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Thread: Sound-Down Insulation

  1. #1
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    Sound-Down Insulation

    I am in the process of replacing the engine compartment insulation and got going on it yesterday. It is a REAL PITA with the engine in place, but I got all the pieces cut and installed. Still need to go back and add a few more fasteners but I need a right angle drill to do that. I used 1 1/2" Sound Down foam. Stuff is brutal to work with. It has a 1/4" thick ruberized lead portion with foam on either side. The stuff was a real chore to cut. I really needed some humongo shears but had to get by with some HD scissors and a razor knife. I will take some photos next time I'm down. If I could make one recommendation to those considering the project I would strongly advise removing your engine to do it. The hardest part is the fasteners. The ones recommended are these pins you mount then push the foam over it followed by a washer type piece. Problem is there is not enough room to get the fasteners installed then manouver the foam piece into place. I used a combination of these hangers and some long screws with fender washers but that was a pain too. Anyway its pretty much done, still need to tape the seams and a few more fasteners. I just felt I had to share my pain, I'm still sore...

  2. #2
    Inactive Member Chris Miller's Avatar
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    you'll notice the difference...

    Hi Ted,
    I did the motor cover with sound-down last year, the difference in sound is pretty amazing. How did you remove all the adhesive from the bulkheads when you took the old stuff off? or did you not bother?
    This is on my project list right after I get the stuff built do make the companionway more dog friendly.
    Chris
    Chris Miller :cartmann:
    S/V [I]Sequoia[/I]
    1988 38-200 Hull #262
    [URL="http://svsequoia.blogspot.com/"]http://svsequoia.blogspot.com/[/URL]

  3. #3
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    Removing the old crap was a drag. It was all crumbly and creating a mess. I used a putty knife and scraped off as much of the old glue as I could. If I had removed the motor I probably would have been more agressive about removing it. My guess is 3m Adhesive remover and a lot of rags. That being said I did not use any apray adhesive in putting the new stuff in. Its pretty heavy stuff and with some fasteners holding it down itdoes not appea to need any. My engine cover has 1" sound down on it already but I used 1.5" on the rest. Does not look like 1.5" would clear the waterpump pully.

  4. #4
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    Can't Wait! At least my engine is removed before I start. I am installing the
    1" on my engine compartment walls and cover. It looks like the SS fender
    washer/wood screw fastener is the best option for my installation.
    Thank you for sharing !
    Dan Simpson
    s/v Merlin
    74' E35-II #382
    Oceanside Harbor, CA

  5. #5
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    If your engine is out I would use the recommended hangers. The only reason I did not was due to access problems. The screw and fender washer version is actually harder to install bc it twists up the foam if you are not careful.

  6. #6
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    I had the same problem with the screws. Put a little grease, super lube, vaseline on the screwthreads before you run it through and it wont grab the foam.
    Ben Warner
    Pau Hana
    E38 #61
    San Diego, CA

  7. #7
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    Thanks Ben, thats a great idea. Been meaning to ask you more about your headsails on the 38 and if you are using a furler or not? Also what do you use for kites?

  8. #8
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    Ted, i have a Harken 1.5 furler. Its the guts of a 2 with the smaller drum of the 1.
    The 100 and 135 dont have foam luffs so they look like crap when when reefed in more than a few of turns.

    I have a Doyle APC assym spinn that I picked up at Bacons when I was in annapolis last. Its a couple of feet short on the luff measure (from max) but I like it flying a little higher for visibility, and it was brand new with an ATN sock included for a smokin deal.
    Ben Warner
    Pau Hana
    E38 #61
    San Diego, CA

  9. #9
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    Ok, I need to throw in my 2 cents worth. In regards to removeing the old sound deadener material. I did this wonderful little project on the top and front of the engine cover. After many hours of useing the strongest adhesive remover and the putty knife thing on the top cover (on the dock). I finally figured out that a good old fashioned paint scraper with no glue remover, just worked swell. The scaper needs to be nice and sharp. Messy yes with all the crumbles but, no fumes from the glue remover.
    Kim
    Windfall
    1984 35-3

  10. #10
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    Yah........mine was pretty messy too! Sime kind of ancient "high heat"
    paint peeling off of flaking particle board. My poor little engine breathing
    paint chips and sawdust! The particle board was fastened to the engine
    cover with wood screws and adhesive. Had to back out the screws and
    break the particle board off in pieces with a big screwdriver and scrape
    off the adhesive with a putty knife. Glad to have it GONE !
    Dan Simpson
    s/v Merlin
    74' E35-II #382
    Oceanside Harbor, CA

  11. #11
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    Guess I was a slacker. I left the old glue residue there and just hung the new insulation over top. Looks fine to me. The new stuff attached fine with a combination of the hangers they sell and screws with fender washers. Needed a right angle drill but got it done. PITA, never doing that one again without moving the engine...

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