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E35-3 Cutlass bearing

JORGE

Member III
PYI.com or johnson(duramax), buckalgonquin.com( stuffing boxes,etc), another hamiltonmarine.com
I'm sure I saw it described in the E35-3 manual.pdf on this site.

I replaced mine( E32) last year, it did Not have a set screw, but some bearings are set with a screw. Watch for it carefully.

The shaft had alot of play in it, cost several bills to replace including a stuffing box and prop relignment/ balancing.
First !!.... the shaft was out, bec I replaced the engine and shaft.
I made a tool following Nigel Calders information in his "mechancial/electrical" book.
I used a hack saw and sliced the internal part of the bearing in a few places, it did not budge.
I applied MAP gas torch heat to the outside, and then used the tool(puller) and lots of lubricant. It took some effort and time.

Good idea to freeze it before re inserting it into the sleeve. It should fit in perfectly.

lub and reinsert the shaft.
 

treilley

Sustaining Partner
Thanks. Got it. Hopefully I will be able to remove the shaft without removing the rudder.
 

treilley

Sustaining Partner
The closest quality bearing I can find is 1/8" too long. What do you think? I'm thinking it should be fine if a little hangs out the end.
 

tenders

Innocent Bystander
The closest quality bearing I can find is 1/8" too long. What do you think? I'm thinking it should be fine if a little hangs out the end.

I agree. I wouldn't try to cut it down, either -- the heat and perturbation from doing so might cause the rubber to detach from the bearing. 1/16 of an inch on either end is pretty close.
 

JORGE

Member III
MY rudder was mounted at the time when I removed the cutlass and the shaft was not yet installed either.
You only need to verify the outside diameter (OD) and inside diameter of the cutlass for the shaft size.

My cutlass bearing is the johnson"acid" model for my E32, is probably 1/2 -5/8" too long. the mechanic said it would not present a problem. It is fine.

You could also check on torresen.com they have techncal advise forum and parts.

If you can remove the prop, the shaft could be removed ( if you are able to disconnect the coupling and stuffg box, FIRST.)
There is another way.
Following Nigel Calders Mechanical & electrical book, he explains about removing the cutlass with the shaft stilll in position. Using a homemade piping tool but you must remove the prop anyway. Removing the shaft is another time consuming process, it was a real pain in my neck.

I would remount the transmission and shaft coupling using anti seize on the bolts. MORE work.
 

treilley

Sustaining Partner
Well this is part of the bigger plan that includes installation of a Lasdrop shaft seal and a Flexofold prop. The shaft seal and the prop I can do without removing the shaft but I do not think the bearing will come out without the shaft first being removed. I have heard of peopl trying to hammer it out with heat and a split section of pipe but I am not comfortable using a hammer on the shaft strut. So, removing the rudder may be necessary although it could probably use bearing service also as the rudder does not turn as freely as I would like.
 
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