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Thread: Removing instrument pods

  1. #1
    Contributing Member II
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    Removing instrument pods

    A new day, a new challenge.

    Being new boat owners who are optimistic by nature, we thought the removal of the instrument pods would be a pretty quick job. After a couple hours, grinding screws to become bolts to ease the removal and finally removing them. Big cheer, we did it!

    Nope. The brackets are seized.

    Now after a week of scratching our heads and searching google for ideas, I am reaching out to this knowledgeable group before we grind them off. Any thoughts on a better way to remove them? See photos below.
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    Shannon Jones
    1986 Ericson 30+
    M18

    Current name: Eden (new name June22)

  2. #2
    Moderator Christian Williams's Avatar
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    Soak in PB Blaster. In my case, nothing worked--corrosion welding had occurred--and the Sawzall came out.
    Thelonious II, E381 hull 513 (1984) Universal 5432
    Table of Contents for Thelonious Blog here
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  3. #3
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    On it

    We’ve never used PB blaster before, but will give it a try and bring the sawzall.
    Shannon Jones
    1986 Ericson 30+
    M18

    Current name: Eden (new name June22)

  4. #4
    Squid! David Grimm's Avatar
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    PB Blaster didn't work for me... however the angle grinder did a fine job! Just finished my stainless pod.
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    1986 Ericson 38-200 #206
    Knot Normal
    Universal 5432

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wannasailsoon View Post
    We’ve never used PB blaster before, but will give it a try and bring the sawzall.
    50:50 Acetone and automatic transmission fluid makes an excellent penetrating mix. I have used it often on various seized metal parts with success. Once I had a set of Caterpillar D2 track chains (known as the rails) that were in a coil. I bought them from an estate. They had been left outside on a pallet by family of a deceased fellow. Anyway, I would spritz the pins and bushings every day with my mix. Then one day I put the pry bar on the chain and something gave. In this case it took a few weeks and patience. Make sure to shake the mixture before spritzing.

    Another great penetrating oil is KROIL. It is rather expensive, but really does penetrate better than most.

    Of course nothing beats heat for getting stuck metal parts separated.
    Leslie Newman
    E-380 #15 "Osprey"

  6. #6
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    Any time dissimilar metals are involved I just turn to the hot wrench. In your case you would probably cook the electrical wires but if that's not a problem and you were going to replace those anyway its the way to go.

    You want to use Oxy Acetylene if you can. Really hard to get enough heat out of a little propane torch to do the job on something that size. But if that's all you've got get 2 or 3 torches on it if you can. One advantage with propane is you probably aren't going to melt the aluminum. You do have to be extra careful using Oxy Acetylene on aluminum since it gives very little warning before it slumps and melts.

    I'd wrap wet cloths around the ss stanchions and heat the aluminum casting as hot as you can before trying to break it free.
    But done right the aluminum will expand and break free from the SS stanchion with maybe a couple of sharp raps to help it along.

    I'd also keep a couple of buckets of water handy, both in case of fire and to cool down the pods when they come off before you set them down on fiberglass.

    Good Luck!

    Kevin Wright
    E35 Hydro Therapy

  7. #7
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    Be careful using PB Blaster around seals. It tends to dissolve them. Otherwise, it is the greatest.
    Bob Morrison
    1987 E-34 Hull #15
    "Terra Nova"

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