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Oil consumption and running a diesel hard enough

bgary

Advanced Beginner
Blogs Author
@Bruce Where did you order the part from? I went off an online store.

From RMT Equipment (used to be Sound Tractor) in Everett. Kubota dealer with a parts department.

NOTE: they just called me back to tell me that the -73010 thermostat was discontinued by Kubota, and they're trying to figure out what the replacement is. They're supposed to call me when they have the answer.


In the interim, I went to the interwebs, searched for "Kubota 73010 discontinued" and rapidly found that the current part number is 15321-73016. That "appears" to be a 180F thermostat, where the old one was apparently a 160F thermostat.

I may order a -73010 from one of the many online sources that claim to have one in stock, and the -73016 when RMT figures out that's the current model. Stay tuned...

Bruce

debonAir. thanks for the tip on the holes. I'll look at the one that comes out and make sure the new one has the same holes.
 

Geoff W.

Makes Up For It With Enthusiasm
Blogs Author
In the interim, I went to the interwebs, searched for "Kubota 73010 discontinued" and rapidly found that the current part number is 15321-73016. That "appears" to be a 180F thermostat, where the old one was apparently a 160F thermostat.

I may order a -73010 from one of the many online sources that claim to have one in stock, and the -73016 when RMT figures out that's the current model. Stay tuned...

I got a 73010 from an online store (Country Sales and Service), will report back when installed.
 

bgary

Advanced Beginner
Blogs Author
Update, RMT just called back and said the have the 15331-73014 thermostat in stock. I looked online and can't see that there is any difference between the -73014, -73015 and -73016 (all are listed by Kubota as replacements for the discontinued -73010)

It's not clear to me whether the -73014 part is a 160F or 180F... some digging on the web leads me to believe it is 180F, but there is some ambiguity.

https://www.aidtractor.com/pages/search?m=keyword&q=73014

I'll pick it up on Saturday and let you know what I learn.

Bruce
 

Geoff W.

Makes Up For It With Enthusiasm
Blogs Author
Well Bruce, if you get to it this weekend I highly recommend draining enough coolant from the manifold to get the overall level below the hose going from the manifold to the thermostat housing. Either it comes out manually via a pump, or out from the housing itself and goes all over the engine. Ask me how I know.

That said, my thermostat definitely looked effed up and part 73010 was identical to what was already in there. 15 minute job. Couldn't run it to temp tonight without annoying the neighborhood but we'll see tomorrow.

IMG_20190510_220641.jpg
 
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bgary

Advanced Beginner
Blogs Author
...ask me how I know

I’m laughing with you. No, really. I had the same thing happen when I replaced my fresh-water pump.

Turns out (I learned, after cleaning up the mess) there’s a petcock low on the starboard side of the block. Hold a container there (or run a piece of 5/16” tubing to a container), open the petcock, and the stuff drains out, easy peasy.

Pro-tip: remember to close the petcock before going to refill the coolant. Ask me how I know...

Bruce
 

Geoff W.

Makes Up For It With Enthusiasm
Blogs Author
Glad to know I'm not alone here.

As a follow up, I motored for an hour this morning at 2500 and my temp gauge hovered a sliver below 160. So it works! And 73010 is the 160F version.
 

bgary

Advanced Beginner
Blogs Author
temp gauge hovered a sliver below 160. So it works!

Awesome!

I'm picking up my -73014 from the Kubota dealer when they open at 8. I think it is a 180F, so there's a possibility I'll have to drill the two holes in the skirt that debonAir mentioned earlier in the thread.

Not sure if running at 180F is going to make me nervous, even knowing that it is better for the motor. We'll see.

Bruce
 

Geoff W.

Makes Up For It With Enthusiasm
Blogs Author
I did have to drill a hole, I should've mentioned. There was already one in mine but a larger one needed to go in
 
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markvone

Sustaining Member
The hole(s) are important on marine applications that have wet exhaust vs dry exhaust which is designed to run hotter. See Universal/Westerbeke Service Bulletin 107.

Mark
 

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eherlihy

Junior Member
I know this is an old thread, but I have been dealing with the thermostat on my circa 1986 M25 this week. I have had a 180ºF thermostat installed for the past ten years, with only a 1/16" hole. The M25 has a bypass hose and fittings that allow the cooling water to bypass the thermostat. Why would the additional 1/8" hole be necessary on this engine?:confused: Although I long ago removed this hose, and have plumbed the bypass circuit to provide heat to my hot water heater.

I have had to work on this today because I changed my heat exchanger last fall after the boat was laid up. When I started the engine this season, I neglected to "burp" the cooling system and the engine temperature rose to over 200ºF and it set off the alarm. Since then the engine has been running at 195ºF I believe that by allowing the engine to overheat, the thermostat - which had maintained 180ºF with no issue over ten years - was "cooked" and now opened at a higher temperature. I had an old 160ºF thermostat ferreted away, and have installed that today. Engine trials show that it is maintaining a steady engine temperature of 160º.

Note: if you look at the flange, or the copper cap you should see either an 82C or 72C or simply a 82 or 72 stamped to mark the thermostat's designed opening temperature.
 

Kevin A Wright

Member III
Thanks eherlihy, very timely and good to hear..
Well my Kubota 160F thermostat just arrived. It has a single 5/64" bypass hole already drilled in it. Going to give it a shot leaving it as is instead of drilling 2 1/8" holes as some have suggested.
I really can't wrap my mind around why a different bypass would be needed during warmup for a system with a raw water cooler vs a radiator.
If I open her up and see two large holes in the failing one I reserve the right to change my mind at the last minute.

My M25 has run at the high end of the range since I got it. At first would start to overheat if I motored too long (several hours) especially into the wind, or got into warmer waters. Seemed to have solved that about 3 years ago when I put in the larger heat exchanger. But this last weekend running from Port Townsend down to Kingston it started up again, creeping up to 200F after a 2 or three hours of motoring. Luckily I could just make it close hauled from Oak bay to Point No Point before taking the wind on the nose again. Hopefully this will take care of it. Don't know when or if the PO ever changed the thermostat so could have an original 1986 version in there.

Kevin Wright
E35 Hydro Therapy
 

Kenneth K

1985 32-3, Puget Sound
Blogs Author
Note on the symptoms mentioned: After three years the new heat exchanger may need cleaning.
Likewise for the fitting where cooling water is injected into the exhaust riser. The flash-boiling of the water in the hot exhaust pipe causes a rapid buildup of mineral deposits that can restrict the flow of water from the heat exchanger.
 

Kevin A Wright

Member III
Thanks Christian. Actually I had the heat exchanger apart last year due to the pencil zinc corroding off at the base and getting stuck in the opening. Clean as a whistle. Also I'm pretty sure the exhaust riser is OK as well since I've got ample flow coming out the exhaust with no signs of steaming. There could always be some buildup somewhere else in the system (every elbow is suspect in my book) but since I'm not sure how old the thermostat is in the first place seems like a good and simple place to start.

Kevin Wright
E35 Hydro Therapy
 

Kevin A Wright

Member III
Well I'm becoming more convinced that I have the original 1986 thermostat in my M25. I tried to remove the housing and both bolt heads just sheared right off. I'm hoping that if I soak it in Kroil and drill out the bolts a bit I can tap it with a hammer to break the seal on the gasket and be able to remove the housing hopefully intact. Then try to get the studs out if I'm lucky.

Does anyone remember or have a picture of the bottom of the thermostat housing? I'm assuming the holes for the bolts go through a solid portion of the casting and are drilled with ample room for play of the bolts? Ie the bolts are not exposed to coolant? If the hold in the housing is real tight with the bolt shaft that could be an absolute bear to remove with 2 inches of bolt shaft corroded in place with 34 years of crap.

Kevin Wright
E35 Hydro Therapy
 

Kevin A Wright

Member III
Yep and those two bolt heads on top are what sheared off. What I'm wondering is what the inside of that housing looks like. I'm betting that the holes the bolts go through are not continuous with the interior of the housing (exposed to coolant and requiring a seal against the top of the housing) so I can drill them out. Since if I mess up the housing it looks like a $250 part. But since I don't see any other way of proceeding at this point, I might as well drill away and pray.

Kevin Wright
E35 Hydro Therapy
 
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