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E35-2 Forward Cabin Hatch Question

Glenn McCarthy

Glenn McCarthy
Has anyone cut a larger hatch opening in the forward cabin hatch? I like the idea of having an escape hatch, that one is way too small to get anyone out. Are there structural issues to consider? Would the area need to be beefed up after cutting a larger opening? Got pictures?

An added benefit would be that the little hatch does a pathetic job at letting breeze blow through the inside of the boat.
 

Kevin A Wright

Member III
I've got a 35-III and the hatches are plenty big for me to get in and out of and I'm a big guy. Actually last summer I had all the kids and grandkids on board when the head went out. We were in port that night so when the old geezer had to get up in the middle of the night and use the shore facilities, it was actually easier to just pop out of the hatch and head up the dock than try to make my way through 5 bodies sleeping in the main cabin and get out the companionway without waking anyone.

I wouldn't think it would be a problem installing larger ones on your Mk2.

Good Luck

Kevin Wright
E35 Hydro Therapy
 

Glenn McCarthy

Glenn McCarthy
The opening is 17" X 13-1/2" or 20-1/2" on the diagonal. Much narrower than my shoulders on my 6' 2" 230# body. And it does a terrible job of getting air into the boat. I'd love to cut the whole bigger and put in a hatch I could get through. Anyone do anything like this?
 

garryh

Member III
I have not done this but it is definitely on my list. The hatch is far too small for egress and I would like more light in the V berth.
And while I love the lines and appearance of the 35-2, I find the boxy homemade hatches looking boxy and homemade. I plan to replace both with more modern hatches.
But enlarging the opening of the forward hatch beyond the current f/g mouldings will be a significant task both on the cabin top and V berth ceiling to get it it looking right. I think it can be judiciously enlarged maybe 1-2" in both dimensions without it being a HUGE undertaking.
 

Glenn McCarthy

Glenn McCarthy
I just measured my shoulders (not easy to do!). Just a bit over 24". How about a circle hatch? I too want to put modern aluminum frame hatches.
 

garryh

Member III
I think a circular hatch would be an expensive non-standard purchase AND you would be losing a lot of surface area vs a rectangular hatch.
These are downloaded pics of replaced hatches on a 35-2 (resolution is the best I cd do)... the new ones look great vs the old boxy ones.
Looking closely, it would appear the new V berth hatch uses the same housing as the original, just likely cut away the shoulders to the extent possible leaving enough surface area35-2 Original hatches.jpg to mount the new hatch.35-2 new hatches.jpg

(I have no idea how to 'attach' vs 'insert inline' : |
 

garryh

Member III
there would also be more 'wiggle room' with a rectangular hatch on the diagonal vs the max circular hatch you could install
 

kapnkd

kapnkd
The opening is 17" X 13-1/2" or 20-1/2" on the diagonal. Much narrower than my shoulders on my 6' 2" 230# body. And it does a terrible job of getting air into the boat. I'd love to cut the whole bigger and put in a hatch I could get through. Anyone do anything like this?

I am not an engineer but did work closely with them in the auto industry creating “Imagineering” concepts and ideas for them.

You probably can increase the hatch area - but not a whole lot. It would not be wise to extend the opening into the radius of the cabin trunk sides curving to the cabin top deck. Most certainly you will want/need to reinforce the new opening with a sturdy lip and glass it in for strength and (of course) reduce the potential for water leaks. (ESPECIALLY in an area where one sleeps. Rain leaks have but one mission which is to wake/bomb you in the middle of the night!)
 

garryh

Member III
totally agree Kerry... trying to enlarge the opening beyond the existing f/g moulding would be a huge job and involve some structural engineering and basically be way more trouble than it is worth.
The existing housing has a raised hump at the inner edges over which the box hatch seats. If you cut the hump away, you would gain a fair bit of visible surface area. I would then cut away as much as possible of the remaining flat area leaving maybe an inch or so mounting area for the new hatch flange. This assumes of course you can find one to fit closely enough (might be a custom order). If the remaining 'inch' of flange is not solidly fortified, I will glass in some hardwood underneath the perimeter, then fill and fair to ensure the whole surface is perfectly flat to avoid possible twist and leaking with the new hatch.
 

kapnkd

kapnkd
totally agree Kerry... trying to enlarge the opening beyond the existing f/g moulding would be a huge job and involve some structural engineering and basically be way more trouble than it is worth.
The existing housing has a raised hump at the inner edges over which the box hatch seats. If you cut the hump away, you would gain a fair bit of visible surface area. I would then cut away as much as possible of the remaining flat area leaving maybe an inch or so mounting area for the new hatch flange. This assumes of course you can find one to fit closely enough (might be a custom order). If the remaining 'inch' of flange is not solidly fortified, I will glass in some hardwood underneath the perimeter, then fill and fair to ensure the whole surface is perfectly flat to avoid possible twist and leaking with the new hatch.

Sounds like a plan... Good point to see what standard size hatches are out there to "cover" your needs. Not sure of the differences in cabin trunk width between the 35-2 and 35-3 but worth a look.

My '73 32 and I think other 35's of the same year had a fiberglass hatch which was to the outside of the actual opening lip. The latter boats with the Teak hatches looked to be a bit more narrow by design (???).
 

toddster

Curator of Broken Parts
Blogs Author
A case study:
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/entry.php?651-How-not-to-retrofit-a-hatch-Prelude
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/entry.php?653-How-not-to-retrofit-a-hatch-Destruction
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/entry.php?654-How-not-to-retrofit-a-hatch-Installation

Although I could get out through the old hatch (first one shoulder, hitch, then the other..) But the little hatches that Ericson supplied to get into the forepeak and the aft lazarette in the E29 are another story. Almost got myself stuck trying.
 

Glenn McCarthy

Glenn McCarthy
Good stuff Toddster. I have yet to figure out the "liner" ceiling in the boat, all other boats I worked on the ceiling was a solid piece part of the deck. I am rebuilding the windows currently and getting close to putting epoxy with filler in between the deck glass and the liner glass to create a solid surface to remount the windows into. Otherwise the outer and inner flanges of the windows are mounted to a very flexible surface clearly leading to future leaks.

A case study:
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/entry.php?651-How-not-to-retrofit-a-hatch-Prelude
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/entry.php?653-How-not-to-retrofit-a-hatch-Destruction
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/entry.php?654-How-not-to-retrofit-a-hatch-Installation

Although I could get out through the old hatch (first one shoulder, hitch, then the other..) But the little hatches that Ericson supplied to get into the forepeak and the aft lazarette in the E29 are another story. Almost got myself stuck trying.
 
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