New Ericson 35-2 Owner, Thanks in Advance!

Hi Everyone,

I was so grateful to discover this forum after recently purchasing my first water craft ever, a 1970 Ericson 35-2. I'm a sailing enthusiast and good mechanic although very novice sailor, so I was especially thankful to see Christian Williams and the current owner of his former Thelonius here as well. So, here goes - hoping to get insights from those more experienced!

At first it was unclear whether the boat was a 35' or 32'. The engine is diesel, not the atomic 4, and is located aft, not in midships. It was for these reasons I suspected prior to purchase the boat was actually a 32'. She measures 34' 7" LOA, which coincides with what www.sailboatdata.com reports. Can anyone conclusively confirm or deny if there was ever an early model 35-2 that came with engine mounted aft of the companionway steps? Or could this be a retrofit? I'm baffled.

I'm trying to identify the diesel engine. Suggestions are a 2 cylinder Perkins, with a 'marinized' closed loop (freshwater) cooling system. Any info on the engine (if anyone can identify it by the photo) and information on fluid change type of fluid are should I be looking for would be very helpful.

I haven't gotten her to my local marina yet so I'm still unsure about a lot of things, for example, the hull has not been inspected, but my impression is with a molded keel, she should be a very tough boat. Has anyone experienced problems with blisters? She has been in the Northern California area her entire life.

There is definitely some water entering the bilge. I suspect stuffing box, since after about a 45 minute motor the other day, we ran the bilge pump for about 30 seconds before water stopped coming out. I have been hearing about gate valves at the through hulls and how they all should be replaced immediately. Input on this?

The toilet mechanism is a mystery to me. There are two modes: dry and flush. In either mode, when you crank the handle, the head pumps out a through hull below the water line. Does 'dry' mode just mean no incoming sea water to help with the flush?

I'm interested in how to winterize the boat. Is there a way to drain the seawater from the heat exchanger? What fuel stabilizer would be a good choice?

I'm planning to do a haul out soon, and was going to clean, inspect, and paint the bottom, change the zincs, perform a cutlass bearing swap if necessary, and I particularly wanted to inspect the rudder post for any wear or deterioration. Any info regarding rudder post maintenance, service intervals, etc. would be invaluable.

Thanks so much in advance and can't wait to get this project underway and up to speed for some cruising!

Regards,

Joe S
Berkeley CA

Boat Pics:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/1i8fw8mo2ig1qcj/AAC-1xEIq8NBpQH7qetyoFPaa?dl=0

Gate Valves

Congratulations and welcome to the forum! About the gate valves, yes those can fail easily in the marine environment, replace them when you haul the boat out. Also check the thru-hulls they are attached to. Many posts on here how to replace thru hulls with proper backing plates and new ball valves. Here is another resource on that subject: https://marinehowto.com/ scroll to the bottom for several articles on thru hulls and seacocks. Check all the hoses attached to the thru hulls they are often well past their life expectancy.

As for the rudder, when the boat is hauled out grab it and wiggle it around a bit, if it's really loose you may consider replacing the bearing material. There may be a rudder stuffing box that is leaking into the bilge as well, so check that out and replace the packing if needed.

Also, it's easier to search for something on this site using google rather than the internal search engine (for example enter search term "thru hulls site:ericsonyachts.org"

Good luck with the project!

Send pictures. It's easier to visualize what you have.

Welcome to the Ericson Sailing World

Nice Boat... Ericson often upsides their boat lengths... For Example... My E 29 is actually 28.6'.

As to the Gate Valves... I change my out a few years ago. One Fail (in the closed position) so I change them all. It took me about 2 hours per-valve as some where just hard to reach. I put in Proper Ball Valve style sea cocks from Defended Marine.

As to Blisters... A Blister on a 70s Ericson is rare. It was not untill the 80s, when a fire retardant was added to the resin that blister began to appear is large numbers.

As to winterizing your diesel.
Warm it up and then change the oil.
I live is snow country, so I run the pink antifreeze into raw water intake hose. until it displeases all the water in the engine and exhaust.

I also drain my water system and run the pink anti freeze into the pump and hoses.

As to the head... I pump it dry, the pump the pink stuff into and fill the head.

enjoy
Rick+

Misc. Observations

Nice boat, and I would guess that it is indeed an early Ericson 35 Mk2.
Some engine pix will help to ID it. It was probably installed later, as the A-4 gas engine was likely put in when the boat was built.

The toilet is a Raritan PH2 head. One of the better ones on the market. EY installed this model head in our boat when built, and it's been totally reliable.
The designation of "dry" refers to rotating the knurled knob to allow you to "dry out" the bowl while pumping out the last of the water. This is after you have thoroughly emptied the bowed and exit hose of waste (either overboard or into your holding tank). A manual can be d/l from the 'net for this device.
I recall seeing that model with both a "mid" engine location and also an aft engine location over its long production life.

Looks like the boat has been used as a home rather than a sailboat. No reason you cannot gradually restore the interior (appliances) for use away from shore power.

Welcome to the site!

I saw the boat on CL

Looks like a clean boat for a 1970. If it has deferred maintenance like thru hulls, rigging, etc., it will require some time and money, and it may be worth bringing it up to reliable, safe condition.

I'd suggest making sure the chainplates aren't leaking and the bulkheads have no serious rot before tearing into other big projects. Same for the integrity of the standing rigging. Nothing will ruin your sailing experience like the rig coming down. Sailing in the SF Bay much of the year means big wind. You want to be able to enjoy your boat with confidence.

I had some play in my rudder, and so I installed some plastic shimstock from McMasters. It's held up fine for six years.