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What would you pay for a 1984 35-3 if....

Intervivos

New Member
I am new here, and I am looking to purchase my first boat. Trying to get a feel for the process, would like to make an offer on a 1984 35-3. What would your initial offer be given the following:


  • The Deck looks in decent shape, anchor locker and the top of the toe rail have cracking but appear to be solid.
  • Some water intrusion and a little rot on around the interior starboard dorade vent.
  • Cabin sole under the companionway ladder is soft and in need of replacement.
  • Engine is original and runs good. Current owner says is doesn't consume any fluids. No hour meter. Wires everywhere.
  • Bimini is old but ok, dodger needs replacement.
  • Autopilot is more recent, rest of the instruments are older.
  • Wiring/electrical will need troubleshooting (when you turn on one cabin light the whole lighting system goes down.) Condition of batteries is unclear.
  • owner doesn't know if the standing rigging has ever been replaced, but visual inspection doesn't show any noticeable defects. The boat has sailed in saltwater, but its current home is in freshwater.
  • running rigging is not bad but not good.
  • Deck hatches may leak and plexi is crazed.
  • refrigerator, water heater, water pressure don't work. Didn't try the stove.

Owner is asking around $27K. I get the feeling that the "bones" of the boat are good, but all of the comfort systems have been neglected. I will use this to cruise around the great lakes. My initial feeling was to offer $18K...I will have a survey done, but don't want to start off too low/high. For reference, 35-3 boats that have been repowered and/or have had the standing rigging replaced seem to be in the $35-45K range.

Opinions/comments are welcome, thanks!
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
If there's a public listing, posting the link will help draw opinions.

This sounds like a project boat. They require time and tools and cash.

What you pay is not as important as the commitment. Getting in is easy, getting out is hard.
 

Intervivos

New Member
If there's a public listing, posting the link will help draw opinions.

This sounds like a project boat. They require time and tools and cash.

What you pay is not as important as the commitment. Getting in is easy, getting out is hard.

Sorry, forgot the link: https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1984/ericson-35-3558150/?refSource=browse listing

I think I have the tools and time to do most of the repairs myself, except a re-power. The plan is to buy a boat and sail/work on it for 5-7 years and learn what I really like/dislike in terms of systems and features and move onto another boat. I am setting aside about $6K/year for ongoing maintenance/upgrades, and as long as the boat is safe to sail I can do without showers, refrigeration, and cabin lights for a while. If the survey shows it as a strong boat that needs work (and I can get it at the right price) I think I could make this a very nice vessel.
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
I'm impressed. Wow, in fact, especially if shoal draft comes in handy.

For this specimen an offer of 18K sounds a bit lowball. At least be armed with other competing local boats for sale to make your case for a fire-sale offer.

But you never know, of course. Winta is coming.
 

debonAir

Member III
I have an 84 35-3 so can offer some advice

1 - the engine is important. if it looks good and runs good that is a real plus. think $20k to replace in the future. Wires everywhere are indicative of a less experienced prior owner but could also mean that issues were fixed that needed fixing. The cabin light thing is a more clear indication the prior owner didn't understand electricity. With the headliner, running wires isn't so hard on the boat and I'd call that not a big deal if you know what you're doing and don't have to pay yard rates

2 - look at the sails. you don't want to buy a boat you can't sail immediately. that first sail on your new boat is what'll commit you to all the much-harder-than-you-thought work you'll be doing later. if you get into the work first you might just give up realizing you'll maybe never splash her for years and be discouraging. sails will cost around $7-10k to replace

3 - check the pedestal and steering system carefully: open the emergency tiller inspection port and check the bushings. look at the quadrant and cables closely for missing/worn parts. whack around the pedestal base which might be disintegrated aluminum powder under the white paint. this is important for safety before the first sail. the steering is hard to fix/replace and a new pedestal is $2-3k for parts and a lot more labor

4 - all the anchor locker covers I've seen are crazed and cracked, and probably all of them have some soggy balsa in them. that's not a deal breaker. a lot of dorade boxes have leaked as well. most important to check the deck core around the dorades and between the mast and chain plates. if that's got a lot of moisture in it that'll be a serious effort to fix. it can be done but you really gotta love the boat to get in to that.

5 - good new electronics have high price tags but in reality, if I add up all I spent installing all new chart plotter, radar, AIS, VHF, speed/depth, it was still less than a single main sail, so its actually cheap comparatively (and use that for a reality check!! $4000 on electronics is *cheap* in E35 boat-bucks!) so that's not a thing to worry about

I agree that the boat might be a bit over-priced as is, but not by as much to offer $18k. If a survey shows a dry deck and sails and steering are OK I'm inclined to think mid $20s is fair starting point. Good luck! Keep in mind also that costs scale with feet and an e35 will require professional hauling and launching and storage on the hard for winter, etc.
 
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Mort Fligelman

Member III
35-3 With 4 Cyl Engine?

This was not within the original spec of this boat.....I know the 38 has a 4 Cyl....BUT?

Would make me wonder about a repower.....with possible USED engine....

As to price.....forget all of the rest.....18K would make up for a lot of sins and based on the master plan it is one hell of a deal (if you get t for that)!

The Prop alone is worth north of 3K.

On all else I agree with Debonair.
 

Intervivos

New Member
Thanks for all the replies and info/advice. The $18K figure was pretty much based not so much on what this boat is worth, but what other boats are going for in the area. A 84 Pearson 323 with an engine that is currently being rebuilt is on the market for $14.9K. 1983 Cape dory 30 for $25K. 1983 Tartan 33 for $12K. All worthy boats, but there is something about the ericson.

Will let you know what plays out, thanks again!
 

fool

Member III
I have an '86 35-3 and am in agreement with debonAir's fine points.

Delaminating teak and holly sole is a known in these boats. Lots of advice on how to is available this site, and one of my 'round-2-its.

Electrical is also a known issue, replace the engine starter to panel trailer harness wiring with buss bars at your earliest convenience. Plenty of how to advise and experience on this site as well. I'll be reworking mine in late September. Let me know if you'd like to read why in a couple of external links.

Chances are good you'd want to replace all the nav instruments with something more up to date anyway, so get what you want and install it. I've see folks go all out, and I've seen folks really take the KISS approach. There is a happy place in there for everyone.

These boats sail really well, so check into that sail bank. There are quite a few in the listing that indicate the boat was getting some really quality use.

Mid-80's boats in fair condition sell for about $1K/foot and up in my market, add $5K to $8K in good condition, subtract $5K to $8K in less than fair condition. Your vessel is in less than fair condition, but $18K seems more like a price for a 35-2 than a 35-3.

Mid-80's boats smaller than 35' are not in the same performance ballpark or price range, IMHO. You can't really compare 30 - 32' with 35 and up (although I'll bet I'll get a lot of assertions otherwise...)

Like I said, IMHO,

Max
 

debonAir

Member III
Mid-80's boats smaller than 35' are not in the same performance ballpark or price range, IMHO. You can't really compare 30 - 32' with 35 and up (although I'll bet I'll get a lot of assertions otherwise...)
Max

It isn't even just the performance improvement. A 35' is a whole different experience. Every part of the operation is a bit slower and smoother with all the mass and length. You have room for a stand up shower with hot water which makes a real big difference after a few days out. It is a sweet spot in size. Go bigger and things get a lot more expensive quickly.
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
I agree that the comparison boats are not market equivalents.

Big deal 32-3 to 38 in lifestyle terms? Meh.
 

bgary

Advanced Beginner
Blogs Author
It isn't even just the performance improvement....

Yeah, because the 32-III is a light-air rocket!

the 32-III has ~90% the waterline length of the 35-III, and only ~75% of the weight.

Anything other than hull-speed conditions, we're going to be that pesky little boat that just won't go away (lol)

Bruce (okay, okay, I'll quit hijacking the thread and go back to my "safe space")
 

gabriel

Live free or die hard
Count on replacing an engine soon, the old ones just aren't holding up well with the introduction of Ultra Low Sulfur diesel.
 

debonAir

Member III
The two issues with ULSD are 1) fuel lubricity: its lower, leading to perhaps more wear on HP fuel pump, and 2) water affinity: its higher, especially when transported in a tanker that had biofuel or ethanol in it previously. Water accelerates tank corrosion and microbial growth.

The ULSD manufacturers already do take steps to mitigate the lubricity issue since it effects cars and trucks as well, but both issues are easily addressed with a good diesel treatement like Stanodyne.

I don't see any reason modern ULSD would shorten an old engine's lifespan if the fuel's treated properly.
 

supersailor

Contributing Partner
The PHRF Base ratings (150, folding prop, Spinnaker) for:

Boat PHRF

32-3 - 156

34-2 - 123

35-3 - 123

38 - 114

Size speaks loudly.
 
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Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
The PHRF Base ratings (150, folding prop, Spinnaker) for:

Boat PHRF

32-3 - 156

34-2 - 123

35-3 - 123

38 - 114

Size speaks loudly.

(Chuckle.....) Yup, it speaks, but not all of us have equal listening skills.... :D Or, sailing skills....

My O-34 rates about 99 down in SF Bay, FWIW.
Around here with a smaller jib it would likely be around 120 or so. The thing is, it is faster than the BK Ericson's only on certain points of sail.

It really only earns that lower handicap number off the wind in a breeze. Driving to weather it is just another displacement hull with a 28 foot DWL. I have
driven an E-33RH quite a bit, and it seemed just as fast to weather as my boat; it's hard to beat those balanced waterlines.

Downwind in 24 kts, then out hull shows what a flatter stern section can do. :)

All boats have their stronger points of sail. The nice thing about the Ericson's is how easy they are to sail up their potential, i.e. they just like to perform well.
 
L

Leslie Newman

Guest
Just remember that something is only worth what another will pay for it. When someone is selling a boat, they are done with it. It is either a burden or some other circumstance. It is usually costing them money for it to sit. Taxes, slip fee, insurance.

This boat is 35 years old. Looking at the engine, prior owners didn't care much about maintenance. I know there is a balance between using the boat and working on the boat, but you can tell when an owner has taken good care of something.

Just figure that you'll be replacing most everything on the boat (rigging, systems, electronics, etc) and base your offer on that.

Keep emotion out of it. You want to get the boat at the best price because you are going to be shelling out $$ to make it reliable. Let someone else pay too much. $18K sounds fair considering what you will be spending on rigging and such, as long as the hull and deck are sound. Has the deck hardware ever been re-bedded? All sorts of questions come to mind.

I had a 1982 O'Day 34 and in 2004 the original aluminum fuel tank sprung a leak, had to be replaced. Is the fuel tank original? The Full Specs in the ad name all sorts of stuff but neglect to say how old each is. Is all that stuff 35 years old, because if so most of it is done or at least needs to be gone over. When was the hull painted? Paint on a hull has a shelf life. They note the blue hull as a plus, but it is a painted hull.

CNG stove. I like the idea of natural gas. Lighter than air, verses the propane that will settle in the bilge. Our stove is CNG. But in our area getting a tank refill can only be done in Annapolis or Norfolk. Either direction for me is a long drive. We find that a tank will last a season. It was only like $35 for a refill.

All sorts of things to keep in mind as you decide to jump into boat ownership.

As an example of price....our boat before last, a CAL 33-2 was listed at $35K. We ended up purchasing the boat for $23,500 after some haggling.
 
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gabriel

Live free or die hard
The two issues with ULSD are 1) fuel lubricity: its lower, leading to perhaps more wear on HP fuel pump, and 2) water affinity: its higher, especially when transported in a tanker that had biofuel or ethanol in it previously. Water accelerates tank corrosion and microbial growth.

The ULSD manufacturers already do take steps to mitigate the lubricity issue since it effects cars and trucks as well, but both issues are easily addressed with a good diesel treatement like Stanodyne.

I don't see any reason modern ULSD would shorten an old engine's lifespan if the fuel's treated properly.


IF it's treated with dyne and that's a big fat IF. nothing worse than a diesel engine with a smelly leaky fuel pump/injectors even though it runs perfectly.
 
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jreddington

Member III
Sorry, forgot the link: https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1984/ericson-35-3558150/?refSource=browse listing

I think I have the tools and time to do most of the repairs myself, except a re-power. The plan is to buy a boat and sail/work on it for 5-7 years and learn what I really like/dislike in terms of systems and features and move onto another boat. I am setting aside about $6K/year for ongoing maintenance/upgrades, and as long as the boat is safe to sail I can do without showers, refrigeration, and cabin lights for a while. If the survey shows it as a strong boat that needs work (and I can get it at the right price) I think I could make this a very nice vessel.

And it has CUPHOLDERS !!:egrin:
 
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