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E38 deck construction in bow?

footrope

Contributing Partner
Blogs Author
Is the deck in the bow of the old E38s cored or solid fiberglass? There is a cleat right behind the bow roller, in that area forward of the anchor locker. It became loose and I noticed it last weekend. When I tightened it yesterday it looked like the deck compressed a little.

Looks like I should take it off and find out what is going on. I use the cleat for snubbing the anchor, and to route the rode to the starboard mooring cleat so that it does not ride on the leg of the bow pulpit.

Thanks,
 

u079721

Contributing Partner
Hmmm.....I never drilled into that part of the deck on my '89, and as you can see from the photo, ours did not have a cleat there.

But I thought I would include this photo to show how we delt with the problem you mention of having the anchor rode rub on the bow pulpit. This is a problem with any boat that does not have a centerline cleat, by the way. My solution was simply a 4 foot lenth of line and a rolling hitch - worked great.
 

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rwthomas1

Sustaining Partner
When I anchor my E38 I just use one cleat, either side, seems to work just fine. Steve thats a great solution. I will be working up a short piece of line for that purpose. RT
 

u079721

Contributing Partner
When I anchor my E38 I just use one cleat, either side, seems to work just fine. Steve thats a great solution. I will be working up a short piece of line for that purpose. RT

I'm not sure whether the force of the rode on the side of the pulpit would really have cause any damage. But the very first night I anchored Rag Doll I looked at the non-fair-lead from bow roller to cleat, and felt I had to do something. I just wouldn't have been able to sleep thinking about that nylon rode chafing on the pulpit all night. So I grapped a length of spare line, and used it every time I anchored after that.

It's a simple solution, but what does everyone else without a centerline cleat do? Just put up with the chafe?
 

CaptnNero

Accelerant
Nice rigging

...
It's a simple solution, but what does everyone else without a centerline cleat do? Just put up with the chafe?

Yes, I keep an eye on it and it does annoy me. Fortunately we haven't had nasty enough conditions to produce chafe but I also know that it's just a matter of time. I'll make up a piece like Steve did for our next time out.

Steve, thanks for your elegant solution. While preventing chafe it also perfectly distributes load !
 

lbertran

Member III
Chafe Guards

I use a couple of chafe guards that wrap around the rode and velcro shut. I use one at the anchor roller itself and the other at the bow pulpit stanchion. Takes 30 seconds to deploy and even quicker to remove. They can be purchased at any of the boat supply stores.
Laura Bertran
Footloose, 1985 E35-3
Annapolis, MD
 

Richard Elliott

Member III
Anchor Lead

My 1989 E34 has a boat trailer roller mounted vertically just ahead of the anchor locker to provide a straight lead to the windlass. It also works to keep the rode away from the pulpit.
 

u079721

Contributing Partner
My 1989 E34 has a boat trailer roller mounted vertically just ahead of the anchor locker to provide a straight lead to the windlass. It also works to keep the rode away from the pulpit.


Richard, if you get the chance why don't you post a photo of your rig - that sounds interesting.


By the way - I should have said 8 foot length of line, not 4. (My bad)
 

rwthomas1

Sustaining Partner
Heres a correction:
I don't run the anchor rode through the anchor roller. I cleat the anchor rode directly to the cleat, with chafe gear, and straight over the side. Line just lays on the rubrail a bit but the chafe gear takes care of it. The rode after the cleat then loops forward around the pulpit stanchion and back to the locker loosely. I have seen many others do the same thing and the boats all seem to lay correctly on their rodes. Is there a problem with this?
RT
 

footrope

Contributing Partner
Blogs Author
But ...

Why are anchor rollers so darn small? I would think that to maximize mechanical advantage they should be at least 4 or 5 inches in diameter, instead of 2 inches. It would be easier to pull up all that chain with a larger roller.

And what is all that other stuff on the bow, Steve? (Thanks for the pic, by the way) I recognize the strapping for jack lines. I also see a little ant bridge - that piece of line from the left pulpit to the furler spool. The black wire-looking thing on the right that leads down into the locker is intriguing, too.

I will report back on the bow construction maybe next week. I can only stand the suspense a little longer.

That's a very seaman-like solution, though. How do you tie a rolling hitch?
 

u079721

Contributing Partner
Heres a correction:
I don't run the anchor rode through the anchor roller. I cleat the anchor rode directly to the cleat, with chafe gear, and straight over the side. Line just lays on the rubrail a bit but the chafe gear takes care of it. The rode after the cleat then loops forward around the pulpit stanchion and back to the locker loosely. I have seen many others do the same thing and the boats all seem to lay correctly on their rodes. Is there a problem with this?
RT

I can't see a problem with it. In fact, on the rare occasion when I put out two anchors off the bow I run both rodes directly off the cleats as the boat seems to ride better than way. (Though in that case the rodes run out at an angle, not forward.)

One downside to doing it the way you describe for your main anchor is that you have to pull a bight of the line back from the tip of the roller to the side cleat when anchoring, and then route the line back over the roller when you want to haul the anchor in. As long as you put on a chafe guard it should be fine. BUT it doesn't seem to me that a well designed set up should require a chafe guard in normal anchoring - which is why I used my "on deck bridle" set up.
 

u079721

Contributing Partner
Why are anchor rollers so darn small? I would think that to maximize mechanical advantage they should be at least 4 or 5 inches in diameter, instead of 2 inches. It would be easier to pull up all that chain with a larger roller.

And what is all that other stuff on the bow, Steve? (Thanks for the pic, by the way) I recognize the strapping for jack lines. I also see a little ant bridge - that piece of line from the left pulpit to the furler spool. The black wire-looking thing on the right that leads down into the locker is intriguing, too.

I will report back on the bow construction maybe next week. I can only stand the suspense a little longer.

That's a very seaman-like solution, though. How do you tie a rolling hitch?


After all this discussion no one has yet answered Craig's orginal question about the bow construction!

As for a rolling hitch, you can find a good description of how to tie one here: http://www.apparent-wind.com/knots/rolling-hitch/

As for all the junk on my bow. Well, the black wire runs from a 12V outlet in the anchor locker up to one of those Davis LED anchor lights that I hung near the bow each night. I suspended the light on a line that ran from the forestay back to the genny sheets. It wasn't the brightest light in the anchorage, but it was 6 feet off the deck and very visible to passing boats.

The short length of line at the base of the starboard bow pulpit support is the line I used to tie to the shank of the Bruce anchor to hold it in place while underway. The black webbing is the jack line, and the black three stand going forward from the webbing to the forestay was an attempt to support the bow end of the jack line (later re-engineered).

Not sure what an "ant bridge" is supposed to be, but that short length of line on port leading from the pulpit is a tether for the retaining "safety snap" pin that I use to lock the Harken furling drum whenever I leave the boat. When sailing I stored the retaining pin on the pulpit, but figured the tether was a good idea to keep from dropping it overboard.
 

footrope

Contributing Partner
Blogs Author
I found dry plywood

The deck in the bow forward of the anchor locker door is cored with plywood. The deck is about 13/16" thick up there. I removed the cleat this afternoon. It was bedded with white silicone, which seems to have worked ok, because the core was dry. There is evidence of some core damage from the past, but not much. As a precaution I am going to leave it open for a few days.

Before I rebed I may get a piece of stainless steel to go under the cleat to provide a place to rest the end of the anchor stock. My 33# Bruce is just a little too short to rest on the cleat and it would wear on the gelcoat it I let it. I am also thinking about drilling out the holes, filling with thickened epoxy, and re-drilling. That would make anti-compression pads for the bolts too.

I appreciate all the replies. I might check out the Davis LED anchor light. That sounds cool. I'm sure for $100 I could get an LED replacement for the masthead bulb, too.
 
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Peregrine

Member II
Hooks on the Anchor Roller Bracket

I have often wondered about the hooks on the anchor roller bracket as seen in the picture in this thread. Does anyone use them for anything?

Tony

Peregrine Spirit
PSC Ericson 38
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Tony,
If you use a non-roller furling headsail, that is where you put the tack grommet at the front of your head sail.
Loren
 

u079721

Contributing Partner
Before I rebed I may get a piece of stainless steel to go under the cleat to provide a place to rest the end of the anchor stock. My 33# Bruce is just a little too short to rest on the cleat and it would wear on the gelcoat it I let it. I am also thinking about drilling out the holes, filling with thickened epoxy, and re-drilling. That would make anti-compression pads for the bolts too.
QUOTE]


I had the same concern with the stock of my 33# Bruce wearing on the deck. The PO's solution was to lash the end of the stock to the corner of the bow pulpit and suspend it in air. this sort of worked, but eventually the lashing would work loose enough to allow the end of the stock to hit the deck. I solved the problem by mounting a six inch long stainless steel rub strake on the deck just aft of the anchor roller (you can just make out the strake in the photo I posted).
 

footrope

Contributing Partner
Blogs Author
I see it (at first I wasn't looking close enough to the roller). Good idea.

I wrap a piece of 5/16 three strand around the base of the cleat and coil it around until it is out far enough to make a pad for the anchor stock. It takes about a foot and a half. I secure it by pulling the tail under the coil and back to the cleat. The cleat is normally used as a turning point for the anchor rode, rather than a tie point. I tie the anchor stock to it when the anchor is stowed, with a short piece of braid.
 

Dan Callen

Contributing Member III
Anchor line

On my Ericson 32-3, I just reach through the pulpit and by pass the anchor roller and tie directly to the cleat. This does put the rode at an angle to the cleat but I have never had a problem. Totally eliminates any chafe issue. Dan Callen Ericson 3213 Andiamo
 

footrope

Contributing Partner
Blogs Author
A Feature of the Stowed Pin

I went out to the boat today and took this picture of the bow roller and anchor. There is a pin that I use to keep the rope rode on the roller. In this picture the pin is in its stowed position. The pin is pretty long and when pushed all the way home it makes a nice place to rest the stock of the anchor. That keeps the end of the stock off the deck by about an inch.

I think I'll try this for awhile and check the wear on the pin and anchor. This looks like it will work in place of padding the deck in some way, but I'll keep an eye on it.

A friend and I also had a nice sail in Elliott Bay for about 2.5 hours this afternoon. About six to thirteen knot south winds. There was an E29 out there with us, but I didn't write down the name. Looked like they were having a good day too.
 

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