• Untitled Document

    Join us on March 29rd, 7pm EST

    for the CBEC Virtual Meeting

    All EYO members and followers are welcome to join the fun and get to know the guest speaker!

    See the link below for login credentials and join us!

    March Meeting Info

    (dismiss this notice by hitting 'X', upper right)

Trouble removing fuel tank

bwindrope

Member I
Help!
I've started removing the original fuel tank from my 84 28+, and have run into the problem of the glassed in aluminum tabs not allowing me to remove the tank. I've cut away the plywood from the back, starboard, side of the tank, and can rock the tank up a few degrees, but it won't go any further.

When lifted a bit it hits the bulkhead between the fuel tank and engine room and I sure don't want to cut that to remove the tank. It has 3 tabs that are glassed in, and that is the only thing holding it in, but I don't know how to approach dealing with cutting that away without damaging the hull!

Any advice on how to cut away the fiberglass covering the alumnimun tank tabs would be ever so greatly appreciated.

Two hours of banging and rocking it back and forth only resulted in me getting hot and banged up myself. :esad:
 

NateHanson

Sustaining Member
I'd just grind away the glass that's on top of the aluminum tabs. That glass isn't contributing to hull integrity, so as long as you're only removing the extra tabbing, there's nothing to worry about.
 

bwindrope

Member I
Thanks, but easy for you to say! I've never ground away fiberglass. It's a tight space. Do I just try to get down there with a power sander with 60 grit paper? I would drill it away except that would be stupid and I try not to be. It is very tough stuff. I tried to chisel it away from the tank with my screwdriver and it laughed at me. It is good that the stuff is solid, but I don't how to grind it away. Could someone give me a little more detail? Many thanks.
 

rgoff

Member III
You might want to try an motorized Dremel tool with a small cutting wheel. Just make sure you don't try cutting into the hull. :)

I went through the tank replacement on my E27 last summer. It came out easier than I thought it would.

Good luck!
 

rssailor

Moderator
attack of the killer dremel

Pick up a dremel and the cutting wheel thing that costs like twenty nine bucks or something that is a diamond cutting wheel and attack the tabs carefully with that and you will soon have the tank out. Good luck and let us know how it goes. Ryan
 

bwindrope

Member I
Thanks for the dremel solution

It sounds like the current consensus is to cut it out with a dremel, which I don't own, but can get pretty cheap it sounds like. I suppose when I put the new tank in I'll have to learn how to glass it's tabs into place too, and while at it could reinforce any places I thought I had dinged up. I like the thought of cutting it instead of sanding it, for the sake of avoiding the nightmare of dust.

Thanks for the quick emergency help, I'll sleep better tonight having a solution in mind.
 

Dan Hayes

Member III
Hey Brian -
Lots of people have Dremels, so consider borrowing one... also, they had a nice Dremel knockoff at Costco with a ton of attachements for less than 30. Good luck, and let us know how it's going.

-dh
 

Glyn Judson

Moderator
Moderator
Buying a Dremel tool

Brian, Might I suggest that when choosing a Dremel tool, you consider getting the 110 volt style as opposed to the rechargable one? There's far more torque in the 110 volt model and with any kind of tough job, I suspect that the rechargable one would simply die several times during the whole job. Good luck, Glyn
 

bwindrope

Member I
Not surprised to hear the 110 volt has more torque, thanks for the heads up. I'll go to buy one this week, and then start cutting away and let you folks know how it went. Maybe I'll think ahead and bring my camera for some pictures. Now I'm having an impossible time shopping for an impeller for my Jabsco water pump. There are millions of them, and no way to reference the model number on my pump. You'd think someone would have thought this through.

I changed the egine oil and transmission oil today too. I bought and used the metal tanked suction system and it worked great. Oh, the tune up and making seaworthier goes on and on...
 

chaco

Member III
Mini-Grinder

I use a Dewalt 4.5" Mini Grinder for fiberglass removal. Cuts are made with
a flexible 1/8" disc and grinding done with a 1/4" wheel.
As you get closer to the hull use the grinding wheel so you can't
make a mistake and cut through :eek: Keep a shop-vac close for dust removal. Haven't run in to a spot where the grinder can't do the job.
It is small enough to use with one hand in tight spots.
Also has an attachment for sanding discs to finish off for fiberglass rework.
Take your impellar to a real marine parts supplier (not WM) and they will
match it up for you. Make sure to get a nitrile impellar. Neoprene will
absorb ANY petroleum products, expand and JAM in your pump :boohoo:

Good Luck on your Tank ! :egrin: /) /)
 

bwindrope

Member I
It makes sense to use a grinding attachment like you mention, Chaco. Thanks. I'm glad to report that I found a local marine engine shop that had no trouble referencing the Jabsco impeller I needed. Turns out it is a UK model and so the part had to come from the old world side of the rockies. I've ordered it, and the full service kit as backup.

Although I had really preferred to place a Tempo plastic tank into my boat, I now see that the original aluminum tank was so oddly shaped to maximize the cramped starboard stern compartment behind the engine that there is no way to put in a plastic tank and retain the 20.5 gallon capacity. I've heard you can get custom plastic tanks, but I'm sure they'd be more expensive.

I'm still anxious to get this darn tank out and find out the exact source of the leak. It would be fine with me if I get it out and check it only to find no problem and the PO and company misdiagnosed a line/valve leak for a tank leak. I'd still rather have pulled it and been sure than wonder every time I was banging close hauled.
 

chaco

Member III
Alluminum Tank....so young !

An alluminum tank with 20 years on it should not leak.
Are you gas or diesel ? Sounds like fittings / piping will be the problem.
Look for chaffing on the hull. My 30 year old steel tank rusted out on the
corners where it touched the hull and completely rusted out internally
on diesel. I replaced it with welded alluminum before she started leaking
and WORSE ....putting a bunch of CRUD in the engine :p
I put 1/4"x4"x4" pvc/fabric guards on the corners to prevent chaffing and
strapped the tank down with 1" wide SS straps.
Run your NEW fuel lines in vinyl tubing conduit to prevent hose chaffing
through the bilge.

Happy Tanking :egrin: /) /)
 

hodo

Member III
Dan, did you isolate the straps from the tank? I have seen several tanks severly corroded under the stainless straps. Aluminum and stainless do not like each other,that is why it can be difficult to take stainless fasteners out of things like masts and spinnaker poles.I have used heat shrink and hose on straps and that seems to work well. Also the rubber dip stuff does pretty well.Now, if I could figure out a way to drink stout beer at work, and not get fired, I'd feel really smart. Cheers, Harold
 

chaco

Member III
Good call Hodo !
Will loosen the straps and incase them in a vinyl hose conduit to seperate
the SS from the Al ! Vinyl hose is kind of like PlasTeak. It has the unique
abilty to solve all the worlds problems.
 

bwindrope

Member I
I've been taking the word of the PO and her mechanic helper that the tank leaked, but have no independent verification. I'd sure hate to fill the tank with fuel and have 10 gallons of diesel fill my bilge. I'm going to remove the tank, especially since I have already cut the plywood in places and battered my hands to do so, and test the damn thing for 100% sure. It would give me an excuse to learn how to fiberglass it back in too.

I wouldn't, however, be the least bit surprised if the problem is, or also is, the lines, as I've discovered the boat had nothing done to it until it catastrophically failed. Hard to believe, because I'm the type of guy who replaces everything on the chance it may not be 100%. I don't mind suffering or dying, but doing either because I failed to replace a 20 year old hose would place me in the eternal hell of my own judgment.
 

Annapolis E-27

Member III
E-27 Aluminum Tank gave way last year

The old aluminium can develop pin hole leaks that REALLY leak. My E-27 developed a small, but un-reachable and therefore un-repairable leak, under the forward, starboard corner. It did fill my bilge in the off season last year with diesel. What a mess. :eek: Now it is drained and I have plumbed a temporary fix with a 3 gallon plastic tank I have set in the lazerette. The plan is to not remove the old tank but to cut the top off, file it smooth and use that as the bed for a new Tempo type plastic tank. This repair is on my spring list. Good luck with yours.
 

bwindrope

Member I
Yeah, I have heard about leaving the old tank and putting the new one into it, but I have not been able to find a plastic tank that even remotely conforms to the shape of the aluminum. I do not want to seriously reduce the fuel capacity because I or the next owner may want to take the boat long distances.

No, I'm decided to yank the thing out, test it, confirm it, and order a new aluminum tank. Seems I will have to pay something on the order of $300 for the new tank.

I really appreciate the stories and experience everyone has shared. :D
 

bwindrope

Member I
Tank Removed!!! Repair or Replace?

Success!! I bought the Dremel tool recommended and cut the tank out this afternoon. I can't tell you how happy I am to be done with that step. Thanks for the advice on how to do so.

Now that I have it out I can see the source of the leak. It appears that in the lowest corner, it was in contact with a metal screw, and there is a hole in the tank the shape of a standard screwdriver tip and about that size. I think it must have been corrosion from this screw head.

Now that I have it out, it looks in great shape otherwise. I am wondering about the possibility of having it patched in that place and saving the tank. If it was pressure checked and looked at for corrosion, would this be alright?
 

Guy Stevens

Moderator
Moderator
Yes...

First I would cut an access hole in the top, and prep for a plate to cover the access hole, so that you can verify that there are no other issues in the tank, such as corrosion from the inside out.

Then Just have a good welder weld the hole closed.... Pressure test the tank to 3 or 4 psi, and call it good.

The access plate can be fabricated from aluminum, and gasketed like anything. A good idea here is to use aluminum screws for it too. A reinforcement ring on the interior of the tank which is threaded to accept the fasteners from the plate is the best way, so that in effect the tank is top is sandwiched between the inspection plate, and the reinforcement ring with a gasket on the top.

Make the inspection hole a square and the ring will fit in diagonally and be easy to drill.

Guy
:)
 
Last edited:
Top