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New owner - thermostat question M18 universal

We have recently purchased a new to us Ericson 30+. The mechanical inspection showed the thermostat didn’t appear to be opening. When we pulled out the thermostat housing it was full of a gelatinous white material. The thermostat definitely wasn’t opening. We are a bit fearful that the heat exchanger may have build up as well. Has anyone experienced this? If so, any advice on checking the heat exchanger or any other areas we should be concerned about?

Thanks in advance
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
We have recently purchased a new to us Ericson 30+. The mechanical inspection showed the thermostat didn’t appear to be opening. When we pulled out the thermostat housing it was full of a gelatinous white material. The thermostat definitely wasn’t opening. We are a bit fearful that the heat exchanger may have build up as well. Has anyone experienced this? If so, any advice on checking the heat exchanger or any other areas we should be concerned about?

Thanks in advance

Perhaps the coolant has not been changed out in a very long time.
Might be best to drain and refill with a 50/50 mixture. Others here with your model of engine will have suggestions for how to best do this. (Universal diesel two cylinder?)
 
Perhaps the coolant has not been changed out in a very long time.
Might be best to drain and refill with a 50/50 mixture. Others here with your model of engine will have suggestions for how to best do this. (Universal diesel two cylinder?)

Thanks Loren. Yes, diesel 2 cylinder. After doing a bit of online reading we are thinking the previous owner may have mixed the coolant or it hasn’t been changed in a long time. We are in the process of changing the coolant and replacing the thermostat. If anyone with this engine have suggestions- please share. Lots to learn here
 

Frank Langer

1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
If you have gelatinous white material in the thermostat housing, I think there is a good possibility that it will also have gummed up the heat exchanger and perhaps other parts of the cooling system. At the very least I would do a thorough flush of the cooling system and add new coolant and thermostat.

But if it were my boat, I would drain the coolant completely, remove the heat exchanger and take it to an auto radiator shop for cleaning/servicing (about $80 - 100, usually one day turn around), check all the cooling system hoses and clamps for softness, cracks, rust on the clamps, add new coolant (diesel coolant, not just regular automotive), replace the thermostat, and then bleed out any air bubbles to avoid engine overheating. This is normal maintenance that should be done every few years anyway, so it will be one job done, and minimize the likelihood of your engine overheating which can be a very expensive fix.

Removing the heat exchanger is not complicated once the coolant has been drained, but it can be awkward to reach all the cooling hoses and they can be stubborn to remove from the heat exchanger. There is a tool one can buy that helps this, but most of us just use a screw driver to gently pry the hoses off.

Frank
 
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I you have gelatinous white material in the thermostat housing, I think there is a good possibility that it will also have gummed up the heat exchanger and perhaps other parts of the cooling system. At the very least I would do a thorough flush of the cooling system and add new coolant and thermostat.

But if it were my boat, I would drain the coolant completely, remove the heat exchanger and take it to an auto radiator shop for cleaning/servicing (about $80 - 100, usually one day turn around), check all the cooling system hoses and clamps for softness, cracks, rust on the clamps, add new coolant (diesel coolant, not just regular automotive), replace the thermostat, and then bleed out any air bubbles to avoid engine overheating. This is normal maintenance that should be done every few years anyway, so it will be one job done, and minimize the likelihood of your engine overheating which can be a very expensive fix.

Removing the heat exchanger is not complicated once the coolant has been drained, but it can be awkward to reach all the cooling hoses and they can be stubborn to remove from the heat exchanger. There is a tool one can buy that helps this, but most of us just use a screw driver to gently pry the hoses off.

Frank

Thanks Frank. This is a good approach. So much to learn, but it’s part of the fun.
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
About a decade ago I replaced all of the coolant hoses. Some were a bit challenging to get at, for sure. Once I discovered some cracking in one of them I knew it was time to do them all.
 
Silly contortionist question.....what is the best way to access the HE? Reach over the front of the engine, or come in from behind through the cockpit locker?
 

Frank Langer

1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
Some owners have been able to do work over the top of the engine, but I have always had to get at things from inside the cockpit locker. Our E30+ has the 5416/M20 engine, whereas I think you said yours is the M18, so if they're different, you might be able to get at parts a bit differently. The locker is large enough to lay length wise in either direction, but keep the Advil or scotch handy!
Frank
 

bigd14

Contributing Partner
Blogs Author
I got frustrated standing on my head and cut out the quarterberth panel with a circular saw. I now have unfettered access to the engine, fuel tank, steering gear, etc. Its easy to screw in a strip of wood to hold the panel, and it fits back in nicely with no issues. Here is a picture of it cut out, sorry no photos of it back in.

This has been one of the best and easiest improvements I have made to this boat.

Quarterberth Panel Removed.jpg
 
This is something I think we will have to look at as we learn the boat a bit more. I can see how it would allow much better access than we currently have in the boat. Thanks!
 

Second Star

Member III
I did a clean and refill of my M18 cooling system last year.
I found it was best to remove hoses from the engine end first, undo the bracket with HE attached from the engine and pull out the hoses and HE from around the engine.
For whatever reason, my HE only opens at one end, the end opposite the sacrificial anode, which makes getting those little pieces of zinc out of it a tiring business. It was not difficult to clean the HE out using hydrochloric acid and a thin dowel down each tube. If you leave the HE in the acid bath overnight the bits of anode will likely dissolve, but when you rattle the HE you can hear if any are left. Given the contortionist work needed for above, I replaced all the FW (antifreeze) and SW hoses and clamps for about $30 and didn't have any air bubble problems in the FW or SW lines. But, I don't have a water heater which apparently can cause issues. New HE zinc was the most expensive part!
 
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