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Heat riser/muffler made from Black Pipe

Mike Thomas

Member II
Has anyone attempted to build a heat riser/muffler completely out of black pipe and fittings?

It should work out to be about $125 as opposed to the 385.00 that PSC wants. I'm not opposed to ordering parts from PSC but that's a little steep for some piping.

If I have this figured out correctly all I should need is a 2.5 to 1.25 reducer, two 2.5 x 2.5 x 1.25 tees, one 1.25 x .75 bushing, one 2.5 cap and some nipples.

Mike T
E-29
 

missalot

Member II
I made one for my E29 completely with black pipe when I converted from the atomic-4 to a diesel. It lasted about 9.5 years. I replaced it with one constructed from stainless pipe.
 

Sean Engle

Your Friendly Administrator
Administrator
Founder
When you do that, are you just working from the existing dimensions - or are you changing them? I would think back pressure differences would be a consideration, no?

//sse
 

missalot

Member II
When I made my riser(s) I used the dimensions of the original copper monstrosity that came with my 1970 E29. I crossed my fingers on the back pressure issues when switching to the diesel. When the black pipe finally failed, I replaced it - same design and dimensions. 11 years and no problems relating to too much back pressure.
 

Chris Miller

Sustaining Member
Just had mine replaced...

Hey Mike,
I just had the one on Sequoia replaced this year... it was a silicone bronze elbow that a company in Annapolis had 10000 of them made since they saw so many failures with them.
They sell for $198 for the one on the Universal 5444... check with Richard in the parts dept at http://www.waterwaypowercenter.com/ and see what they say. For the little bit of extra cash, I'd go with a quality part--- but as always, that's just my $0.02 :)
Chris
 

Emerald

Moderator
Hi Mike,

I may be off base here or misinterperting what is being talked about, but when you say "black pipe" I think of what is used for gas lines (e.g. natural gas), and the research I did indicated that standard galvanized lasted longer. I wouldn't worry about back pressure unless you did something crazy in bends - I assume there is a water lift muffler in your setup somewhere, and that will provide the majority of the back pressure, but we're not talking race engines here, and I don't think you'll know the difference. You can pick up something like a new Vetus water lift muffler for not too much and just use galvanized iron pipe to make a new exhaust system with parts from you hardware store. Here's a couple things that might help. Here's a link to a variety of parts for making your own A4 exhaust from Featherman Enterprises:

http://www.feathermanenterprises.com/html/atomic4exhaust.html

and be sure to scroll down and check out the water injection Y he has that you can easily incorporate into your system, and finally, here's a link to the custom exhaust I did that never gave me any problems, and cost about 60 bucks total:

http://home.comcast.net/~ericson-yachts/A4/exhaust.html


Hope this is of help


-David
Independence 31
Emerald
 
Last edited:

chaco

Member III
Just made my own exhaust riser from galvanized cast iron fittings from HD
and an injection fitting from Universal (1 1/2 NPT engine connection to
1 1/4 NPT reducer for 1 1/2 OD exhaust hose). The CI fittings were $50,
injection fitting $35 and the hose was $100 ! Also incuded a SS flex
connector to take the fitting weight off the engine connection and allow
for vibration/movement($35). Recommended by my Beta Dealer.
The pipe sealant was Permatex NeverSeaze for future replacements.
Yes....you can build it yourself. Just remember the fiberglass tape pipe
wrap on exposed CI for fire safety. Good Luck
 
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