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Kenyon boom question

WhiteNoise

Member III
I have a Kenyon boom on my 30+. At the mast end of the boom I have exits for my two reef lines. There is an additional bolt next to the sheaves that an avid sailing friend of mine mentioned may have had a rope stopper as an option. This would be something that I would like to get if it does exist.

Has anyone seen this or have this on their boom? Anyone know where to get it. I don't see any such part mention on RigRite.com

Thanks.

-Chris
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Kenyon part / model ?

http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?t=2599&referrerid=28

Does your gooseneck look anything like the one in reply #6 in this thread?
This the Kenyon set up on my '88 model.

Mine has a center sheave for the tail of the outhaul. There is a sheave on either side of that for first and second reef lines. The stock cams intended for the reef lines do not work very well, either...
:rolleyes: They would let the line slip. As cam cleats go, they are not as good, IMO, as a double-cam like a Harken, and nowhere near as effective as the clutch stoppers aft on my housetop.

Can you put up a picture, maybe?

Best,
Loren
 
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WhiteNoise

Member III
You got it!

You're dead on. If that's not it, it's damn close ... and there's the stopper!You said it does not work well? This is on your boat?
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Similar to your gooseneck fitting (from what shows in the pic), our outhaul line leads back to a cleat under the boom. My two reefing lines lead straight down to turning blocks and then back to clutch stoppers on the housetop.
The original Kenyon cams are quite stiff and do not grip very well even when manually engaged. All this stuff was badly seized up with corrosion when we bought the boat and I dismantled the boom and all fittings to clean and lube all the parts right after we got the boat. (I cannot blame that all on the spar supplier... the boat sat unused for three years in a salt atmosphere before we bought it and started refurbishing everything.)

I would not be supprised if your boom on that "monster main" on your fractional 30+ is almost identical to the boom for my masthead rig on our O-34.

I always find it interesting just how many parts Ericson used off the shelf when they put the Olsons (25, 911S, and 34) into production for a couple of years. :)

Best,
Loren

ps: Sean's web site-building expertise, combined with the general availability of digital cameras is Really Helpful, what with owners scattered all over the globe !
 
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WhiteNoise

Member III
"Monster main", well you said it. At 275 sq. ft., if my memory serves me correctly, I have to reef at about 20 knots. (15 if I don't want my wife to freak;). But in the summers on the Long Island Sound it is wonderful to have the available sail area as winds can become quite light.

After some more searching I was able to find the parts on RigRite.com.

I am going to lead my outhaul back to the cockpit. I think I may order the parts to add the rope stoppers to my boom. Worst case they are a good backup. You said they don't grip well. What are your experiences?
 

Chris Miller

Sustaining Member
We've got those cams- they just hang loose... I'm too lazy to take them off, but I'd never trust them. I'd do another turning block at the mast base and run it through the organizer back to the cockpit to a cam cleat or a clutch. reef line is about the last thing I want to let go when it's blowing. another option would be to install a cam cleat back on the boom for it.
just my $0.015
Chris
 

ted_reshetiloff

Contributing Partner
The cams in those applications can be dangerous. You can lose a finger on one of those things in a blow. You will always need to run the reefing lines back to a winch anyway to get the tension anyway so why not go to the deck clutch? Much safer and will not slip like these boom cams do. Are you thinkign you will use the cabintop winch to tension then send someone up there to engage the came while you or someone else eases the reefing line? I threw mine in the trash, but I would not use these things even if they were new. As for the outhaul I would suggest some searching on this site as I posted a thread on redoing mine. It was originally led aft but I redid it. I changed it to 12:1 and led it out the old topping lift exit. I have a loose footed main and the added purchase allows me to tweak the draft down low easily under load.
 

WhiteNoise

Member III
Thanks

Thanks for all the input Loren, Chris, and Ted.

Ted, you've made a very valid point. I do like my fingers after all. I will rethink my approach to avoid using those clutches. I haven't heard a good thing about them to be honest. I was going that route only to clean up the deck but if it doesn't work well then what's the point. Also, RigRite got back to me with the price and they want way too much for something that doesn't look or sound like a strong product.

Again I appreciate everyone's input. I will probably end up running them back to the cockpit as I do use the reefs a good bit. Thanks again to all.

-Chris
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Kenyon boom outhaul stuck

Like Loren's (above), my boat was unused for a couple of years. The outhaul car is frozen in the boom slot (ss/aluminum) . Mysteriously, the outhaul line is also jammed somewhere inside the boom. The outhaul sheaves at boom end and mast end roll free, but somewhere inside the outhaul is caught. Is it a wire-to-rope slice in there (wire at the car, then dacron line where it exits the boom)?

How does one take such a boom apart?

Thanks--
 

Guy Stevens

Moderator
Moderator
Remove the screws that hold the ends on.

Take it apart by removing the mainsail. Then remove the pin that holds the forward end of the gooseneck to the mast.

Remove the boom from the boat using the topping lift if you have one to aid in boom removal.

Remove the 4 screws that hold each end on, remove the ends.

R&R The ends, or the track or what have you.

If the outhaul car can be removed but not reused, there are other ways to fasten the aft end of the sail to the boom. One of my favorites is a spectra gromit for the clew attachment.

Internally it is a multi part purchase 4:1 with rope originally with the wire attached to the aft most block, that then goes through the turning block at the end of the boom and attaches to the outhaul car.


Guy
:)
 
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Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
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Blue Chip

Member III
White Noise...interested in your reaction to rope clutches. I can't imagine saiing ithout them and frankly have not heard any bad experiences...BUT you can't buy a cheap one AND it must be located in the right place on the boat.
 

Guy Stevens

Moderator
Moderator
Reply to blue chip

White noise is talking specifically about the "clutches" at the forward end of a kenyon cast boom end.

As they say in radio.... They have never been ready for air time!"

Guy
:)
 

Rick R.

Contributing Partner
Locks in the end of the boom....

Ours are nearly locked up too.

I just leave them open and use a new rope clutch on the cabin top.

The outhaul car is also sticky. The sailmaker told us to spray WD40 on it but that doesn't sound like the best fix....
 

mherrcat

Contributing Partner
The outhaul car is frozen in the boom slot (ss/aluminum)[/quote}

Mine was like that about 4 years ago. After using a Dremel with a wire brush, some PB Blaster and banging the hell out of it with a hammer I was able to get it free. Cleaned up the slot, repainted the boom and now occasionally squirt some Kroil in the slot around the outhaul car. Seems to keep it free.
 

lnill

Member III
rope clutches

I don't use them but Rigrite does have the conversion kit.
New-Style Double Reef Cam Conversion Kit for 3756: K-11443:
Cam Conversion Kit for 3756 Gooseneck converts Old-Style Spring-Cam arrangement to the New-Style friction cam assembly. Kit includes everything necessary for 2 reef lines including Cam levers, adjustable friction washers, reef sheaves, SS spacers, Cover plates, bolts and locknuts. No machining is required. Individual components are listed separately, below.
3756_Gooseneck.html_txt_K-11443.gif
 
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