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35-3 furler line

RCsailfast

RCsailfast

E35-3 Illinois
Been having issues with too much line in the drum or not spooling correctly.
Tried removing the core to make more room but that causes issues with overrides as the jackets is so soft it packs and won’t furl easy when pulling up he line out. We’ve tried moving the last block to better angle alignment with little success. Does anyone have pics of how the line is routed coming out of the drum? Also wondering what the best block or fair lead is to use there to prevent chafe and directional change loads.
 
Christian Williams

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
These pix show the angle that works on my boat.

There should be about four turns still on the drum when the sail is fully furled. [not "deployed," as I first typed]. I always keep some hand tension, and never use a winch on the roller furler line.

I use New England Ropes "regatta braid 3/8ths", a very supple line that's easy on the hands. I keep a replacement line on board, since the right size and length of line is probably not otherwise available should the furler line break (which is unlikely, but has happened to me).

1-E381 bow 1.JPG1-E38 bow anchor roller.JPGNER Regatta braid2.jpg
 
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RCsailfast

RCsailfast

E35-3 Illinois
Yes, about 4 turns is what we do in case we have a real tight Cheech and Chong roll job. Looks like your block is deck mounted. Ours is mounted bas far back and low on the bow pulpits possible but angles are are all wrong. Thanks for the pics.
Was it like that or did you install it. Without pulling the anchor locker not sure if I install a backer plate.
 
Christian Williams

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
The angle is all-important, as you know. Screws might work into over-drilled epoxy holes.
 
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markvone

markvone

Sustaining Member
Hi Randy,

You mentioned removing the core of the furling line and using the jacket. The strong part of the line is the core. The jacket is for protection of the core (UV and abrasion) and to bulk up the line for handling. You can remove the jacket and use the core (racers do this to save weight) but I would not do the opposite. You can also buy some lines in a single braid with no cover, mostly high tech fibers such as Dyneema

FWIW. my furler (old Harken Mk 1.5) line is 5/16 Sta-Set. My line enters the drum exactly like Christian's picture from a Harken ball bearing bullet block. My block is mounted low on the aft-most tube of the bow pulpit to get the correct angle straight into the drum. Enough line fits on the drum to furl a 150 genoa with an LP of almost 22 feet plus extra wraps.

Mark
 
RCsailfast

RCsailfast

E35-3 Illinois
The only reason I removed the core was to make more room. This was recommended by Hood on the previous boats furler. Also Harken said it was fine when contacting them about other matters. Line manufactures state the core and jacket each share 50% of the load and the core has no UV protection.

With that hat said on racing spin sheets we had the jackets removed to make them lighter but still strong. But we always put them below when not used. Still only lasted a few years due to UV damage. If we get the angle issue resolved will try using full line again for maximum strength.

We have tried several styles of blocks on every tube on the bow with little success.

Thanks for the replies.
 
M

Mort Fligelman

Member III
Furling line

Randy:

My 35-3 is in Slip P75 at Northpoint......I am familiar with your boat, as I saw it when Jim Molick owned it, and when Adrian Z owned it, and had it in Northpoint.

To my knowledge they did not have a problem, but things change.

Mine works beautifully, and you are more than welcome to have a look see.....

Contact me back channel and let me know if I can be of help.

Mort
 
RCsailfast

RCsailfast

E35-3 Illinois
Mort,
Thanks, I have been thinking about contacting you since we got the boat, at least just to meet you. We spoke to Jim before buying the boat and Mark at Larsen, who rebuilt the engine when he owned it.
Antares is a beautiful boat and was very well taken care of. As time goes by some things just need maintenance or repairs to keep it in top shape, or just make life easier.

Will be be in contact.
 
RCsailfast

RCsailfast

E35-3 Illinois
Late response to the thread.
Spoke with Mort last weekend and visited his boat while he was spending time with family. Was great to see another boat up close and compare differences. Spoke to his boat neighbor too on Volante, who wondered what we were doing. Small world, we both swear we know each other from somewhere lol.


Ordered a new block from Garhauer which is very similar to the Schaefer block on Mort’s boat.
https://www.garhauermarine.com/stan...hion-blocks/stanchion-swivel-block-sb-25.html

Never thought to look there and Harken doesn’t have anything like it. I know Garhauer stands behind there stuff and is well made. The price works too!

We will also revisit the line/core issue after the block arrives as the older line crushed flat like it was supposed to, but twisted like licorice causing other issues. Never had this issue with the Hood furler, but was a smaller boat with smaller sails.
 
Loren Beach

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
We changed over to the Garhauer stanchion block model SB-3. They really keep most of the furling line away from under-foot. There is nothing else like it on the market, AFAIK.
 
Christian Williams

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
I ordered this Schaefer Series 3 to replace my forward-most furler block.

It has ball bearings. That's the only furler block with any strain on it, and my ancient stand-up block squeaks.

Also, my old Schaefer stand-up, probably factory installed, is not through-bolted but held down by four #10 screws.

The new model has three screws. We'll see if three screws are up to the task, which I figure they probably are.

schaefer jpg.jpg
 
Slick470

Slick470

Member III
RCsailfast said:
We bought that one and returned it. It will only rotate about 45deg. Not 90deg like the Garhauer or Shaefer.
Click to expand...
Gotcha, that difference is pretty important if you need it. The Harken one came with the "lead block kit" that I bought along with our furler and it has worked fine for our install.
 
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