


    .
    -David
    Independence 31
    Emerald

  14. #14
    1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Nanaimo, British Columbia, Canada on Vancouver Island
    Posts
    1,916

    If bugs fly into your paint...

    I have painted two boats outdoors (both turned out very well, with people asking if they were new boats), and David is right about small bugs flying into the paint (see his post above).

    If that happens, resist the urge to try to pick them out while the paint is wet. I have found that it's better (though not for the bug!) to wait until the paint is dry, and then if you rub it very lightly with a cloth, the bug will generally come off easily, without leaving any noticeable mark in the paint.

    Good luck!
    Frank.

  15. #15
    Principal Partner jkm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    venice beach
    Posts
    401
    I have one old car painted with Lacquer and another with Imron.

    Imron was harder to work with and less forgiving in the install.

    Over time I found that both finishes are extremely hard, keep their color superbly and durable.

    What this has about sailboat hulls I don't know. That said my lacquer is very easy to repair. I would consider the merits of repair "friendliness" as vitale to my decision on what paint to use.
    John Mc Manamy
    Penguin
    35'-2 #277
    Venice Beach, Ca

Similar Threads

  1. 'Kunu' gets new Awlgrip hull
    By CaptDan in forum The Raftup
    Replies: 25
    Last Post: 11-27-2008, 08:59 AM
  2. Awlgrip care
    By Quiet Magic in forum Maintenance & Mechanical
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 04-20-2007, 10:42 PM
  3. Awlgrip painter
    By Ondine in forum Ericsons Southern California
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 02-18-2007, 05:26 PM
  4. Cost of Awlgrip ?
    By Sven in forum Maintenance & Mechanical
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 12-28-2005, 07:53 PM
  5. Awlgrip Maintenance
    By chrism in forum Maintenance & Mechanical
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 11-24-2004, 01:20 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •