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Thread: Replacing Chainplates on a Ericson 41

  1. #1

    Replacing Chainplates on a Ericson 41

    I have been looking at Ericson 41s for a over a year and getting close to pulling the trigger on one. One of my concerns is replacing the chainplates which are fiberglassed into the hull. Has anyone done that job before? I have searched YouTube and the internet but nothing for the Ericson 41. Trying to get an idea on how bad a project that is.

  2. #2
    Senior Moderator Loren Beach's Avatar
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    Question

    I would suggest changing to Titanium, and then going with external plates and use the original SS inserts as backing plates.

    Long shot and just a guess, but did you once race a J-24 on the Columbia River?
    1988 Olson 34 #8
    Sail # 28400
    Betamarine 25 (new 2018)
    Fresh Air
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  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Loren Beach View Post
    I would suggest changing to Titanium, and then going with external plates and use the original SS inserts as backing plates.

    Long shot and just a guess, but did you once race a J-24 on the Columbia River?
    Thats a name I remember from the past, yes I used to race J24s on the Columbia. How is Loren?

  4. #4
    Senior Moderator Loren Beach's Avatar
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    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Brockman View Post
    Thats a name I remember from the past, yes I used to race J24s on the Columbia. How is Loren?
    Speaking in the third person, he is doing OK -- sailing nowadays for fun. No real racing for over 20 years.

    Matter of fact he is in a daily walking group that includes several past commodores from SYSCO... Ah, the 'good old days!'
    1988 Olson 34 #8
    Sail # 28400
    Betamarine 25 (new 2018)
    Fresh Air
    Portland, OR USA

  5. #5
    kapnkd kapnkd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Brockman View Post
    I have been looking at Ericson 41s for a over a year and getting close to pulling the trigger on one. One of my concerns is replacing the chainplates which are fiberglassed into the hull. Has anyone done that job before? I have searched YouTube and the internet but nothing for the Ericson 41. Trying to get an idea on how bad a project that is.
    Strange they would have been glassed in (??). Canít imagine plates being glassed in place and then drilled for bolts. Does it look perhaps like that may have been added by a previous owner?
    Most of us are not too familiar with the 41.

    Some photos to see would be great - if nothing more to speculate on how difficult a project youíre looking at.

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    Principal Partner Afrakes's Avatar
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    Not uncommon

    Quote Originally Posted by kapnkd View Post
    Strange they would have been glassed in (??). Canít imagine plates being glassed in place and then drilled for bolts. Does it look perhaps like that may have been added by a previous owner?
    Most of us are not too familiar with the 41.

    Some photos to see would be great - if nothing more to speculate on how difficult a project youíre looking at.
    Kapnkd: There were a number of Ericson models with the chain plates glassed to the hull. My 73' 27 for one.
    Al Frakes
    1987 E-28 Reba Gee
    Hull #663
    Port Kent, NY

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    Sustaining Partner gadangit's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kapnkd View Post
    Strange they would have been glassed in (??). Canít imagine plates being glassed in place and then drilled for bolts. Does it look perhaps like that may have been added by a previous owner?
    Most of us are not too familiar with the 41.

    Some photos to see would be great - if nothing more to speculate on how difficult a project youíre looking at.
    This pic is from an E39. The upper shroud is on the right, the lower aft is on the left. I'm not convinced that going with external plates is the answer, that would be pretty far outboard. Depending on what the problem is, I would sister on a new chainplate and come up through deck in the same location.

    I did use an external plate on the backstay chainplate and drilled through the existing glassed in plate. That worked great.

    One note on titanium: I have a titanium deck fitting for our staysail and it is really doing a number on the stainless clevis pin. Titanium plates should use titanium clevis pins.

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    Chris and Lisa
    1972 Hull #53 Ericson 39 "SolAire"
    San Leon, TX

  8. #8
    kapnkd kapnkd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadangit View Post
    This pic is from an E39. The upper shroud is on the right, the lower aft is on the left. I'm not convinced that going with external plates is the answer, that would be pretty far outboard. Depending on what the problem is, I would sister on a new chainplate and come up through deck in the same location.

    I did use an external plate on the backstay chainplate and drilled through the existing glassed in plate. That worked great.

    One note on titanium: I have a titanium deck fitting for our staysail and it is really doing a number on the stainless clevis pin. Titanium plates should use titanium clevis pins.

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    Thanks for the info and photo Al & Chris. Sadly, those would be hard to remove short of a lot of CAREFUL grinding and a LOT of patience! In replacing ours, we went again with SS but had them made by Garhauer as they were water-jet cut which keeps the high heat from weakening the metal. (I got 45 years out of the old ones - so figure the SS will outlast me this go-round.)
    Last edited by kapnkd; 04-12-2019 at 09:11 AM.

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    Sustaining Partner gadangit's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kapnkd View Post
    Thanks for the info and photo Al & Chris. Sadly, those would be hard to remove short of a lot of CAREFUL grinding and a LOT of patience!
    Oh man, no kidding! Abandoning in place is for sure the correct thing to do. It took a lot of time, patience and cutting oil to drill through our backstay chainplate. That was SS and not Al, but still it was easier than getting under there and grinding way. I've got lots of time grinding down below and it is never pleasant.
    Chris and Lisa
    1972 Hull #53 Ericson 39 "SolAire"
    San Leon, TX

  10. #10
    kapnkd kapnkd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadangit View Post
    Oh man, no kidding! Abandoning in place is for sure the correct thing to do. It took a lot of time, patience and cutting oil to drill through our backstay chainplate. That was SS and not Al, but still it was easier than getting under there and grinding way. I've got lots of time grinding down below and it is never pleasant.
    We've wondered about our backstay plate but there seem to be no signs of metal fatigue, corrosion or rust anywhere around the exposed top area. The glassed in area also shows no signs of bubbling away from a corrosion point either, so we're letting a sleeping dog lie for the time being and keep a careful eye on it.

    The bow plate seems to be fine so far. At least it's out in the open for easy inspection although the nuts for the bolts are hard to see how they are holding up.

    Given what you've done, you've certainly earned your spot in heaven just for patience and perseverance alone!
    For me, crawling up into the forepeak, simply grinding out the old coring then replacing and glassing in new deck coring certainly "Made a Christian" out of me as well! (And THAT was a much larger/accessible area than the stern locker.)
    -kerry

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by gadangit View Post
    This pic is from an E39. The upper shroud is on the right, the lower aft is on the left. I'm not convinced that going with external plates is the answer, that would be pretty far outboard. Depending on what the problem is, I would sister on a new chainplate and come up through deck in the same location.

    I did use an external plate on the backstay chainplate and drilled through the existing glassed in plate. That worked great.

    One note on titanium: I have a titanium deck fitting for our staysail and it is really doing a number on the stainless clevis pin. Titanium plates should use titanium clevis pins.

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    Thanks for the info, I really would prefer not adding external plates. The galvanic issues between the stainless and titanium is interesting I would probably go back with stainless steel. Where there any bolts also embedded in the fiberglass to hold the chain plates or where the old chain plates just held in by the fiberglass? What where the condition of the old ones?

  12. #12
    Senior Moderator Loren Beach's Avatar
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    I just looked the interior photos of a sister ship down in SoCal. This EY model does not seem to have the large aluminum "knees" that were put on the 37 and 39. The shroud base looks to be out by the toe rail. Putting new external chain plates on should not be too difficult, and will have minimal effect on the sheeting angle of overlapping genoas.
    1988 Olson 34 #8
    Sail # 28400
    Betamarine 25 (new 2018)
    Fresh Air
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  13. #13
    Sustaining Partner gadangit's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Loren Beach View Post
    I just looked the interior photos of a sister ship down in SoCal. This EY model does not seem to have the large aluminum "knees" that were put on the 37 and 39. The shroud base looks to be out by the toe rail. Putting new external chain plates on should not be too difficult, and will have minimal effect on the sheeting angle of overlapping genoas.
    Interesting Loren. But still glassed in? Or was there a bulkhead to bolt to?
    Chris and Lisa
    1972 Hull #53 Ericson 39 "SolAire"
    San Leon, TX

  14. #14
    Sustaining Partner gadangit's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Brockman View Post
    Thanks for the info, I really would prefer not adding external plates. The galvanic issues between the stainless and titanium is interesting I would probably go back with stainless steel. Where there any bolts also embedded in the fiberglass to hold the chain plates or where the old chain plates just held in by the fiberglass? What where the condition of the old ones?
    I would at least explore the Ti solution, costs are coming down.
    That picture is the extent of my knowledge of how the aluminum chainplate is installed. But I would venture to guess that it is just glassed in. We had some hole elongation issues on the uppers, so I chopped them off below deck and bolted on a SS plate to replace. Pretty straightforward and would do it again.

    Sounds like you you might have something completely different. Do you have any pictures??
    Chris and Lisa
    1972 Hull #53 Ericson 39 "SolAire"
    San Leon, TX

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