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High Speed Polisher

Guy Stevens

Moderator
Moderator
Not high speed

You want to keep the speed for polishing and cutting somewhere in the 1750-1800 area, anything faster than that and you will have a tendancy to burn rather than cut or polish.

Milwakee makes a unit that is variable speed which functions in this area which is a good unit.

I have also used the slower line of Mikitas with good results.

3m Finesse it II works best for polishing I have found.

Guy
:)
 

Emerald

Moderator
Hi,


just to add to what Guy already mentioned. Get a good machine (like Milwaukee, Makita, Bosh). Yes, this is going to be "expensive" like $125-$200. You say "too much". Well, having used the piece of junk $50 dollar buffers like you find advertised for waxing your car, and owning a professional buffer, there is no comparison. The job will be done faster/ better. You will have the tool last as long as your alive (you'll never buy another one), and depending on what flavor of tool you buy, you can also use it with abrasive discs (great if you get into fiberglass repair etc.)


If you are at a loss for buying such tools, here's a place to start, A & I Supply:

http://www.ai-supply.com/


and as always, just a customer, nothing to gain :D


-David
Independence 31
Emerald
 

jgarmin098

Member II
Thanks gents. One question though: How do you determine the RPM that a variable speed polisher is running at? Is there a little tachometer gauge on the handle...?

I see that the Mikita's top speed can be preset. How does that work?
 

Emerald

Moderator
Hi,


The machines I've used have actually had a thumb wheel with RPM printed on it. Just turn the wheel to the speed you want.


Of note, I often find that I don't really look at the actual RPM, but make a judgement on speed based on the work. I know that's a wet fish answer you can't put your hands around, but you'll very quickly get a seat of the pants feel for it. As already mentioned, slow, not fast. Keep it moving, work up to higher speed, not the other way around. You can burn the finish in a second if you use too much speed/pressure/don't keep it moving - never let the bufffing wheel hit the surface at a severe angle or the edge will put a burn in lickity split. Now, don't be scared of the machine either. Any chance you have a hard dinghy or an old beater car you can practice technique on? If not, start someplace like the overhang in the rear quarter near centerline where you can reach it and if you have an "oops" it will be near impossible to see without swimming....


-David
Independence 31
Emerald
 

rwthomas1

Sustaining Partner
I prefer a dedicated polishing tool. They are designed for constant use ergonomically and generally are lighter/easier to use. If you need a grinder, buy one but leave the polishing to a tool designed specifically for that. Spend the money for a good quality piece and you won't be sorry. I find I am much less likely to burn the surface with the correct tool. RT
 

Emerald

Moderator
Hi again,


You got me thinking about stuff so I went looking for my unit online to see what the current state is. From what I can tell, the name has been changed, but the machine is the same. I have an old Black & Decker Buffmaster, which was from their professional line of tools years back. It looks like this has now become labled as Dewalt (no surprise since B&D bought them). So, just for grins, this is the critter I was talking about with the thumb wheel for RPM, and the sucker is even governed to keep RPM constant as load varies. While the top RPM on this unit is "only" 3000 RRM, I have had good luck using it for grinding, and can assure you the motor is strong enough to rip your arm off if you are not careful while using it as a grinder. Here's the link, and again, I am posting this as reference for the type of machine I am talking about, not saying there aren't other options out there that will work for you:


http://www.ai-supply.com/search/ShowItem.asp?ItemCode=DWL+DW849


-David
Independence 31
Emerald
 

jgarmin098

Member II
Follow up:

I purchsed the Mikita from Coastal Tool online for $170 with two free pads and a cool carry case. I got out there with just Finesse-It II and went to town. The result is extremely gratifying. A truely wet look and the neat thing is, when I apply the Colonite Fleetwax, it is hard to determine what has been waxed and what has not. The compounded areas are that glossy.

And the best part: When my boatyard neighbors stop by to have a look they just lean back on the heels, stare at their reflection and say, "Damn, what product are you using?" My reply, "Finesse-It II, and there is no wax on that yet..." Their response, a dropped jaw...
 
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