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refit for e-27

wobbegon

New Member
i have just recently bought a 1973 e-27 that has been neglected for quite some time. I am not to sure what to check for on this boat to make sure that it is ready for sailing. I got a good deal on the boat because none of the cleats were backed by anything. Therefore one of these cleats were torn out during alot of wind while docked, and causing significant damage to the starboard deck. Luckily Iam a fiberglass man for a boat yard so that isnt a big deal but just to warn others, make sure everything is backed!!!
Tony Sivesind
Wobbegon e-27
Lake Tahoe
 

Billk

Junior Member
The short answer is everything. Since the boat was neglected you cannot assume anything is in good order or has had proper maintanence. The long answer is inspect the tiller and rudder, all standing rigging, all running rigging, and all the sails. You also want to check the condition of the deck hardware, but it sounds like you are going to do that. You also want to give the engine a good going over to avoid problems with it. The hull, through-hulls, hoses and bilge pumps also need checking. Last but not least are the creature comforts so make sure the stove and the head work.
Best of luck with your new E-27,
Bill Kramer
E-27 Sea Spray
PDX
 

John Chapman

New Member
As you're a glass man, you've got a real leg up on this project.

Check for soft spots, anywhere that there is a bolt hole in the deck. Pay particular attention to the cabin top, where the traveler track attaches. You probably already have the long plywood access covers removed in the cabin. This will allow you to spot any signs of leaks.

One of my summer projects, is to remove all my cleats, stanchons, etc. drill out all the holes. Epoxy them in & redrill everything.

Good Luck, & Good Sailing

John Chapman
E-27 Cold Dog Soup
 

bill nixon

Junior Member
cleats

Thanks for the tip! Will back up my 72 next season, she is now under a tarp. My daughter lives in your area, great location!:cool:
 

Walter Pearson

Member III
For a deck paint a few years ago, I removed every piece of hardware and all trim, so it was a good opportunity to add backing plates ('76 E27). I know not all boats of the same model are identical, but be prepared to make some access holes for some of the hardware since it becomes evident quickly that most of those items were attached to the deck before bonding to the hull during manufacture. As a result, accessibility is sometimes limited and some nuts and washers can be buried in glass where having three arms would be useful.

In addition to the plates, I had to make angled spacers for some of the stanchion base fasteners because the angle of the deck and the underside are not the same, so the original fasteners were forced to bend. The new spacers kept the nut and washer perpendicular to the fastener.

Another problem area was where a couple fasteners lined up with bulkheads and the production solution was to drive in some plastic expansion anchors. I had to do some work get access and then to cosmetically cover a stronger through-bolt system. This was on the stanchion bases where lines are readily attached, so I considered strength to be important there.

I bonded the backing plates to the fiberglass so they became part of the structure and do not become a loose part when removing or mounting the hardware. Not sure whether this is standard procedure, but seems to have worked out OK.
 

Nigel Barron

Notorious Iconoclast
What type of paint did you use for the topsides? Did you sand first, or paint over the old? How did this work re. the textured sections?


Nigel
 

Walter Pearson

Member III
I had a fiberglass guy do the actual painting - it's Awl-Gripped. Pros and cons to everything - it's hard and shiny, but where there were some minor glitches, there's not much chance of repair.

The guy that did the painting did not want to deal with preparing the surfaces in the original waffle pattern non-skid, so he ground it down and then built those areas back up with a smooth surface, then put grit in those places. I used a slightly contrasting color in those areas and it looks nice. Only problem is the density of the grit is somewhat low in spots and forces me to buy good deck shoes for traction. I might not do it that way if I had to do it again.
 

jwolfgra

Member II
I was intrigued by the descreption of the deck work on the E27. Was any consideration given to using one of the Composit/rubber non slips for the molded non slip. This seems like it might be a bit easier and more effective than the Awlgrip with grit approach.
 

Walter Pearson

Member III
I was aware of some of those materials, but a couple of those do-it-yourself jobs in my marina did not turn out real well, so I was receptive to alternatives. I have also read where curling or lifting edges can be a problem after time. Probably that material does have more traction than what I have though. Not having done either method completely on my own, I'm not sure which would be easier.

I'm not sure exactly what the failure mode is for the bonded material at the edges, but maybe ramping up the deck just around the perimeter so the non-skid essentially sits in a 'recess' might help. That's what we do when we design surfaces that will have an adhered bumper button or bonded-on rubber base. Of course, if the problem is shrinkage or degradation of the material or the adhesive, it probably would just delay the problem a bit.
 
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