• Untitled Document

    Join us on March 29rd, 7pm EST

    for the CBEC Virtual Meeting

    All EYO members and followers are welcome to join the fun and get to know the guest speaker!

    See the link below for login credentials and join us!

    March Meeting Info

    (dismiss this notice by hitting 'X', upper right)

Questions about replacing those trailer plugs

supersailor

Contributing Partner
Thanks Frank. Loren did a check with an infared temperature sensor on his trailer plugs and found a large temperature gain at the trailer plugs. Somehow that necessary replacement morphed into a complete engine replacement. You gotta watch these repairs morphing into monsters. A new Beta sure sounds neat, though!

A check like Loren's will tell you if the plugs still are ok. If you have the time, replacement is a good idea.

The side panel removes on the 34. The starter is easy to remove. A flex drive on a socket might work to remove the bolts. Try soaking the bolts with PB Blaster for a couple of days prior to the removal.
 
Last edited:

Frank Langer

1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
Thanks, Bob. I did recall Loren's post about his temp check on the trailor plugs so I checked mine with my temp sensor. There was no extra heat at the plugs and they look fine when I pull them apart. I agree that they are kind of rudimentary and inappropriate there, so I'll replace them this fall. That, and having the solenoid and starter serviced should eliminate whatever is causing my intermittent starting issue.
Frank
 

Soupy sails

Member II
Great thread! I've been having the same type of issues with my electrical system I replaced the starter, also the glow plug button and starter button and cleaned all the contacts. I'm not exactly clear on what a "trailer plug" is my ignorance about this boat is both wide and deep. I'm thinking that since I've done everything else the last thing to go will be the key switch since it's ganged up with so many systems. I have checked the grounds but it won't hurt to go at them all again.
My system will give me trouble even at the dock and I'm now having starting problems so I'm thinking glow plugs? Is there a diagram for that relay install? I'm in awe of that engine shot. I now have a goal to shoot for.
 
Last edited:

Frank Langer

1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
Soupy Sails,
It's possible that the trailer plugs have already been replaced and rewired on your boat by a previous owner. If not, you will find them in the clump of wires going from the engine panel to the engine. It seems there are usually two, the first one close to the engine panel, the second in the engine compartment. They are off white rubber, about 2 inches long, 1 inch wide and 1/2 inch thick, approximately. There is a thin crack across the middle, where the plug pulls apart, revealing the metal pin connections inside. Mine were initially hard to pull apart, until I added some dielectric grease, but now they come apart fairly readily.
I can't post a pic of them, but I hope that helps.
Frank
 

Soupy sails

Member II
Thanks Frank,

Yeah that helps a lot. This entire thread has been helpful, in fact I can't begin to say how glad I was to find this site I refer to it all the time looking for solutions to different issues I've been having with this old boat and engine. I love her dearly but I'm not even close to understanding her. My last boat used a 9 horse gas, outboard kicker that was so much simpler to maintain and sail but this boat sails so nice, I'm not ready to give up on the more complicated engine and electrical system, I figured out the last boat I'm sure I'll figure this one out as well.
 

Frank Langer

1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
Yes, the expertise and helpfulness of the sailors on this site are quite amazing and have saved many of us lots of grief, dollars and mistakes. Like you, I had only sailed smaller boats with outboard engines before buying our E30+ thirteen years ago. I knew nothing about diesel engines, boat plumbing and electrical systems. The book by Nigel Calder entitled something like "Boatowners Mechanical and Electrical Manual" was a great start for me and is still my "go to" bible on the boat for any maintenance issue, but this site has also been invaluable. I now do most of my own problem solving and maintenance except for the internal engine stuff, for which I still call a diesel mechanic, though that is almost never necessary any more.
But I still get stumped, especially by the intermittent electrical problems like the one in this thread. That's where this site is great!!

Frank
 

kiwisailor

Member III
Blogs Author
Hi,
I have owned our E30+ for 13 years, and noted early on that the starting circuit has been rewired to shorten the long wire runs and increase wire thickness as has often been discussed on this site. But the trailer plugs had not been replaced in the engine compartment and in the engine panel area. I have regularly taken the plugs apart to ensure they were clean and added some dielectric grease to keep them functional. But I now have an occasional episode where when I activate the start button, nothing happens, especially after anchoring out. It never happens when the boat is on shore power and fully charged. The batteries have been thoroughly tested, wiring cleaned and tested in the engine panel and at the solenoid and starter. So that leaves only the trailer plugs as a possible source of resistance and low voltage, I think. So I'm planning to replace them with bus bars.
So, my questions: The fix seems to be to cut off the plugs, clean the wires, crimp on ring terminals and attach to the bus bar. In our boat the wiring seems pretty tight and I'm concerned I may not have enough slack to reattach the wires - - have any of you encountered that? Secondly, I will need two bus bars, and that may be ok, but would it be much better to simply run new wires from each connection on the engine to the engine panel without the added complexity of two bus bars?
I know just replacing the trailer plugs with bus bars would be easier than rewiring, and the bus bars provide an open, accessible connection to check voltage or resistance in the future.
Any thoughts or advice from those of you who have done this?
Thanks,
Frank

Maine Sail has detailed article on how to approach the problem of the wiring harness. https://pbase.com/mainecruising/universal_wiring_harness_upgrade
 

Soupy sails

Member II
Kiwiwsailor,

Thank you, thank you, thank you this is exactly what I was looking for. One quick question to anyone who might know. The start buzzer alarm is also wired as an engine overheat alarm I don't really care about the start alarm (I know I've energized the fuel pump) but I would like to keep the engine overheat buzz alarm since an aural alarm here is a good thing. I don't see this buzzer in any of the system layouts is this an extra? Should I just discard it? What are other people doing with this alarm buzzer? I keep a close eye on my engine temp. There's so much stuff in the water here abouts that getting gunk in the raw water intake is pretty common. Happened twice on my last cruise. So I'd prefer to keep this alarm. Is there a better solution other folks here are using?

Thanks to everyone on this thread.
 

kiwisailor

Member III
Blogs Author
Kiwiwsailor,

Thank you, thank you, thank you this is exactly what I was looking for. One quick question to anyone who might know. The start buzzer alarm is also wired as an engine overheat alarm I don't really care about the start alarm (I know I've energized the fuel pump) but I would like to keep the engine overheat buzz alarm since an aural alarm here is a good thing. I don't see this buzzer in any of the system layouts is this an extra? Should I just discard it? What are other people doing with this alarm buzzer? I keep a close eye on my engine temp. There's so much stuff in the water here abouts that getting gunk in the raw water intake is pretty common. Happened twice on my last cruise. So I'd prefer to keep this alarm. Is there a better solution other folks here are using?

Thanks to everyone on this thread.

On my engine control panel I only have a buzzer connected to the oil pressure sender, that's probably what you call the start buzzer. I'm guessing you also have some type of high temperature sender unit connected to the same buzzer also. If you like the high temp buzzer just keep it. In my case I just keep a close eye on my temp gauge - 175f to 180f is normal operation for my boat.

I followed Maine Sail's guide to install the jumper from the alternator to the starter to eliminate the long wire path to and from the engine control panel to the starter motor, this is a major improvement to engine cranking and also a must do if you upgrade the stock alternator to anything larger (I upgraded to a 70A Balmar). I cleaned up and rebuilt the engine control panel connections and my Ammeter now only shows current used by the panel itself (light bulbs and buzzer) and when I hold the glow plug switch on. I could have also put in the glow plug solenoid relay to reduce any voltage drop and speed up the glow plug time but I decided not to. I retained the trailer plugs as they were both in good condition and carry minimal current now.

These diagrams may be helpful also.

Engine Wiring harness diagram.jpg engine wiring3.jpg
 
Last edited:

Frank Langer

1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
Regarding that warning Buzzer. Many boats, including mine have a high temp warning and an oil pressure warning, as either problem can ruin an engine quickly. They also have the Buzzer sound when turning the start key, which is annoying but is the best way for you to know that the Buzzer is still working. I have times when I have grandkids sleeping aboard, or leave a marina or anchorage early in the morning and don't want to wake everyone. So I added a toggle switch into that circuit so I can easily turn off the alarm when starting the engine, and then toggle the Buzzer back on once underway. I like this, but have to remember to switch it back on.
Frank
 

Soupy sails

Member II
Thanks Kiwisailor,

Nice, I see the "red removal" and the "blue connect" very clear, that's very helpful I can't wait to give it a go. I have a lot of things to consider now. In another post someone, may have been you, showed a plan to turn the panel "upside down" by placing the switches at the top of the panel, I think that's a great solution to keeping those switches a little dryer something else we have to deal with here in the PNW because of so much winter rain.

Thanks again for the excellent diagram,

Dan
 

G Kiba

Sustaining Member
Just my 2 cents. My intermittent starting problem turned out to be a ground problem. Terminal was clean but the connection between wire and terminal was the issue. Crimped terminal had corroded. I cleaned and soldered it - no more issues. However the time and money spent was disheartening.
 

Soupy sails

Member II
G Kiba,

Thank you for posting. Sometimes I learn more about my boat from chasing ghosts and dead ends. Of course I'd always rather be using that time sailing but knowing that every eye is dotted and every t crossed is worth the extra time and trouble in peace of mind if nought else.
My 2

Dan
 

supersailor

Contributing Partner
Frank, One last question. How are the batteries doing? If they are on the older side, a cell could have went bad meaning rapid drain of that bank and big symtoms after a night on the hook.
 

Frank Langer

1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
Hi Bob,
Thanks for continuing to think about this issue!
When it first began to happen I suspected the aging house batteries, cause the engine always started right after that when I switched the batteries to 'both/all".
As the house bank was 14 years old I decided to replace them, even though they tested ok. I replaced them three years ago with AGM 200 amps in the house bank. I rarely use more than 40 amps per night anchoring out, and always motor for an hour to recharge next morning, and then again when putting sails away and anchoring again.
Just to be sure I had the battery shop do both a load test and a 20 hour run test, and both house batteries checked out well - - 96% and 91% after 3 years. So I think batteries are not the problem.
I'm going to recheck the ground connections (for the nth time!) then replace the trailer plugs which is probably a good idea anyway even though they are carrying light current now, and if that doesn't solve it, I'll get the solenoid and starter motor serviced.
Thanks again!
Frank
 
Last edited:

Tom Metzger

Sustaining Partner
Thanks Kiwisailor,

Nice, I see the "red removal" and the "blue connect" very clear, that's very helpful I can't wait to give it a go. I have a lot of things to consider now. In another post someone, may have been you, showed a plan to turn the panel "upside down" by placing the switches at the top of the panel, I think that's a great solution to keeping those switches a little dryer something else we have to deal with here in the PNW because of so much winter rain.

Thanks again for the excellent diagram,

Dan

Dan - The diagram does look a little familiar. Here is the text to go with the diagram.

http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoex...-Universal-Diesel-Wiring-Modifications-How-To
 

Soupy sails

Member II
Thank you Tom,

Got it and printed it. I'm fairly sure the trailer plugs have been removed at least one of them. But my boat is using an ammeter which I would like to change out for a volt meter. In any case I can remove some of this excess wiring and clean some things up until I get the new gauge.

Dan
 

supersailor

Contributing Partner
Frank, Hmm could it possibly be the contact on the old battery switch? You mentioned it happens when you switch to both.
 

Frank Langer

1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
Hi Bob,
No, it happens very intermittently when I'm starting the engine with the house battery. When I switch to both /all, it always starts right away. I did replace the battery switch a few years ago, so it's not old, and I have no reason to suspect it.
Frank
 

Tom Metzger

Sustaining Partner
...so it's not old, and I have no reason to suspect it.
Frank

It reminds me a little of my dear old sister. She had never had a sick day in her life, and then one day... Bang! She was pregnant!

If you don't want to listen to Bob listen to me. CHECK THE SWITCH. If the batteries are good and the only thing that changes is the switch you have reason to suspect it.
 
Top