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Ramp-launching an Ericson-23/keel?

bgary

Advanced Beginner
Blogs Author
A boater in Everett is trying to figure out how to get their new-to-them Ericson-23 (keel version) from the trailer to the water.

I don't know enough about these to know if the keel-version can be easily launched at a ramp, or if there are tips/tricks/best practices to know about.

Any advice?

Bruce
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
The boats in that range at our club are dry-sailed and hoisted in and out. Maybe such a hoist nearby?
 

supersailor

Contributing Partner
The secret is a trailer tongue extension. It throws the boat further back in the water without launching the tow vehicle. I regularly launched a SJ26 for over 30 years. With experienced crew: 30 minutes arrival to water. With no crew: 45 minutes arrival to launch. If that doesn't happen first launch, don't worry about it. Just redesign. The first launch with the 26 took 2 1/2 hours. My experienced crew and I looked like a bunch of idiots on the ramp. I did quickly learn that neither the boat or trailer manufacturers had a clue how to get a sailboat in the water.
 

bgary

Advanced Beginner
Blogs Author
Thanks.

These are new owners, and I think this is their first boat (I actually haven't met them yet, I only know of them from a thread on the sailing association thread I follow on FB).

There is not a hoist at the marina, or at Everett YC. There is a launch ramp, and a travellift. I suspect the travellift at the marina will be the easiest thing to do. Especially as the operators do this all day / every day, so it'll undoubtedly be less stress on the owners.

Bruce
 
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supersailor

Contributing Partner
The very best thing that can be done is link them up with an experienced trailersailor. There must be several in the general area of Evert/North Seattle that have E-23's or E-25's and tow. It's that ability to hook up and head for the Sea of Cortez that makes the pocket cruiser so interesting. How about Desolation Sound in one day?
 

debonAir

Member III
What these folks should consider *first* is what a brief swim in salt water will do to the trailer. Unless they have sealed lights, sealed electrics in general, hydraulic brakes, well greased bearings with buddies, etc. they will cause more damage to the trailer in 15 minutes of dipping than it would cost to travel-lift it. If the trailer has electric brakes they should not even consider dipping the trailer for example.

A 23 foot keel boat will weigh over 3000 lbs and need to get pretty deep to float. Even with a good steep ramp my 23' keel/cb O'Day just barely floated off with the truck's muffler pipe just starting to submerge. An extension would make that a bunch easier, but also adds another dimension to backing down the ramp! I would think a boat that draws around 4 feet near the middle would need a pretty long extension and a steep ramp. Neither is ideal for a marginal tow vehicle. Not a problem for a decent pickup or full-size SUV though.
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Ramps and Fixed Keels

First choice: launch with a public sling hoist.
Second: use a travel lift at a yard.

Third: find a way to use a slopped launch ramp with own vehicle.

If using a ramp, find one with a fairly steep angle - this angle can vary.
Only use it a high or near-high tide -- lower part will have a lot of slick growth on the paved surface.

Then use a trailer designed for this. Easy Loader used to have a model in the late 70's with a tilt arm on each side with their signature roller assembly on top of each tall arm. An extension tongue was still needed, but with the trailer all the way submerged the cable could be eased out and the rear roller assembly would hinge back and downward and (hopefully......) the boat would launch and float without banging the keel on the concrete.

Retrieving was quite entertaining to watch, as well. :rolleyes:

(Picture of such a trailer in reply 5 in this thread. https://forums.sailboatowners.com/i...a-27-and-questions-about-what-trailer.150219/ )

This would work OK if the draft was around 3.5 to 4 feet.

Plus, the trailer would corrode away pretty quickly from the salt water, also.

Not sure without some research... but I believe that these trailers are long off he market.
 
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supersailor

Contributing Partner
While there is trailer maintenance, boat maintenance drops almost to zero. Getting the boat away from that corrosive marine environment makes almost last forever. I added a freshwater flush to the engine cooling system (do not use a garden hose) meaning the exhaust does not need to be bathed in salt all the time. The bilge is dry. the wax and finish last like in your car. If you have a rigging problem, the whole boat can be transported to the rigger.

It took 20 years for the origional unprotected trailer to fall apart. I did add things like add fresh water flush kits for the drum brakes and the brakes and they were flushed after each immersion. The trailer was washed in fresh water after each use. The paint was touched up twice a year and that was about it.

The new trailer was built of anadozied aluminum in the mid west for $7,200. It only weighs 800lbs vs the 1,800lbs of the galvanized one. The trailer dealers out west were theves coming in at $9,800 for a galvanized trailer without electric winch. The midwest dealer threw it in and that $7,200 included delivery to my house. Disc brakes are really great, so easy to clean and work on.

My berthing cost would have been about $2,400 a year locally (SF Bay) so economically trailering made total sense.

Unfortunately, the 34 does not tow well without a semi rig and the neighbors might complain about the cabin amongst the local roof tops so in the marina it stays.
 
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