• Untitled Document

    Join us on March 29rd, 7pm EST

    for the CBEC Virtual Meeting

    All EYO members and followers are welcome to join the fun and get to know the guest speaker!

    See the link below for login credentials and join us!

    March Meeting Info

    (dismiss this notice by hitting 'X', upper right)

I started replacing 1983 E28+ cabin sole

I would not have attempted this if not for the wealth of info on this site. Many thanks to all who have contributed. As can be seen in the attached photo's, my sole is in pretty bad shape. It has been covered by a rug for many years, but it really needs to go. I recruted my wifes cousin, master builder, and all around great guy, Bob, to handle the job ( a man's gotta know his limitations ) and last Saturday we removed the sole.

First we removed the molding, which is in pretty good shape, and then started removing each half of the main sole. It came up pretty easily and intact, with just the last layer of ply still glued to the floor. They will be used as templates for the new sole. It was 1/4" ply with 1/2" Mahonogy sections to fill in the grid. The bow section came up as splinters, but we had made a template from builders paper.

The plan is:

1: Remake the sole in 3 sections from 1/4" BS1088 Teak and Holly ply. Two 4X8 sheets will be here by Friday. The Mahogony sections will also remade with 1/2" marine ply.

2: Throughly clean all adhesive from the floor and clean the bilge. Grind down the screws that did not come out.

3: Fit the sole pieces and then epoxy both sides with a thin penetrating epoxy. Epoxy the replacement 1/2" grid sections and screw in with SS screws.

4: Screw in the sole with bronze square drive counter sunk hardware. Finish the sole with 4 coats of spar varnish. We are not planning to glue it back down.

5: Remake the bilge hatches from 1/2" ply and 1/4" teak and holly ply.

I will post comments and pictures as we progress. Any comments out there?? Anyone know where to get new hardware for the bilge hatches?

Mark Tuccillo
1983 E28+ # 553 "wing It"
 

Attachments

  • DSC_1480.jpg
    DSC_1480.jpg
    159.4 KB · Views: 322
  • DSC_1482.jpg
    DSC_1482.jpg
    236.1 KB · Views: 281
  • DSC_1483.jpg
    DSC_1483.jpg
    253.1 KB · Views: 637
  • DSC_1484.jpg
    DSC_1484.jpg
    235.5 KB · Views: 263
  • DSC_1489.jpg
    DSC_1489.jpg
    247.2 KB · Views: 272

NateHanson

Sustaining Member
I can certainly understand not wanting to reglue the floor, but I think it might be a little noisy underfoot without the glue. You might be able to minimize that noise by first laying a 2mm foam underlayment (used under wood-laminate floors like pergo). It eliminates the "clap" noise that accompanies every footfall on a thin wood floor like that.

Probably depends on how closely you'll space your screws. I'd guess it's no an issue if your screws are spaced every foot, but beyond that I'd estimate you might get some high spots.
 

Geoff Johnson

Fellow Ericson Owner
A couple of comments since I have been down this path (I assume you have seen the extensive thread for my sole).

http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?t=1526&highlight=cabin+sole

First, I think you should apply a coat of the penetrating epoxy to both sides before cutting. It will prevent splitting when you cut. Second, I don't know how you got your sole up in one piece, but if you have an accurate template and are using 1/4" ply, try the router method I describe; it's much more precise than a saw. Third, my sole is screwed only with 1/2" and 3/4" bronze square drive screws from McFeely's. The floor is quite solid and the bronze darkens so that the screws are really not noticable. Good luck!

PS I got my bilge hatch pulls from West Marine. I switched to the round model because I wanted to use the router/trimmer to make the holes. You can see the photos on the thread I mentioned.
 
Last edited:

wheelerwbrian

Member III
Geoff, a quick question. I noticed in your earlier thread that you had experience some blackening of the sole from a bilge cleaner leak. How did you get rid of it?

I have some similar damage from water leaking through a hatch. I was thinking of lightly sanding to remove the finish (whatever it is...), then trying bleach to see what happened. If that failed I was going to try teak cleaner. Its mostly on the small section aft of the mast, so if I destroy it, it can be replaced without too much pain and suffering.

My sole is not ready to be replaced -- I just want it cleaned up.
 

Geoff Johnson

Fellow Ericson Owner
Frankly, it was that leak (and annoyance at having to live in fear of getting water inside of a sailboat) that caused me to replace the whole sole. However, on earlier repair efforts I used a water-based varnish remover and then scrubbed the bare wood gently. Sanding is dangerous since the teak veneer is only about 1 mm thick.
 

P Abele

Member II
I am hopefully nearing the end of this project on our boat and wanted to offer a word of warning on finishing the wood. I used west 205 epoxy to coat both sides of the sole to make them waterproof underneath and hard on top. My plan is now to apply Epifanes spar varnish to the top for a nicer finish, but I applied this early last week roughly 6 days after putting down the epoxy and the next day to my terror, the varnish wouldn't cure! I tried heat, time and everything else I could think of but nothing woudl allow the varnish to set up. I spoke with a rep at Epifanes and he told me I needed to wait longer (1-2 weeks minimum) before putting down the varnish as it continued to outgass chemicals which impact the varnish. I have since cleaned up the wood, (which was surprisingly easy) and hope to be ready to apply more varnish to a small section in the next couple of days and will report back if the problems persist.
 

Geoff Johnson

Fellow Ericson Owner
For that application I think you are better off using something like Smith's Clear Penetrating Epoxy, which has the viscosity of alcohol. I find that on T&H plywood, it takes three coats before it begins to build up on the surface so you know that it is getting soaked into the wood. It comes in warm and cold weather formulae and can be varnished within days of being applied.
 
Top