Cutlass bearing replacement

Thinking ahead somewhat, I need to replace my cutlass bearing on our E-32 (1987) which we just bought a few months ago. I'll be doing this sometimes after haul out near Thanksgiving, along with putting in a dripless stuffing box and maybe even a folding or feathering prop.

But the most important item on the list is the bearing. How are they mounted in the strut? Force fit? Set screws? Bubble gum? More importantly, how do I get it out? I'll probably be removing the rudder (to fix some delamination in the comfort of my garage this winter) and shaft (to install the stuffing box). I know never to pound on the strut least I break it's connection to the hull. I've seen an old posting on removing the bearing without removing the shaft but, like I say, I'll probably be pulling the shaft.

Any hints and advice would be appreciated.

Bob
E-32 (1987)
Vesper
Annapolis, MD

There are a couple of ways to do this but the most reliable method is to take the shaft out, assemble a hacksaw inside the strut so that the blade goes through the center of the old Cutless bearing, cut through the bearing in two places taking care not to cut into the strut, disassemble the hacksaw, then tap the bearing out. It sounds a little easier than it actually is.

On my '69 E32 the bearing and strut are just a press fit. I bought a very large clamp just for the purpose of squeezing the new bearing into the strut. I put antiseize compound inside the strut and outside the bearing to make myself feel better.

Another way to get the old bearing out is to stack appropriately-sized sockets that just fit inside the strut but on top of the bearing on one side, and larger sockets on the other side just large enough to press on the outer area of the strut but not the bearing. Tighten the giant clamp across the whole arrangment to press the bearing out.

Getting the bearing out *without* taking the shaft out does require removal of the prop. You then assemble a split pipe of appropriate size around the shaft and apply a sliding hammer to pull the bearing through. This supposedly the manner of choice for those with the equipment but I've never seen it done myself.

For me getting the shaft out of the engine coupling was a very difficult process that I hope I never have to do again.

A good spelling bee question.

My apologies to those former spelling bee contestants out there. :unsure: It was pointed out to me that “cutlass” the word I used is a large sword. The sort of thing Black Beard would use. CUTLESS is the correct spelling for a bearing that the shaft passes through.

Bob
E32-3
Vesper
Annapolis

"Cutlass" vs "Cutless"

This being the internet, the majority rules on all questions of fact.

Searches of this site indicate that "cutlass" is correct based on 50 posts vs 21 posts.

Google searches concur, 147K to 9.16K.

Stick that in your Funk & Wagnals.

Vetus calls theirs "cutlass" bearings.

Duramax calls theirs "cutless" bearings.

Most others call them "water lubricated strut bearings"

****************
I really do have to get a life when away from my boat.

Maybe thats one of those "metric" words, like colour,and centre.Guess you would need some Canadian or English input Harold

Hey Harold,
Are you sure it wasn't a Whitworth size?

(Just to throw a spanner into the works...)

LB

hacksaw trick

Tom Metzger said:

...
Most others call them "water lubricated strut bearings"

...

Click to expand...

There are always agnostics around for matters of such importance.
In the interest of avoiding future strife, I'm not going to say what I think it is. Besides that would immediately outdate Tom's stats, and I just couldn't do that to another member of the forum.

But seriously folks, I did the hacksaw blade trick last winter. It was not exhausting but it was a bit tedious when I got most of the way through the bronze of that water lubricated strut bearing aka cutless aka cutlass. The thought of scoring the bronze of the strut was worrisome.

However, when I'd made the two cuts about 45 degrees apart and started tapping inwards between them with a small chisel, the narrow bearing chunk started peeling up and the rest of bearing started collapsing. Then I used something akin to the socket trick over a threaded shaft to drive it out.

After that inserting the new bearing with the same threaded tool was very slow but straightforward.

I originally had gone to a local mechanic shop but they were very busy and volunteered some tips on how I should do it instead of just telling me to wait a few weeks.

The thought of scoring the bronze of the strut was worrisome.

Click to expand...

Neal - There is no reason to cut the strut. I told you how to do it in a previous thread. I even posted pix.

I would reference the thread, but I have no idea how to do it. Maybe when I'm older.

Tom Metzger said:

Neal - There is no reason to cut the strut. I told you how to do it in a previous thread. I even posted pix.

I would reference the thread, but I have no idea how to do it. Maybe when I'm older.

Click to expand...

Hi Tom,

Actually I think you mean strut bearing, not the strut itself.

It wasn't me you told. You see, when you posted my project was done. I did the project before I joined the forum in April this year. In my case I had to replace the prop shaft anyway so I removed it first. Then I could use a tool made from threaded rod, some washers, bolts, and pipe sections. Anyway the bearing didn't want to move much so I cut it to collapse it first.

The tool that you used is very similar to the professional tool except yours uses wood and can be made inexpensively. I looked at the professional tool but it was hundreds of dollars. If I had to remove a strut bearing with the prop shaft in place I'd make a tool just like the one you posted.

What he really meant.

Actually I think you mean strut bearing, not the strut itself.

Click to expand...

Actually, Neal, I meant the strut. That is what you were worried about cutting. But the real purpose of the post was to allow someone to look good and tell me how to reference a thread or a post.

:thinker: .... http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?t=3768

Obviously, I have now figured how to do it. For the benefit of the other old people out there, right click on the thread or shortcut and click on "properties". Then highlight, copy, and paste the address as desired.

:headb: Maybe one of the young kids out there knows a direct way to do it.

self referencing thread

Tom Metzger said:

Actually, Neal, I meant the strut. That is what you were worried about cutting. But the real purpose of the post was to allow someone to look good and tell me how to reference a thread or a post.
...

Obviously, I have now figured how to do it. For the benefit of the other old people out there, right click on the thread or shortcut and click on "properties". Then highlight, copy, and paste the address as desired.

:headb: Maybe one of the young kids out there knows a direct way to do it.

Click to expand...

Ok Tom, we were really on the same page anyway.

Speaking of pages, I'm getting a recursive reference from your link instead of what I expected to be the tool pix thread. Close but no cigar.

Here's what you do: right click on the thread and select "copy link location". Then paste the address where you want it.

Voila:
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?t=3253

Cut the bearing

Neal, seems like most of the stuff I've read about getting the bearing out (without the shaft) recommends cutting the bearing down to the strut. But, I did discover your posting, Tom, awhile back that showed your home made bearing removal device that looks very cool and simple.

But I plan to remove the rudder, prop and shaft and then add a new bearing, dripless stuffing box and then re-aline the engine. But not until after haul out this November.

Bob
E-32 (1987)
Vesper
Annapolis, MD

Bolo said:

...But, I did discover your posting, Tom, awhile back that showed your home made bearing removal device that looks very cool and simple.

...

Click to expand...

If I had to do it again with more time than I originallt had, I'd build a tool like Tom used and try it with the shaft in, even if I was taking the shaft out anyway. I just think that leaving the shaft in will guide the tool without really adding relevant friction. Then you've got the tool on the shelf to use or lend in the future ! The same tool will install the new bearing too. I've been warned that installing the new bearing can be tricky since they are fairly thin and tend to fold when they're almost installed. Being more precise with the shaft in place, the tool would be less risky.

The heavy duty metal version of the tool Tom borrowed costs something in the hundreds which I don't think is worthwhile considering you could make one for the cost of a case of beer or two. In my case I had researched, found the expensive commercial tool, then decided there wasn't time to screw around building a tool when I knew the hacksaw trick would work too.

Cutless bearing parts/specs source?

Just bought a 1977 E29! Woohoo! I need to replace my cutless bearing, and have a couple of questions, wonder if y'all can help. I've never replaced a cutless bearing or pulled a prop shaft before, but I've read the posts about replacing the cutless bearing and feel up to the job. Tom Metzger's home made tool looks like a good way to go, and I like that it does not require any impact on the strut. Questions:
1) Where do I buy a cutless bearing, where can I find the spec for my 1977 E29. I know it has a 3/4" shaft, but don't have the outer diameter or length for the bearing.
2) Does the 1977 E29 have a set screw or other, and its location?
3) What lubricant should I use when using Tom's tool to press the new one in while under water? (Besides the beer...)
4) My strut has dollar sized zincs on either side, where would I buy zincs?
5) Other thoughts?

Thanks for the help!

Hank