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Goosenecks--Replacement, Repair, Costs

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
New Cheek Material

Given the salt air environment, would the new pieces be perhaps better if cut from aluminum? Whatever the material I would want to bed the pieces in sealant, like Boatlife LifeSeal (clear). It seems like that would also lower the chance of corrosive alliance with the SS fasteners.
Come to think of it, just use aluminum bolts and nuts for the two rear-most thru bolts -- it's not like one would remove them very often.

Or... ya know... Titanium...
:)
 
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Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Well, I wanted steel. Aluminum would also work.

In fact there is almost no contact between the stainless plates and the cast aluminum.

The plates are held off the casting by the spacers of the reef-line sheaves (just as the original light stainless guide plates were).

I applied Tef-Gel to any contact, as I think we should for any stainless fittings on aluminum.
 

Kenneth K

1985 32-3, Puget Sound
Blogs Author
Nice work! The result, apparently, of bringing in a rocket scientist to tinker in the ancient, slow-moving environment the sailing world operates in.
 

Tempest

Member I
I'm also a CAD designer and I can model parts for free (to help the community out) if you can mail them to me. I might model some stuff for my boat too (E23 mkII) if people would find that useful.

Cheers,
 

egalvan

Member I
Badly Cracked Gooseneck from Ericson 30+

Re-running a reef line, discovered that my gooseneck is pretty well cooked. IMG_1032.jpgIMG_1031.jpgIMG_1035.jpg


Svensen's in Richmond CA now has it and I hope will weld it back together. I reached Rigrite, and they were nice, but they need 2 months to get a replacement. ($429 plus shipping). I'm ordering the replacement anyway, since I'm not sure how long the repair will last on the old one.

**** Upate--Svenson's/Bay Marine welded it back together. Here are the after pictures. IMG_1049.jpg
IMG_1050.jpg
 
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