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Propeller shaft removal!

John Dawson

Please Contact Admin.
:egrin: I have an E-35 III that will be hauled out from the Chesapeake bay by ThanksGiving. After purchase of s/v Fantasea 2-years ago, I have had excessive vibrations over 2300 rpm. I know the max prop is too far back from the cutless -- over 3 inches -- also, the cutless has had it. I plan to replace the engine mounts, (Original Universal replaced in 1995 with a 23HP model 25XPA), cut the 1 inch shaft so the max prop is about an inch away from the cutless, and have the shaft checked for trueness while out. Now my question: MUST THE RUDDER BE DROPPED TO GET THE FLIPPIN SHAFT OUT?? :esad: Never dropped a rudder, and hope not too...
 
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Chris A.

Member III
I haven't pulled our prop shaft, but I think it would be necessary to drop the rudder. I HAVE dropped our rudder, and it's very easy (easier, I think than the rest of your project!). On the steering quadrant in the aft locker, loosen the eyebolts to take the tension out of the steering cable, then 4 bolts on the quadrant hub, and finally pull the fastener that is bolted through the center of the quadrant and across the rudder post. You can then lower the rudder straight down and out. There is a stuffing box right beneath the quadrant and above the fiberglass rudder tube, which may need to be loosened slightly to facilitate easy movement of the rudder.

With our deep draft keel, we only needed to scratch a 6 inch hole in the ground to lower the rudder enough to clear the hull. With a shoal draft I suppose you might need to dig a little deeper.

Good luck and let us know how your project goes. As far as vibration issues, don't forget shaft and engine alignment. Any interest in the shaft savers (flexible couplings)? This could change how much you would shorten the prop shaft.
 
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CaptnNero

Accelerant
hold that rudder !

...Now my question: MUST THE RUDDER BE DROPPED TO GET THE FLIPPIN SHAFT OUT?? :esad: Never dropped a rudder, and hope not too...

Hi John,

On our '88 E34 the prop shaft can be removed/installed without removing the rudder. As I recall from last spring I had to turn the helm to one side (sorry I don't remember) and then there was just enough clearance to slip the shaft past it without the prop of course.

A fellow who ran Cook's Marine in Herrington Harbor North gave me that tip and it worked. He said on most boats you don't have to drop the rudder as the shaft alignment is set with a slight bias to one side and the rudder can be turned a little to the other.

Possibly the most challenging part will be removing the flange from the forward end of the prop shaft. There are some threads on that. I think Guy Stevens had some important cautions and tips.

For the cutless bearing removal/install you can find another thread this year on that. Also, Tom Metzger published a picture of a homemade tool that he borrowed for that. The homemade tool closely resembles the professional tool that costs close to $300. I made something not as sophiticated with a few dollars worth of parts but the fancier homemade version will be easier to work with.

When working with the cutless bearing be very careful as the metal is very thin walled and can collapse if you aren't careful with a lubricated symmetric insertion.

Good luck.
 
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CaptnNero

Accelerant
...Any interest in the shaft savers (flexible couplings)? This could change how much you would shorten the prop shaft.

John,

We had a very good result with a flexible coupling and the PYI PSS dripless shaft seal. However if you go that route there is a high probability that the prop shaft will need to be replaced because of scoring from the old packing friction ending up in the critical area where the PSS seal o-ring goes.
 

Cory B

Sustaining Member
Shaft Removal

John,
We completely redid the drive train on our 35-III this last summer. We put in the PSS (love it), new shaft, cutlass bearing, and 3 blade maxprop, as well as new engine mounts. There is mild vibration at certain RPM levels, but very smooth on the upper end of things.

As to do you have to drop the rudder, we had to pull the rudder anyway. However, I noticed that the shaft was ever so slightly offset, and looked like it could probably be pulled without dropping the rudder if the rudder was turned "just so".

- Cory
 

Ray Rhode

Member III
John,

You can replace the shaft without removing the rudder. When we first tried it looked like we lacked a half inch of clearance, but once you remove the cutlass bearing you have enough clearance.

Ray Rhode
S/V Journey
E35-III, #189
 
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NateHanson

Sustaining Member
We had a max prop that was about 4" from the cutlass bearing with no resulting vibrations. On that boat (a Hinckley 38) the cutless was in the trailing edge of the keel, so we needed that room to mount zincs, but I guess on your boat you can put it forward of the strut, right? So no real reason not to shorten it, except that it might not be necessary for fixing your problem. I'd definitely look at engine mounting/alignment, replace the cutlass, and instal a drive-saver after the engine/shaft are properly aligned.

My 2c. :D
 

cawinter

Member III
E34 Situation

I had put saomething out a while back on my E34 project.

The new regular stuffing box (Buck Algonquin) with the PTFE packing and grease (3 wraps) is still performing GREAT. It is almost impossible for me to drip (comforting thought!), and the nut is not getting too hot either.:rolleyes: The PSS flex coupling also was a good investment along with the cutless bearing.

As stated elsewhere, the shaft came out fine. It is slightly offset to pass the rudder on the port side.
 

lbertran

Member III
Having The Same Work Done

on my 1985 E35-3. The yard mechanic feels the rudder has to be dropped. I'm ok with that because it's a chance to check ruder bushings etc. Anyone have suggestions as to what we should check for with the rudder dropped?
Laura Bertran
Footloose, 1985 E35-3
Annapolis
 

Frank Langer

1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
Others will have better information, but check the rudder carefully for any cracks or delamination--having the rudder out would be a good opportunity for any repairs.
Frank.
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Rudder maint.

Regarding the rudder inspection...
I agree about carefully looking at the seal around the shaft at the top.
See if it shows any signs of water going in... or exiting...
:rolleyes:

If in an real doubt, the yard can alway cut a 2 or 3 inch window into one side and inspect the armature. This would of course involve reglassing the opening thus created. I only mention that because a friend actually had his insurance co. ask for that particular inspection process on an early 80's 38' boat (not an Ericson).

When we had the rudder dropped for inspection, it passed all visual inspection, and the shaft was greased and it was reassembled. That was done in conjunction with having the keel rebedded.
The yard then generated a letter attesting to the condition of both the keel and rudder, just in case a future insurance company might get interested.

Regards,
Loren in PDX
 
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