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Goosenecks--Replacement, Repair, Costs

wurzner

Member III
I broke my gooseneck yesterday as you can see in the attached photos. If they look familiar, they are since I found them from one of Loren's earlier postings. Has anyone replaced this part and if so, what should I expect to pay. I don't like the robustness of this design, there is too little material where it broke so I would likely buy 2 replacement parts and carry one for safety when cruising. The other options are to purchase a used boom or have a local machine shop make one out of billet material opposed to casting. I'm guessing 300~400 should cover the machining costs, or perhaps have a local high school with a metal shop do it.

If anyone has any good sources for any of these options, please let me know. Also, what would one expect to ship a 14 foot boom?

thanks
shaun
 

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wurzner

Member III
Ted,

than is where I got the dimensions from. I can't get through to them, only answering service which isn't ideal to say the least. I faxed in a request and if I hear from them today, I may go down that road. I really think the gooseneck is significantly undersized so I would want to have two, one as a backup. For what I'm guessing the list price will be, the price of two will be more than having one machined.

Thanks and I'll let you know what I find out. I found a lot of cracks in the casting aside from where it broke so I'm not a huge propoent of the design.

regards
shaun
 

wurzner

Member III
Heard Back From Rigrite.com $690

Based on that price, I'm going to pursue additional options with respect to machining a new piece and/or welding the part that I have. Like I mentioned, I would have wanted to keep a spare since it isn't too built up where it broke. I've already lined someone up to do a IGES file for NC milling.

I'll let you know how things progress.

shaun
 

ted_reshetiloff

Contributing Partner
I have a similar gooseneck on my 38 but it is welded into the end of the boom. The parts on the mast end are different but I have that same type of connection point. Is the bolt that runs horizontal connecting the gooseneck to the mast fitting snug? I use a rigging pin here with a delrin bushing on it (had to make). If the bolt is tight the boom will have a hard time moving up and down with vang and topping lift changes. Also the vertical axis should move freely and be lubricated if necessary. I use delrin here as well. If either of these axis' are tight you will load the gooseneck in a bad way. I have no cracks on mine and believe me I have beaten the crap out of this thing. The loads should primarily be compression loads which this set up is plenty strong for. I would look closely at the parts that should move in this assembly. Mine were certainly not optimally set up when I got my boat.
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Gooseneck fell apart this week. I don't think it's a candidate for welding, the cast aluminum is old and looks weak.

I'll call Rigrite tomorrow, they (used to?) have the part.

This old Kenyon design puts a lot of force on cast aluminum ears--up, down and twisting force. A lot of stress over 30 years....

I think Ted R. (preceding post) is right about the importance of attending to the gooseneck fitting. My boat came to me with the gooseneck bolt sprung and the mast fitting loose. I tightened everything up but apparently the damage was already done. A gooseneck is hidden under the sail cover most of the time and not a routine item of inspection. I guess it should be.

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Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Custom replacement

Plan B, perhaps, might be to take the gooseneck off and find someone that does ss welding; a small shop might like the challenge. (my machinist friends all seem to like solving problems.)

Plan B.1 would be to contact Garhauer about replicating it in SS.

Loren
 

Rocinante33

Contributing Partner
I wonder if Ballengers might have something which could be adapted or modified to work. It might be worth while to measure your boom cross section (at least the O.D.) and give them a call, too. They have a reputation of being super helpful. Rig Rite is anything but helpful. In fact, they are often rude.
 

Pat O'Connell

Member III
Notice squeeking as boom moved on the mooring last summer. When we hauled I discovered the gooseneck hole was worn oval and fit sloppy. Took goosenck and pin to local machine shop and shop made a new AL part based on the old one for $70. I may have had some grease as I first went to a friends wire company and they recommended the machinist that makes lots of parts for their busted machines. Could not find the gooseneck part for E28+ at rig rite. Agree with Keiths comment on Rig Rite. We may not be talking about the same gooseneck. Mine does not have the reef hooks as a part of the gooseneck. My gooseneck does look just like Christians but the hooks are a separate part.
Pat O'Connell
1981 E28+ Universal 5411
 
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Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Anybody have experience with making 3D CAD files?

Such a file is needed for copying a gooseneck fitting. But is it practical to have one made?

One company stopped responding when I got around to asking how much it would cost:

miles.jpg

Hi Christian,

Thanks for contacting us! We can create a 3D CAD model of this piece, but we'll need to schedule an appointment for one of our design engineers to take a look. This requires reverse-engineering in SolidWorks, to create a STEP file.



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Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Grant, what does such a project entail?

We'd all like to be able to reproduce hard-to-find fittings, but my sense is that a 3D CAD file from a gooseneck is not a $100 job.

Your perspective appreciated. There's certainly a big market here--but maybe not yet?
 

G Kiba

Sustaining Member
I'm assuming that the entire gooseneck is not the problem. Sorry I glanced through your post and thought your solution was to have the boom end remade. It would be stronger as a single machined part and you could possibly strengthen the original design adding thickness where needed. Many shops now require a step file to manufacture. I'm not sure how complex your boom end is from the pictures, but Cad models are pretty quick to make for an experienced designer. I would be willing to help you with that. I would need detailed measurements. The big cost will be having the part made. Labor is expensive and the part would require two to three "setups" to machine depending on equipment. Does your Areospace friend have any machineshop connections?
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Thanks, Grant. It would be difficult for a layman to measure this fitting, since it is a casting with many complex curves.

Oh well.
 

G Kiba

Sustaining Member
Looking over the photos, it does not look that complex and a machined version would not have to duplicate all the complexity. Best for the person modeling to have the part in hand. I would find a local engineering student. They love doing this kind of work!
 

Vagabond39

Member III
Goosneck casting

Christian:
The casting need not be that narrow at the pivot bolt. A longer bolt, and thicker casting may prevent the boom swinging over 90 degrees on a downwind leg. If the casting around the bolt is increased in height and diameter, that will substantially increase the strength. Both sides equally.
Bob
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
I heard back from the 3D CAD people. Their estimate for making a step file for the gooseneck: $2500.

"Not including fabrication".
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
A Solution to Broken Cast Aluminum Gooseneck

Gooseneck break-001.jpg

I'll get around to adding this to a blog entry on my E38 gooseneck issue, but in the meantime, here's a solution:

Two quarter-inch stainless plates--"Hunziger Plates," named after the, er, designer--Russ Hunziger, a recently retired aerospace engineer and impressed seaman.

Russ noticed that the holes bored in the casting for the reef line sheaves offered a stable attachment area for reinforcing the busted gooseneck eyes--the weak point, where the gooseneck is pinned to the mast fitting.

I created rough mockups out of plywood.

IMG_2232.jpg

A welder made them in quarter-inch stainless bar stock. We put them on today, using slightly longer 3/8th bolts and flat washers as needed.

I left the original cast eyes (weakened by time and a weldment repair) as they were. The strain is now taken by the beefy stainless.

The reef lines and outhaul lead as before, with the original sheaves and spacers.

1-hunziger plate complete.jpg

A replacement gooseneck casting from Rigrite is $700 plus. This cost $80, and appears vastly stronger than the original.

Updated blog entry: http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoex...cson-38-Broken-Boom-Gooseneck-Fitting-(Fixed)
 
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Pat O'Connell

Member III
Gooseneck

Hi Christian
Nice save! I wonder if the rig rite solution at $700 was a platinum/palladium space alloy
:<{))
Best Regards
Pat O'Connell
1981 E28+ Universal 5411
 
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