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Thoughts on lifting masts?

garryh

Member III
I have always had a problem with the way masts are lifted into place. Standard procedure is to loop a strop under the spreader basess and lift away with a trailing guy rope on the bottom for control (and to hold the bottom to the bottom if the centre of gravity is too high). I have always wondered if the spreader bases and holes in the (soft) aluminum mast walls are actually designed to take this kind of sheer loading..?
And- if the strop is not placed just so, or the mast twists while being lifted, all the weight may be loaded onto a spreader(s) which would destroy it immediately. This has arisen in my mind particularly now since the mast on the 35-2 is such a serious chunk of metal and an incredible weight.
In the past, I have tried looping a long 1" line tied off at the base on either side of the mast with the top of the loop just above the spreaders and have inserted the strop under this loop... much to the consternation of the yard guys who just want it done as quickly as possible... with the standard reasoning that "this is the way we have always done it"!
The loop procedure worked fine in stepping the mast, albeit with a bit of fiddling, but the only way to do this for unstepping would be to go op in a bosun's chair to carry up the loop and thread the strop through it.
Any thoughts on the proper way to lift a mast..?
 

tenders

Innocent Bystander
The mast, even with the standing and running rigging attached, is not all that heavy. Maybe 350 pounds for an E35? I know that three people can easily shoulder an E32 mast fully rigged. The spreader bases and throughbolts are more than capable of holding the lifting line - but yes, if that line is in the wrong place the spreaders themselves are not designed to take that much torque.

I worry more about the damage the mast step can do as it's inside the cabin, between the mast step and the deck partners, on the way in or out. There is a LOT of leverage on that section if the external part misbehaves due to high winds, shifting weight on deck, wakes from passing boat traffic, etc. Haven't had to worry about this myself as the E32's mast is deck-stepped (and I thought 35s were too, but maybe not).
 

garryh

Member III
yes, deck stepped.
I am simply astounded by the weight of the 35-2 mast. On my previous P30, two people could carry the mast. With the 35-2 mast, three very strong people are struggling. The rigging specs call for zero bend and there is a good reason for this..! If you tried to put a bend in such a beefy sectioned mast, you would punch the mast through the cabin top first. Good point about the mast step... a lot of leverage involved, something to watch carefully.
 

garryh

Member III
misread your point about the deck step but even when deck mounted, if the mast is inserted onto the base and then moves around for whatever reason, it could damage the integrity of the attachment of the base to the deck and the glassed in plywood support.
 

CTOlsen

Member III
Standard procedure is NOT to use the spreaders

I haul every winter and have the mast lowered for the winter (required by my yard). The weight of the mast is never taken up by the spreaders nor the spreader attachment. The loop should either be as close as possible to the center of gravity, and if needed, can be above the lower spreader. Yes, a bosun's chair may be needed, but given the choice of bosuns chair or using the spreaders to carry the weight, chose bosuns chair.
As you mentioned, a line from the loop down to a fixture on the mast will take the weight. The loop will be the lifting point, so should be as close to the center of gravity as possible.
 

garryh

Member III
I lower mine down every fall and raise every Spring as well, much to the consternation of the yard who would like less work than more. But I cannot be convinced that leaving a mast up all winter on the hard on stands or cradle is anything but a very bad idea.
I have never heard of anyone lifting with the line idea... thanks for the reinforcement ; )
Yes the top of the loop would need to be above the lower spreader for the CG and to control the mast... again, yard guys will not like it at all ; )
 

toddster

Curator of Broken Parts
Blogs Author
My spreader bases are welded on - seem very sturdy. Last fall however, we looped the strap under the lower shrouds, out of concern for the spreader-light wires.

I’ve been moving it around the yard by lashing the bottom onto an appliance dolly and heaving the top onto my shoulder. And a can of spinach...

In my experiences so far, if the hauling is done at a boatyard, the yard guys make all the decisions and want the owner to stay far away and keep quiet. If you hire a crane, you get much more involved in the process and actually have to think about some of these things.
 
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garryh

Member III
yes, the yard guys just want it done asap and do not care about potential damage or best practices. I think you have to have to have the cojones to request certain procedures if you are paying for it. They just fall back on "this is the way we've always done it". My response is often "well ok so you've always done it wrong"
 

tenders

Innocent Bystander
even when deck mounted, if the mast is inserted onto the base and then moves around for whatever reason, it could damage the integrity of the attachment of the base to the deck and the glassed in plywood support.

Once the mast is vertical enough to fit on the mast step, something is very wrong and very strange if there's much twisting force applied to it. Once two opposing shrouds or stays are made fast to the turnbuckles, the mast doesn't twist any more at all, and easily pivots fore-and-aft or port-and-starboard a few degrees (not to be confused with mast bend, which I agree our masts do not do!) as the standing rigging is fastened.

I use a bridle that is tied snugly with a bowline around the bottom spreader bases (substantial through-bolted cast aluminum), with the other end tied somewhat more loosely with a bowline around the mast above the lower spreader so the bridle loop, when pulled tight, is about 2/3 of the way between the lower and upper spreaders. This is pretty close, but slightly above, the balancing point of the mast so the base isn't too beastly to guide into place but the mast will move to a vertical position as the hoist lifts it. The only drama in the raising/lowering process is making sure the foil and drum for the roller furler are well-treated during the evolution. Those things are awkward and legitimately fragile.
 

markvone

Sustaining Member
I haul every winter and have the mast lowered for the winter (required by my yard). The weight of the mast is never taken up by the spreaders nor the spreader attachment. The loop should either be as close as possible to the center of gravity, and if needed, can be above the lower spreader. Yes, a bosun's chair may be needed, but given the choice of bosuns chair or using the spreaders to carry the weight, chose bosuns chair.
As you mentioned, a line from the loop down to a fixture on the mast will take the weight. The loop will be the lifting point, so should be as close to the center of gravity as possible.

Bert Jabin's in Annapolis is a big, top notch yard that services a lot of expensive yachts and race boats. Here is my mast on their crane. If you zoom in you will see the load line from the lifting loop down to a fitting on the mast, not to the spreaders. The yard guy climbed up the mast to attach the lifting loop, rig the load line and attach the crane hook. Can't remember if he free climbed the mast or more likely had a line/rig hanging from the crane hook to get up.

Mark
 

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garryh

Member III
that is precisely how I envision the proper way to lift a mast by a competent yard. I have been talking to the owner of a local spar manufacturer (Toronto) and he made a few good points. He cited the danger element of going up the mast to rig the line and attach the hook when unstepping, and if done properly with a bosun's chair etc it might add to the cost of the process in many yards. When I tried the loop method at my yard, it was met with resistance vs lifting with the spreader bases because "they've done hundreds that way". And it is just quicker.
The spar guy suggested the loop be just below the first spreaders for ease of rigging and to add weights near the bottom of the mast to lower the CG. Not sure how practical that is, have not thought it through.
He also mentioned that they have installed dedicated lifting tangs on some masts just above the CG which makes a lot of sense.
 

kapnkd

kapnkd
that is precisely how I envision the proper way to lift a mast by a competent yard. I have been talking to the owner of a local spar manufacturer (Toronto) and he made a few good points. He cited the danger element of going up the mast to rig the line and attach the hook when unstepping, and if done properly with a bosun's chair etc it might add to the cost of the process in many yards. When I tried the loop method at my yard, it was met with resistance vs lifting with the spreader bases because "they've done hundreds that way". And it is just quicker.
The spar guy suggested the loop be just below the first spreaders for ease of rigging and to add weights near the bottom of the mast to lower the CG. Not sure how practical that is, have not thought it through.
He also mentioned that they have installed dedicated lifting tangs on some masts just above the CG which makes a lot of sense.
.

At our club here here in MI. members seasonally raise and lower our own masts using a gin pole (sort of a small crane on a swivel base). We help each other out so there are usually plenty of helping hands available. Everyone knows the center of gravity on their mast and lifting lines are placed slightly off to make the mast slightly bottom heavy so as the mast goes perpendicular as lifted - it’s easier that way to align to the mast step.

On our 32 (very similar to the 35) the lift point is above the lower spreaders like your photo shows. In removing the mast we heave a line (monkey fist weighted) over the port spreader from bow towards stern. We then throw the line from stern to bow over the starboard spreader which captures the mast in the process. The gin pole line is then secured to the two lines now going around the back side of the mast and then brought up to slightly above the mast balancing point. The two lines are then secured around mast mounted halyard winches and tied to cleats. The gin pole person puts tension on that line and shrouds/forestay & backstay are removed from chain plates. Mast is lifted off and lowered to a mast cart and wheeled to a storage rack. Same process is done in reverse for raising mast in spring. Best part is once rigging is secured, the two lines secured around the mast can be removed WITHOUT having to go up in a boson chair! (Of course those who have a balance point below their spreaders don’t have this issue.

Just a few more weeks and I can get photos as launch time is just around the corner!
 
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bgary

Advanced Beginner
Blogs Author
The spar guy suggested the loop be just below the first spreaders for ease of rigging and to add weights near the bottom of the mast to lower the CG. Not sure how practical that is, have not thought it through. He also mentioned that they have installed dedicated lifting tangs on some masts just above the CG which makes a lot of sense.


Yeah... no.

If the yard wants to have the loop lower so it is easier for them
...or wants to use your spreaders to keep the loop in place
...or wants to add weights to make it work
...or wants to add a lifting eye

...it's time to find a different yard.

This is not rocket surgery. If they have a lifting loop slightly above the midpoint of the total section, that should easily be above the CG. Every competent yard knows how to secure the lifting loop there. Doing it differently creates risks which are not necessary.

IMG_1828s.jpg

Here's my rig (32-III) about to go back in the boat. Loop is above the lower spreaders, secured in place with a line tied to a fitting just above deck-level. To remove the line, I hoisted a guy in a bos'n's chair - AFTER - the shrouds and stays were all attached and rough-tensioned - to a point where he could release the crane hook and remove the loop. Pulling the rig is generally the same in reverse - pull a guy up the rig so he can position the loop, have it secured in place, then - AFTER they've taken up some load - release the shrouds/stays and guide the thing up and out.

Easy-peasy, and good yards do it this way every day.

$.02
Bruce
 
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