• Untitled Document

    Join us on April 26th, 7pm EST

    for the CBEC Virtual Meeting

    All EYO members and followers are welcome to join the fun and get to know the guest speaker!

    See the link below for login credentials and join us!

    April Meeting Info

    (dismiss this notice by hitting 'X', upper right)

Hull flex caused porthole "glass" crack

Sven

Seglare
I thought our "wind event" over thankgiving and the subsequent return home had only resulted in some lost sleep and one lost handrail cover. Today I found out that it had also resulted in a cracked porthole pane :-(

It is the porthole right next to the chainplate and in retrospect I'm not surprised that the hull flexing could have caused it. We fell off some pretty steep head-on seas at we made 4 kts or less at full power for the last two hours returning back to MDR.

I know I've seen lots of porthole rapair threads here in the past and will start doing searches for them. In the meantime, it looks as if the inside of the porthole frame is attached with screws to it should not be that big a deal to remove the old one and get a new piece cut to fit ?

What material is the "glass itself actually made out of ?

Thanks,



-Sven
 

Mark F

Contributing Partner
Blogs Author
Hi Sven,

My E23-1 had laminated glass. One was port broken so I had a piece of tempered glass made to fit. When I was tightening the inner mounting frame I cracked the new piece of glass, I guess I didn’t tighten the screws slowly/evenly enough. I then had new Lexan pieces made up for all 4 ports and have not had any trouble since. I replaced the glass to frame gasket with new that I found at a local glass shop (had to go to a few shops before I found the right size). My frames were pitted inside the groove that accepts the gasket and they leaked at first. I took them apart and added some silicone in the groove and they have not leaked since. Also I used glazing tape for the seal between the frame and the hull, it seals well and is easy to clean up.
 

Kevlarpirate

Member II
Lexan Ports

always use Lexan or any other polycarbonate. Other names are "Tuffak" Make sure it is UV protected "MR10" if Lexan. Superior plastics has scraps for cheap 310 515 5111. I have lots of 1/4 inch it is not MR-10 but you can put a layer of Mylar window tint over the outside and it will be scratch resistant too! and the best new.. It's free! bring your port and we will cut out 2 on the bandsaw and trim on the belt sander.
 

NateHanson

Sustaining Member
If you have a router, plastics are very easily machined with a flush-trim router bit. Quicker and cleaner than a belt sander. Just use double-stick carpet tape to secure the old piece to the new piece, saw to within 1/8" of the finished size, then router.

As for this Gasket material that you got at a glass shop Mark, is that the skinny rubber wedge that goes between the polycarbonate and the aluminum frame? I need to replace that, but was worried I wouldn't be able to find it.
 

Sven

Seglare
Hi Mark,

Mark F said:
Hi Sven,

My E23-1 had laminated glass.

I ran my fingernail over the crack this weekend and you're absolutely right, it is laminated. The outside layer is cracked but the inside layer is not.

Interesting design.



-Sven
 
Top