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Replacing Pencil Anode in Penta 2002 after 13 years

sjconnor

Simon Connor
I have a Volvo Penta 2002 in my Olson 34 and I've only just recent realised there is a Zinc Pencil Anode that's supposed to be replaced on a regular (once a year) basis. I've had the boat for 13 years and got on with it as quickly as possible.

Bought the anodes from the UK and had them shipped out to Singapore.

I'd previously tried to undo the anode (which is a brass square bolt head) with an adjustable spanner, but it wasn't budging so I created a youtube video on the techniques I used which worked for me.

In summary for those who don't want to sit through the video;

1. I found that my socket set had a 1/2" square design where the ratchets etc clip into, this fitted perfectly on the square brass anode head
2. Got my largest allen key which was 3/8" and the same size socket piece to create a nice fitting spanner tool
3. WD40 on the bolt
4. Sprayed compressed air to chill the brass bolt to try to shrink it (A dust spray can often be used as a freeze spray. Many gas dusters contain HFC-134a (tetrafluoroethane), which is widely used as a propellant and refrigerant.)
5. Used a steel tube over the allen key to slowly lever the bolt open instead of tapping it with a hammer which could have sheared off the head
6. Removed the anode bolt (no anode left) cleaned out the hole, fitted a new anode onto the bolts, replaced the bolt with some anti-sieze compound.

Job Done!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lGq-bcF3gqQ&t=103s
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Interesting to see this engine fitted into the Olson engine compartment. Someone had to glass in a custom bed log holder. Engine looks like it sits higher, too, and more forward toward the batteries.
My former Universal diesel had an anode in the HE that was blunt on the inside end. Yours looks like it threads into some other part on the inside. Thanks much for sharing this narrative and the video.
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
The aerosol can also works to cool beer if you don't have a refrigerator. It is a very simple thermodynamic phenomenon that I find easy to understand.

What I don't understand is how come those screw-on pencil zincs are threaded the way they are. Twice I have removed the bronze base only to have the corroded zinc unscrew and remain behind.

Good video.
 

Rocinante33

Contributing Partner
Simon,

I’m not sure what anti-seize compound you used, but for this application it might make a difference. Something like Tef-Gel or lanocoat might provide a layer of insulation between those threads when you want maximum conductivity. You want those electrons to flow freely through the zinc anode for maximum protection.

Perhaps a dielectric grease would do the trick, but I usually don’t put anything on those threads....just metal to metal contact.
 

sjconnor

Simon Connor
The aerosol can also works to cool beer if you don't have a refrigerator. It is a very simple thermodynamic phenomenon that I find easy to understand.

What I don't understand is how come those screw-on pencil zincs are threaded the way they are. Twice I have removed the bronze base only to have the corroded zinc unscrew and remain behind.

Good video.


I totally agree with you, I was expecting the thread on the anode to be reversed otherwise it could surely quite easily unscrew itself and stay inside the engine.
 

sjconnor

Simon Connor
The aerosol can also works to cool beer if you don't have a refrigerator. It is a very simple thermodynamic phenomenon that I find easy to understand.

What I don't understand is how come those screw-on pencil zincs are threaded the way they are. Twice I have removed the bronze base only to have the corroded zinc unscrew and remain behind.

Good video.

That's great information - that it can be used to chill a beer in a survival scenario :)
 

sjconnor

Simon Connor
Simon,

I’m not sure what anti-seize compound you used, but for this application it might make a difference. Something like Tef-Gel or lanocoat might provide a layer of insulation between those threads when you want maximum conductivity. You want those electrons to flow freely through the zinc anode for maximum protection.

Perhaps a dielectric grease would do the trick, but I usually don’t put anything on those threads....just metal to metal contact.

Hi Keith, I couldn't find the brand online, but will take a picture of it's uses/contents etc
 
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