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Ice box lid hard to open E 38

e38 owner

Member III
Our ice box lid sticks on the larger box and take a pound in the center to jar it loose. Not high on the first mates list. The recessed handle is hard to grab. I was thinking of some sort of spectra strap connected to the handle. Anyone with solutions to the problem. Thanks
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Agreed.

The previous owner put a drawer handle on mine, and it solves the problem (there are better looking handles).

He drilled through the insulation and used long bolts and fender washers. I'm satisfied.

1-Ericson 381 ('84) galley2.JPG
 

Afrakes

Sustaining Member
Try a little sandpaper

Is it sticking because the outer trim on the lid has swollen up from moisture? If so locate where it is binding and sand it down a bit. That cured an identical problem we had on our ice box lid. That plus the fact that it was so custom the lid would only fit one way.
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Friction and Frost

These types of ice box lids are designed to try and minimize air exchange and thereby limit the icing up of the evaporator surface inside. The top piece rests on a "shoulder" of wood that depends on a close fit along the side where you may have binding and also on the horizontal (approx) half inch surface just about a half inch below the outer surface.
While that stops a lot of air and moisture intrusion, it still allows enough thru to cause noticeable ice formation after a week or two. Then you have to shut down, wipe up the water, and start up again....
i.e. "defrost" the box.

The more often you open lid and the longer you leave it open, the more moisture will enter. Much of this is inevitable with accessing it for cold beverages thru the day and meal prep.

I added a narrow and thin layer of "weather stripping foam" from the local hardware store to the little horizontal shoulder, about 15 years ago. I used the thinnest they had, about 3/16" before compression. Clean up the mating surface, and it's just peel-and-stick.
It's still there, and really due for replacement as it flattens out enough to compromise the seal.
A roll of this stuff is usually under $5., maybe half that.

I worried that the lid would then stick up too much, i.e. be a bit obtrusive /proud. Hardly noticeable in use.

So if the lid sticks, do sand the teak trim on the side of it or sand the teak vertical edge that it drops into.

If your model has a molded FRP or cast plastic lid and flange, then this "fix" may not help you.

FWIW, a friend that does custom boat restorations solves this conundrum by molding out matching lids and flanges that fit together so snugly that no "gasket" is needed. Why yes, it does take time, his or the customer's time... and time is money. And the best work costs labor, which required money. And........ that explains why our home fridge has a large floppy vinyl seal around the doors and lets just enough air escape that it grows mold that has to be removed twice a year. If we spent another 1K for a better fridge it might not do that, and so goes the tug-of-war between budget and utility. :rolleyes:

As usual, my experience may only apply to me, and YMMV, and whatever Christian sez to do just follow his advice!
:)
 
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markvone

Sustaining Member
My new ice box handles here:

http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?15608-Ice-Box-Lid-Handles

Easy to do if you are handy with a wood chisel.

Sanding the teak trim around the perimeter of the lid for a little more clearance will help with sticky lids. The teak swells with high humidity. The cold air leaking out around the edge of the condenses the moisture in the air and expands the teak trim. My lid gets tighter in warm humid weather and looser in cool dry weather.

Mark
 
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Afrakes

Sustaining Member
Sorry,

but adding a big ugly handle to solve a problem that may just need a little sanding sounds rather extreme. Every problem is not a nail and doesn't require a hammer.
 
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