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Starting Atomic 4

chaco

Member III
Batteries in Parallel

Do you have a Shore Power connection automaticaly charging your batteries?
1. Do not mix types or amphour of batteries run in parellel
2. You need a two circuit charger to get full charge on each battery
3. A single circuit charger will shut off when (1) battery has charged
4. (2) deep cycle batteries run in parallel and switched to "both"
during starting is a working system for the 20-40hp range engines.
5. Under charge you can check the Specific Gravity of all cells and
determine if your batteries are good. Cells that don't reach the
SAME good charge level as the rest of the cells, indicates that
your batteries need to be replaced.
6. Replace batteries in PAIRS ! They wear out at the same rate.
7. Check the voltage drop across your starter. As it is above the rated
amp draw it is SHORTING OUT in the starting motor and will draw down
your battery in a matter of seconds to DEAD.
8. During engine running verify that the alternator/charging system is
working correctly. A running gas engine will run batteries to DEAD
without the charging system working.

Good Luck :egrin: /) /)
 

Jarod

Member III
Hey guys,

It turned to be the battery..i put a new Nautilus deep cycle in there and it fired right up...it sucked water out of the bucket and the water came out the exhaust although it looked a bit rusty in color...is this normal if it has sat for a bit??? I will definately but in the y valve for the bucket hook up so i can flush with fresh after a wkd out...i assume the second battery is probably finished as well so i will likely have to replace it also..
 

NateHanson

Sustaining Member
Rust isn't great, but not entirely uncommon. Hopefully the engine was laid up with some sort of antifreeze. That's less corrosive than water. But even so the injection elbow will always be rusting somewhat.
 

jkenan

Member III
If you end up having any overheating issues, it could be due to rust (or scaling) clogging a passageway, since you did mention you have rust. A couple of places to check for scale clogs if you do overheat (prioritized based on ease of access):
1) Thermostat Housing
2) Exhaust Manifold Exit Port (where hose is connected). I have found lots of scale blocking water in the manifold just under the street el fitting the hose is attached to in one frustrating overheating episode - remove the fitting and look into the manifold itself.
3) Diverter cap behind water jacket side plate - This is a bit more involved since you have to remove the plate, and only a likely place for rust to collect if you have a recently installed a fresh water cooling system.

For future reference, in case you need it (hope you don't!)
 

Paul C

New Member
While you are all on the subject. My Atomic 4 starts right up and works great. The only thing that bothers me is the throtle is backwords to my way of thinking. I push to slow and pull to speed up. Counter intuitive to me. Can this be changed?
 

jkm

Member III
To this day I sometime forget to push the starter button. Most the early 1970 models have a starter button. All I can say is that if you get juice to it, it'll turn over. With full choke it will fire if it's going to. Don't crank it for more than three seconds.
Don't forget that the engine is like an old TR4A, it's got points. Once you get it going upgrade to pointless ignition and you'll love the engine.
 
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