Ron, nice write-up and thanks for all of the details on your oil quality management. I wasn't aware of the oil disposal problem in the islands.
Oil viscosity and filter
- Thread starter Kim Schoedel
- Start date
Ron, nice write-up and thanks for all of the details on your oil quality management. I wasn't aware of the oil disposal problem in the islands.
Kim Schoedel
Member III
Thanks all for the input on oil and filter. I did the deed yesterday and all went well except for the time it took to pump out the old oil. Yep, I purchased a cheap ($18.00) hand pump. Took about an hour to pump out the old oil! And I had warmed the engine before doing this. Why oh why do I do stupid things like this. I know why, the hand pump allows you to pump the old stuff into a jug of your choice. I wanted to see how much oil I got out of the motor. Hence the 1 gal milk jug.
I think I will go back to the mechanical pump that is driven by a drill. The only problem is if you do not hold on to the pump it will rotate and pull the drain tube out of the dip stick and yep, you have used oil flying around. Not a pretty picture.
BTW the Universal oil filter is a lot smaller and easier to handle.
I think I will go back to the mechanical pump that is driven by a drill. The only problem is if you do not hold on to the pump it will rotate and pull the drain tube out of the dip stick and yep, you have used oil flying around. Not a pretty picture.
BTW the Universal oil filter is a lot smaller and easier to handle.
Filter system
I finally got into the engine compartment and took a few pictures of the bypass filter system I installed on Kismet. I was in there to service the heat exchanger anyway but that's another long, sad, tale of woe.
The first pic is the filter canister mounted on the bulkhead between the engine compartment and the engine. Clearance above the unit is important since the cap comes off to remove the filter. The blue hoses are the filter system lines.
The next is from the rear of the engine (bell housing in lower right) showing the tee at the oil pressure sender.
The third is a view from the companionway (top of the engine) looking aft.
The last is a view from the front of the engine showing the tee at the oil sump hose. The brownish line connects to the oil sump drain plug. The blue hose is the system return line. The other end of the tee is a pipe plug that I remove to change the oil.
Probably, maybe, someday, I'll permanently install an oil change pump on the bulkhead next to the filter canister so I can change the oil and filter while doubled over and crammed into the lazarette access hole. That way I'll be able to keep the mess where it will be near impossible to clean up.
I finally got into the engine compartment and took a few pictures of the bypass filter system I installed on Kismet. I was in there to service the heat exchanger anyway but that's another long, sad, tale of woe.
The first pic is the filter canister mounted on the bulkhead between the engine compartment and the engine. Clearance above the unit is important since the cap comes off to remove the filter. The blue hoses are the filter system lines.
The next is from the rear of the engine (bell housing in lower right) showing the tee at the oil pressure sender.
The third is a view from the companionway (top of the engine) looking aft.
The last is a view from the front of the engine showing the tee at the oil sump hose. The brownish line connects to the oil sump drain plug. The blue hose is the system return line. The other end of the tee is a pipe plug that I remove to change the oil.
Probably, maybe, someday, I'll permanently install an oil change pump on the bulkhead next to the filter canister so I can change the oil and filter while doubled over and crammed into the lazarette access hole. That way I'll be able to keep the mess where it will be near impossible to clean up.
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Richard Elliott
Member III
Oil Changes
The Universal M25 takes 3 1/2 quarts of oil. I have been using Royal Purple synthetic for several years due to big rig truckers' recommendations. However, like most posters I only change twice a year, changing after about 100 hours. Wix filters will not clear the alternator bracket on my engine, so I use Fram. BTW the non-skid coating on the end of the filter is very convenient.
The Universal M25 takes 3 1/2 quarts of oil. I have been using Royal Purple synthetic for several years due to big rig truckers' recommendations. However, like most posters I only change twice a year, changing after about 100 hours. Wix filters will not clear the alternator bracket on my engine, so I use Fram. BTW the non-skid coating on the end of the filter is very convenient.
Delo 400 LE (?)
Speaking of oil, it is time for our fall oil change and time also to buy some more gallons of this stuff, since we are down to our last spare gallon jug of Delo 400.
I use the 15-40 weight. Store now carries only the "improved" LE version and since the counter clerk knew nothing about it... I looked it up at some Chevron sites online and it seems to be the replacement for the older Delo 400.
Just got off the phone with a diesel mechanic friend, and he confirms that he has switched to this and he has studied all the certifications for it. Appears to be a changed formula to please the '07 lower-sulphur diesel engines, and is certified to be as good as ever for all the older ones.
So I shall look for a case lot deal on this.
Anyone else run into this little question?
Loren
(1988 M25XP with about 1900 hours)
Speaking of oil, it is time for our fall oil change and time also to buy some more gallons of this stuff, since we are down to our last spare gallon jug of Delo 400.
I use the 15-40 weight. Store now carries only the "improved" LE version and since the counter clerk knew nothing about it... I looked it up at some Chevron sites online and it seems to be the replacement for the older Delo 400.
Just got off the phone with a diesel mechanic friend, and he confirms that he has switched to this and he has studied all the certifications for it. Appears to be a changed formula to please the '07 lower-sulphur diesel engines, and is certified to be as good as ever for all the older ones.
So I shall look for a case lot deal on this.
Anyone else run into this little question?
Loren
(1988 M25XP with about 1900 hours)
Loren,
It would be difficult to go wrong with any heavy duty diesel rated oil. Delo 400 or Rotella T are readily available and appropriate for our marine-ised industrial engines. The standard is 15W-40 weight but the newer synthetics are offered in 5W-40 which flow better at lower temps. Not an issue for most of us..... RT
It would be difficult to go wrong with any heavy duty diesel rated oil. Delo 400 or Rotella T are readily available and appropriate for our marine-ised industrial engines. The standard is 15W-40 weight but the newer synthetics are offered in 5W-40 which flow better at lower temps. Not an issue for most of us..... RT