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Oil in the bilge

We seem to have an ongoing battle with oil in the bildge. The PO spilled during an oil change and we continue to be cleaning the one bildge on our 30+. There are no leaks in the engine, filters are tight, but we clean one week and the next weekend more seems to flow in. Thoughts? I’m not sure the layout of the bildge under the sole. We are thinking of redoing the sole and that would give us a view underneath, but it will be a few months before we likely get to it. Thoughts? Tips?

Thanks,
Shannon

current project: refinishing the companionway ladder
 
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bigd14

Contributing Partner
Blogs Author
I had the same problem. There are so many inaccessible spaces under the grid that are still inaccessible when the sole is removed that unless the sole is damaged it’s probaby not worth it. I posted a pic of the sole removed awhile back http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?14448-E30-TAFG-Structure.

I filled the bilge with degreaser and water and then pumped it out for disposal (make sure bilge pump switch is off or you’ll cause an oils slick and get fined). After a couple rounds of this and getting everywhere I could with rags it is much improved. I also try to keep the bilge dry so I don’t end up pumping oily water overboard. So far so good.
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Yep. Any oil in the bilge takes many pump-outs to remove. Lots of detergent and, as Big says, one eye out for the USCG.

A TAFG adds to the nooks and crannies and requires draining and flushing of each compartment.

(There should really be no issue with pumping out detergent foam, since any deck wash or outboard flush with Saltaway does that. Ignore private guilt and moral turpitude.)
 
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We did this once, but will persevere

Thanks for this. We are back out again today and will persevere. It’s good to see the pics. I am working on the companionway ladder right now and would like to wait a bit before attempting the sole.
 

Kenneth K

1985 32-3, Puget Sound
Blogs Author
It took me about six months to totally get rid of all the diesel oil after spilling it during a fuel filter change.

Cut up small pieces of absorbent pad and leave them in the bilge compartments. The pads will float on top of water but still soak up the oil.
 
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toddster

Curator of Broken Parts
Blogs Author
It can be a mystery. I am still finding the occasional bit of nastiness in the bilge, more than a year after opening up and cleaning out the engine sump. I put a clean diaper under the engine, and it’s still clean, so I know it’s not new drips. When I was having exhaust problems (before replacing the whole system) there could be soot that would look like oil on the water.

Re: oil slicks. I can’t help noticing that when the cruise ships or the Coast Guard are in the marina, running their big generators all day, a visible sheen covers the entire basin. :mad: Makes the rest of us look a bit silly, worrying about a teaspoon here and there.
 

RCsailfast

E35-3 Illinois
I feel for you. Had a small but persistent diesel leak from the high pressure fuel pump. The diesel would find its way into the bilge in mysterious ways. Had to use a wet vac and dispose of the crap several times a week.

I found placing oil absorbing pads under the engine and wrapping a towel around the tube at the front of the engine pan almost contained everything. The tube wasnt sealed at the bottom and allowed engine fluids to enter the grid and bilge. Containing the fuel under the engine made clean up allot easier.

On my ever growing project list, is to seal around that tube once Mother Nature decides to agree with Punxsutawny Phil and end this persistent winter. Calling for sub zero temperatures again tonight.
 

supersailor

Contributing Partner
I always put a couple of "diapers" (oil absorbing towels) in the engine pan and check them when I check the oil. Not only do they absorb the drippings but it's easy to find the location of the drip. If there is oil in the bilge and no drips in the pan, I would look at the fuel tank (diesel is an oil) and supply line for leaks.

The PO hadn't done this and the bilge was a mess when I bought the boat. I took a lot of cleaning to realize that there were no leaks anywhere and the pro's (the PO didn't touch engines) probably changed the oil about how it has been done in my cars, fast and messy. Don't park in the driveway after a change.

I also leave a few "diapers" in the bilge just in case. They don't absorb water, only oil.
 
Thanks and update

Thanks again for the advice. The last flush seemed to have worked. I’ve been battling the bolder since December and i think I’ve won! The fluid was clear today.

Shannon
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Good. Please put your boat model year and engine in the signature line so we don;t have to look it up.

Itʻs easy: Settings/My Setting/Edit Signature
 

Kenneth K

1985 32-3, Puget Sound
Blogs Author
Thanks again for the advice. The last flush seemed to have worked.

The fuel floats on the water, so it coats the bilge /TAFG to the highest level the water has been to. If you've been flushing at a level below that, you might see some additional oil if your bilge subsequently gets flooded to a higher water level.

Just keep repeating the process.
 
Repeating the process

The fuel floats on the water, so it coats the bilge /TAFG to the highest level the water has been to. If you've been flushing at a level below that, you might see some additional oil if your bilge subsequently gets flooded to a higher water level.

Just keep repeating the process.

Repeat, repeat, repeat. Just when I thought it was clear.

the weird thing is when it’s filled it seems clear and then I empty it and drops of oil seeps in. I’m an optimist by nature. I will persevere
 

Second Star

Member III
I have suffered the same problem with my M-18. I found that the oil dipstick tube was not fully tightened to the oil pan and that the aftermarket "oil change tube" that replaced the pan plug was slightly loose as well. A very difficult item to get a wrench onto to tighten! Finally, it is almost impossible to remove the sideways mounted oil filter without dripping some oil into nooks and crannies in the engine castings that will eventually run down to the bilge when warmed up and subject to rolling etc when underway. Does anyone have a good method of removing the oil filter?
 

toddster

Curator of Broken Parts
Blogs Author
It is possible to purchase an aftermarket “remote oil filter kit” that relocates the filter to a more convenient place. They are not very expensive.

In fact, that is the only way to add oil filtration to an Atomic 4 (which doesn’t have a native filter.)
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
I have suffered the same problem with my M-18. I found that the oil dipstick tube was not fully tightened to the oil pan and that the aftermarket "oil change tube" that replaced the pan plug was slightly loose as well. A very difficult item to get a wrench onto to tighten! Finally, it is almost impossible to remove the sideways mounted oil filter without dripping some oil into nooks and crannies in the engine castings that will eventually run down to the bilge when warmed up and subject to rolling etc when underway. Does anyone have a good method of removing the oil filter?

Once I initially loosen it with a strap wrench, I place several paper towels under it and then fit a plastic bag over it and quickly spin it off and encase it in the bag.
Still some spillage, but limited.

On my old Universal, the banjo fitting that fed the pump-out hose into the pan did have to have new gaskets installed. Banjo fitting details:
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?6036-Oil-Change-Process&referrerid=28

Another filter thread with a remote filter explained:
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?9495-Oil-changing&referrerid=28

Have fun!
 
Location?

It is possible to purchase an aftermarket “remote oil filter kit” that relocates the filter to a more convenient place. They are not very expensive.

In fact, that is the only way to add oil filtration to an Atomic 4 (which doesn’t have a native filter.)

Where have you placed it?
 

toddster

Curator of Broken Parts
Blogs Author
Where have you placed it?

Hah! In my “projects to be completed” bin, of course! But ultimately on the engine compartment bulkhead. My OCD would like to have the fuel, oil, and water strainers all neatly lined up on the starboard side, but I’m not sure it will fit that way, once all the plumbing is added.

Indigo Electronics (Tom Stevens) sells a kit with fittings for the Atomic 4. It doesn’t capture the entire oil flow, but it is thought (hoped) to extend oil life in situations where extended motoring is required. He also sells a heat exchanger that can be installed with it, that is supposed to alleviate oil pressure problems caused by improper oil temperature. This is explained in detail on his web site. www.atomic4.com I think that I’ve observed the symptoms he describes, when I’ve had to motor all the way up the river.

If you have a regular spin-on filter, Google should provide plenty of links to kits that will replace it.
 

markvone

Sustaining Member
The diesel would find its way into the bilge in mysterious ways.

I found placing oil absorbing pads under the engine and wrapping a towel around the tube at the front of the engine pan almost contained everything. The tube wasnt sealed at the bottom and allowed engine fluids to enter the grid and bilge. Containing the fuel under the engine made clean up allot easier.

On my ever growing project list, is to seal around that tube once Mother Nature decides to agree with Punxsutawny Phil and end this persistent winter. Calling for sub zero temperatures again tonight.

My oil drain tube on the bottom of my oil pan got loose and I had dirty, black engine oil in the bilge. At least the black oil was a giveaway that it was from the crankcase and made me check the drain tube. The tube that diverts the aft bilge water through the engine pan (and seals in oil drips, etc) has a leak into the bilge. Has to be the forward (lower) end. So that is on my list. I placed oil absorb cloth under the engine and small pieces stuffed into my main bilge limber holes. The little piece collected the oil when it washed in from unknown recesses of the TAFG. After a few months it cleaned up.

Mark
 
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