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Adding Coolant to Avoid Air Pockets

Sean Engle

Your Friendly Administrator
Administrator
Founder
Ok - this will sound stupid - but I need to know anyhow:

I've just installed a new water heater - so all the coolant is out of the system. What is the best way to put in the new coolant to avoid any potential problems with air pockets getting caught in the system, thus overheating the engine, etc?

Thanks,
//sse
 

Tom Plummer

Member III
What I did was to create a loop in the heater hose to the hot water tank heat exchanger. The loop was positioned so that it was the high point in the system. At the apex of the loop I put in one of those radiator flushing fittings which are avilable at any auto parts store. I then filled the system thru the flushing fitting.
 

Geoff Johnson

Fellow Ericson Owner
What I have done in the past on my M25 engine, after replacing the antifreeze, is to run the engine and note the temp gauge. If the gauge climbs above normal (about 130 for me), I know there is an air pocket in the system. I then shut down the engine and - carefully - open the discharge cock on the side of the engine and let the air/antifreeze mixture blow into a plastic milk jug. You might have to do this a few times to get all the air pockets out. I am sure I didn't invent this procedure, so it must be mentioned in one of the Universal manuals.
 

Sean Engle

Your Friendly Administrator
Administrator
Founder
130??

130? Really? My M25 runs at 140-160 - which I thought was normal. Now you've got me going back to the book....

//sse
 

Sean Engle

Your Friendly Administrator
Administrator
Founder
Universal M25 Oper. Temp.

Geoff -

The manual says "...165 to 190..." for the M25 - how on earth are you getting 130? I know the water is cold over there, but Puget Sound is about 50 degrees all the time - so I cannot imagine getting much lower than 165 or 175.....

//sse
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
My M25XP runs at 160, just about like the thermostat is rated for. After I re-hosed the engine and installed the new water heater and cabin heater, I added the 50-50 coolant mixture thru the cap on top of the manifold until full to that point. Then I ran the engine while adding more coolant thru the overflow tank, to the normal level line. Then I shut down and vented air out of the petcock on the thermostat housing until coolant appeared. I ran the engine until warmed up and repeated the process several times, until no more air came out of the petcock. (This was over a year ago, so my recollection may be faulty...) I believe that this was the whole procedure.
BTW, the installation of the Heatercraft brand cabin heater, using waste engine heat, really makes those cold spring/fall days under power bearable!
Loren
Olson 34 #8, Portland, OR
 

Geoff Johnson

Fellow Ericson Owner
Yeah, I know the temp seems a little low, but then if it ain't broke why fix it? And it's better than when I had steam coming out of the exhaust (due to a bad riser). But now that you mention it, I will run the issue by my yard's trusty diesel mechanic when I get the boat hauled.
 

Tom Plummer

Member III
All of this running then bleading, running then bleading, and running then bleading seams like a lot of extra effort. When I made the fill tube at the high point in the system I only had to burp the system once.
 

MarioBie

Junior Member
I have M12 on my E26 and this one runs 160 or so. To me even 160 is a bit low as I hear 180 is the norm.
Anyway. Funny you've mentioned changing antifreeze. Just last weekend I tried to drain the whole system; engine block, manifold, and heat exchanger. Imagine my surprise when there was not even a drop of antifreeze coming out the the engine block drain. ( of course I had the filler cap open). I drained manifold and exchanger, but again. Nothing from engine block!
I did filled the system with 50/50 solution and run the engine while motoring for 1 hour or so. I've also bleed the system using the bleeder valve. The temp didn't go much above 160.
Upon return I was so courious about this engine block that I tried to see if there is anything in it. Well.. I've opened the drain again.. and NOTHING CAME OUT.
Any ideas?
Thanks
 

Sean Engle

Your Friendly Administrator
Administrator
Founder
Blockage?

Perhaps there's something blocking your drain (like rust or something)? I woulc think if there was actually nothing in the block you would have already known by now (and not be very happy about it). Tell me - what happens if I have too much antifreeze in my solution (as far as cooling)? Maybe that's why mine is so warm (about 175 or so).

//sse
 

MarioBie

Junior Member
Hi Sean

I don't think that percentage of the solution is affecting operating temperature at all. After all... its the fluid. In a pinch you may as well use Coke, or Pepsi if the area where you live doesn't freeze
during winter.

However, 50/50 solution ( water & antifreeze) acts as rust protective agent and this solution is recommended by my engine manual.

One thing you may check though. Take a look at your water pump.
If this is a "cap" type, which requires lubrication, you have to turn it 1/4 of a circle every 30 hours of engine operation.
If you haven't done so this maybe a reason for water pump not working properly.

Regardless... if you operate in 170 range you are in good shape anyway. I wouldn't worry too much. But I know what you mean.
If something is less than perfect on my boat.. I am misarable
and try to fix it immediately.

Now.... if I had a blockage in my engine block, and the fresh water system wouldn't circulate the way it supposed to would I be able to operate between 160 -170?
This is something which bothers me.
What's the best way to check the blockage short of taking the whole engine apart?

Mario
 

Sean Engle

Your Friendly Administrator
Administrator
Founder
Blockage

I'm not sure - what I would do in that situation is contact Torrenson Marine in Michigan. They've got a huge Universal/Atomic website:

http://www.marinedieseldirect.com/

Give them a shout - and see what they say about...

Good Luck!

//sse
 

sailingdeacon

Member III
Variation.. no overheating but no hot water

I replaced the antifreeze in my Universal 4 cyl. Filled back up with antifreeze mixture and ran the engine. It ran up to normal temp. But there is no hot water from the hot water tank (it is filled). There are two hoses going to the water tank from the engine which is the highest point I think. There is a vent screw installed on one of the hoses at the highest point. Any ideas as to what is going on and what to do next?
 

ted_reshetiloff

Contributing Partner
Open the vent and bleed the system? I have an overflow tank located up near my hot water heater as well as bleeder valves on the hoses going to it from the engine. Theres also a bleeder on the thermostat. Make sure you have all of the air out but running the engine and bleeding all of these valves. Start at the lowest and work your way up.
 
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