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Work to do while hauled

Geoff W.

Makes Up For It With Enthusiasm
Blogs Author
Hi folks,

I'm bringing my boat up to get hauled tomorrow and it'll be on the hard for a couple weeks while they strip and re-epoxy/paint the bottom. I'm trying to think of other tasks I could get done while I'm up there. I think this will basically be my "annual maintenance haul" and is my first one as the new owner, so I could use some advice.

Right now the full trip looks like:

- strip to gelcoat / blister inspect
- new epoxy / bottom paint
- install dripless shaft seal
- get all cushions cleaned by upholstery shop
- straighten bow pulpit
- oil / fuel filter change
- zincs / etc
- thru hull inspection

What else could I / should I do while it's up on the hard?
 

Frank Langer

1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
Hi Geoff, you'll probably get lots of suggestions, but one that comes to mind immediately is that it's easier to polish and wax the hull below the rub rail when the boat is out of the water than when you have to lean over the dock to reach down to the waterline. It's also easier to run electrical cord up the ladder or scaffolding than to have it dangling around the water, if you use an electric polisher.
Frank
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
I had a boot top stripe repainted in Awlgrip and was pleased with the result. They can also be raised, if the bottom paint no longer goes high enough on the topsides.
 

Frank Langer

1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
My boat has an exhaust elbow on the hose just before it goes through the transom. If yours does too, check it in case it's corroded and needs replacement--much easier to do on the hard without worrying about water intrusion.
If your boat doesn't have a raw water filter/screen on the intake, now would be a good time to add one to the intake hose. Or to replace one that's become crazed and hard to see through.
Propellers can become unbalanced from hitting a log, or maybe just over time. Removing it and having it checked at a local propeller shop can reduce vibration and ensure all is well.
Frank
 

toddster

Curator of Broken Parts
Blogs Author
Hmm... I have the feeling that in two weeks, you'll generate a nice list of things to address "next time." Especially if you have to send away for any parts! Maybe also take a close look at the integrity of the rubrail. And don't be surprised if one or more of these seemingly small things escalates. My cutless bearing job ended up requiring replacement of everything from the prop to the engine!
BTW: I recently made another blindingly obvious discovery. When working on the topsides, on the hard, a flatbed truck makes an extremely convenient mobile scaffold. Far better than moving a ladder over and over. Maybe even a pickup truck would work. Now if only I had left enough room to pull the truck all around the boat when I parked it...
 

Kenneth K

1985 32-3, Puget Sound
Blogs Author
Geoff, check all your backing plates and Forespar valves along with thru-hulls. Work all the valves thoroughly--if any are unusually stiff or sticky, consider replacing. Also, maybe buy some Mar-Lube to lube the "water" side of the ball valves using a small utility brush.

20161014_202459.3.jpg 20170920_110539.4.jpg

While all my backing plates were sound, the factory "off-white-ish" coating on some of them was pretty thin--I could see bare wood through the coating. When water gets in this compartment under the galley, some of it stays trapped behind the backing plates. I didn't want the wood plates getting wet so I coated everything with caulk (bright white in the photo) to keep the wood dry. Also, most would recommend getting rid of any PVC fittings used near thru-hulls (first vs second photo).

Most people fret about the hull-to-keel joint being uneven or showing some unevenness or splitting. Usually this is just cosmetic and addressed with some filler/sealer or just a few extra coats of paint (unless you see water seeping out from it).

32 (2).jpg
Keel joint at my first haulout

You might also consider painting small "locating" arrows on your bootstripe, above where the thru-hulls are grouped. This makes it much easier to locate them during a dive if need be (ie, all my "dives" have been me holding my breath underwater for as long as I can).

20161007_135131.2.jpg
 
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bgary

Advanced Beginner
Blogs Author
Oh, random thought, before I forget: the Everett yard travel-lift operator will expect *you* to know where the slings should go.

I found it useful to have a printout of this drawing with me:

e32-3 profile.jpg

The front sling should basically go right under the dorade vent in front of the mast

The aft sling should be pretty much at the aft end of the cabin-top.

Bruce
 

bigd14

Contributing Partner
Blogs Author
I agree with Toddster that your list may expand (it always does!). Here are some items to consider too:

Check keel joint for cracking/leaking/weeping/movement and tighten keel nuts (while keel joint is in compression- may want to remove and inspect nuts and washers if any are at all rusty)
Sand strut to bare metal and assess condition (e.g. dezincification, wobble, or damage)
Check prop condition (dezincification, blade damage)
Remove prop and lap fit prop and shaft as per Maine Sail's recommendations https://marinehowto.com/lap-fitting-a-propeller/

Good luck!
 

toddster

Curator of Broken Parts
Blogs Author
Another “obvious” one that I tend to forget. Systematically photograph everything! Especially in states of disassembly. E.g. old battle scars might be revealed beneath the bottom paint. A year or two later, you might be thinking, “Hmm, how exactly did that thing go together?” And you can just open the files for a look.
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Another “obvious” one that I tend to forget. Systematically photograph everything! Especially in states of disassembly. E.g. old battle scars might be revealed beneath the bottom paint. A year or two later, you might be thinking, “Hmm, how exactly did that thing go together?” And you can just open the files for a look.

Great Idea!
While it's out, measure the prop diameter. Measure the distance from strut to prop and write it down. Photos will certainly be of help once it's floating again and you remember to wonder about something under there......
:rolleyes:
 

Geoff W.

Makes Up For It With Enthusiasm
Blogs Author
Thanks all! I'm excited to be able to get some otherwise undoable work done the next couple weeks. Pulling into Everett marina tonight I saw a good reminder of why I'm here -- the bottom paint is flaking off all the way to the waterline now!!

Noticed a couple troubling leaks on the way up, though... The fun never ends :). It was an absolutely perfect sail and beautiful sunset, but now I'm off topic. I'll report back with the good stuff later
 

Geoff W.

Makes Up For It With Enthusiasm
Blogs Author
Maybe also take a close look at the integrity of the rubrail.

Can you say more about this, Todd? I see the rail looks to be bulging in a few spots, can post pictures later. I'm concerned this could be a place for water to get in.
 

toddster

Curator of Broken Parts
Blogs Author
Can you say more about this, Todd? I see the rail looks to be bulging in a few spots, can post pictures later. I'm concerned this could be a place for water to get in.

We've discussed the hull-deck joint a lot - it's sealed up tight. But the rubrail is attached with wood screws just screwed into the outside lips of the joint as left from construction. On some boats, the screws go all the way through and you can feel their points penetrating on the inside. These can potentially leak. But those tapered screws also don't "bite" very well and with time the fiberglass "lips" get brittle and the screws get loose. The whole rubrail can become loose.

Actually, the rail might be easier to deal with at the dock, when it's at a more reasonable height. I did it from a ladder.
 
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Geoff W.

Makes Up For It With Enthusiasm
Blogs Author
IMG_20181207_151052.jpg

Just sailed the boat back home from Everett today after having its work done. As usual, it ended up being more expensive / extensive than I HOPED but not more than I realistically expected.

Total work order looked like:

- Strip bottom to gelcoat, inspect blisters
- Three coats of epoxy barrier
- Two coats of Sharkskin bottom paint
- New dripless shaft installation
- Bevelled / re-glassed the seam between keel/hull (and attempt to crank on bolts, bolts seemed tight)
- Crack at the bottom of the rudder was discovered, so that got dried out and re-glassed. According to the shop, it weighed almost 80lbs when they took it off and now weighs 20lbs again.
- Some intermediate portlight leak repair, but this is a project I would like to take on myself, and more extensively. I think this will have to wait until spring.
- Oil/fuel filter change
- Inspected thru hulls (fine)
- Inspected rub rail (fine)

So, there goes the last of my mentally budgeted "purchase-adjacent" project money. Now I will look to do more work myself, feeling that the foundation of the boat is more "mine" than before, and some of my "nervous new boat owner syndrome" is assuaged. Though now my anxiety can latch onto the ways seeping moisture + condensation can damage the wood panelling around the portlights...
 

Frank Langer

1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
Geoff,
Most of us know that gut reaction when we see the marina yard bill, but that's part of boat ownership. Looks like you got alot of work done and some important problems dealt with.
Over time you can learn more about how to do repairs and maintenance yourself so it's not quite so expensive.
Nice to see that your boat is back in the water again!
Frank
 

Parrothead

Member III
The longer you put off the portlight leak repair, the greater the deterioration of the aluminum frame. At some point the aluminum rot will be far enough along to make a successful repair impossible. Even if you choose not to do a full repair at this time it would be in your best interest to stop the water from coming in by any means as soon as possible.
 
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