Autopilot for E32-200

I'm looking to add an autopilot to my E32-200 and was wondering what others are using. The models I am looking at are the B&G h1000 system, and the Wil Hamm P-3C system (www.whautopilots.com), both of which use a hydraulic linear drive to turn the rudder, and both of which are integrated below decks (no rigging or moving parts in the cockpit). This type seems much more robust to me than electric wheel or tiller drives. I read in many places about people replacing Autohelm motors frequently, sometimes after just one passage, they wear out so easily. I'm looking for the Energizer Bunny of autopilots, since I anticipate a lot of short-handed passages when I embark on my cruising adventures.

The B&G model integrates the electric hydraulic pump and ram into one unit, so it takes up less space than the WH Autopilot, which has a separate hydraulic pump. But of course a separate pump and hydraulic ram are easier to service and the WH model is designed to use easily obtained replacement parts. The B&G model appropriate for my boat is about 2/3 the cost of the WH P-3C system, but the WH autopilot is a more powerful autopilot and Wil Hamm tells me it uses less electricity than the B&G unit.

It's always a trade-off, isn't it? Are there some other ideas or autopilot models I should consider?

Mechanical Crew....

For general reliablility I also have heard that the below-decks AP models are better. Having a nine year old 4000S wheel-mounted unit, I cannot advise about the more expensive ones, but....
having made one rough trip down the coast on a boat with a wind vane, I would *never* go blue water sailing without one. Whether Sailomat, Cape Horn, or Monitor (my last choice among this type of design due to its "jungle gym" mounting system), be sure that you have one. There are other worthy brands I have not mentioned, as well.
For an AP, one has to choose between electric or hydraulic drive, and each has its quirks. Control heads vary in their sophistication as well. I have met sailors that swore by their Nexus controller for their Autohelm drive unit, for instance.


Best,
Loren in PDX

I have a Simrad AP22 with the 13" Hydraulic Linear Drive. So far it has been bullet proof. I never really considered any other manufacturers because the boat came with its predecessor, the Robertson 1000, and I replaced components over time. The Robertson unit lasted 15 years. This unit will set you back about $4,000 (discount) plus the cost of installation. On the 32-3, there is no room for a tiller arm, so you have to mount the drive on the quadrant, which, therefore, should re reinforced. My PO failed to do that and the tiller arm tore out of the quadrant.

Geoff Johnson said:

I have a Simrad AP22 with the 13" Hydraulic Linear Drive. So far it has been bullet proof. I never really considered any other manufacturers because the boat came with its predecessor, the Robertson 1000, and I replaced components over time. The Robertson unit lasted 15 years. This unit will set you back about $4,000 (discount) plus the cost of installation. On the 32-3, there is no room for a tiller arm, so you have to mount the drive on the quadrant, which, therefore, should re reinforced. My PO failed to do that and the tiller arm tore out of the quadrant.

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How did you end up reinforcing the quadrant? I am sure my 32-200 has the same space limitations in the aft compartments as your 32-3, and so I won't be able to use a separate tiller arm, either.

And what is a "PO" person?

PO=Previous Owner, if that's what you meant by your question.

I had to get a new quadrant because the PO (P*ssed Off) attached the outboard end of ram to the cast quadrant and the attaching bolt broke out. The new quadrant was reinforced with a semi-circular 1/4" aluminum plate that covers the forward portion of the quadrant and is attached by machine screws tapped into the quadrant. Now the ram connecting bolt goes through the quadrant and the plate. My yard had it done by a machine shop. The reinforcement cost me only $100 as I recall (on top of the cost of replacing the quadrant).

My other pasttime is amateur astronomy, so I know all about custom-machined parts. I had to have a custom adapter made to couple my Santa Barabara Instruments CCD camera to my BORG refractor. It looks like a factory part, and perfectly matches the finish of the telescope. If you think owning a boat is a hit on your wallet, you should try amateur astronomy and astroimaging. Here's a snapshot of my other "baby": http://www.batch.com/astro/images/STL_125ED.jpg

$100 sounds about right for the reinforcing plate you described. I hire a guy who specializes in weird custom machined parts for astronomers, he's at PreciseParts.com. in case you may want to check out his work.

Then you should look at the Simrad. Very nicely machined and heavy duty. The one on my boat is rated for boats up to 80 feet.

Geoff Johnson said:

Then you should look at the Simrad. Very nicely machined and heavy duty. The one on my boat is rated for boats up to 80 feet.

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How much power does it draw?

You can get a copy of the brochure here:

www.simrad.com/PDF_Library/SimradAP25Seriesbrochure.pdf


I have the HLD2000L drive unit. It looks like you could use the MLD200, which uses less power, but its not hydraulic.

Navman G-Pilot

Last year we put G-Pilot in our E32-3. With the baby on the way at that time, did not have much use for it yet, but sea trials were good. Had to order a special tiller arm though.

Regards,
Stanly

Auto Pilot

Mike: Did you ever decide on an autopilot, and if so, how did you deal with installation and space challenges on your 32-200?

Mike,

I have the 32-2. We have the B&G H-1000 system too, but went with the Simrad wheel pilot. There wasn't enough room below decks to go with a hydraulic system and that was overkill IMHO anyway. The wheel pilot works great and interfaces perfectly with my B&G system. It drives to compass heading, waypoint or wind angle. The service is great too. We had a mishap with it where a screwhead had backed out a little and somehow interfered with the engagement of the clutch. I tried to force it in and broke it. I took off the unit (once installed, taking off the unit took about 15 minutes total), packed it up and sent it back. Within a week, we had a brand new one which had been upgraded with several modifications, one of which was designed to alleviate the very problem I experienced. Simrad replaced it for free and even paid for the shipping both ways.

Hope this helps.

Jim McCone
Voice of Reason, E-32-2 Hull #134
Redondo Beach, CA